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  1. #1
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    Improved 770 Stand (DIY)

    Looking at the standard 770 stand there's room for improvement.

    Having previously dealt with a drain pan on a band saw, noted that a flat bottom pan doesn't drain very well. The coolant just sits there and causes problems. So no flat bottom for better drainage.

    Next the 770 machine is asymmetrical, the X motor hangs off to the left. But the stand is symmetrical. So the stand is consequently wider than necessary.

    Lastly the pan is too close to the front of the machine, I've read where people can't use their vise handle and have to substitute a ratchet because of inadequate clearance.

    This new design will have the 4 pieces of tubing that go through the pan welded to the pan. The only holes in the pan will be the drain and the 4 machine mount bolt holes.

    The entire pan bottom will slope except for the drain itself. The front of the stand base is 6" back from the front of the pan so you can stand closer to the machine.

    The base will have 1" sq diagonals and be enclosed with thin sheet with a door on the front and removable plywood floor. Hockey puck pads on the bottom. Also plan on a plexi enclosure.

    Making the stand asymmetrically matching to the machine saves 6" in width and also allows for a little more clearance on each end.

    Design is work in progress, modeled in SW. Colors for viewing clarity only.

    Gray-- .075 cold rolled sheet steel

    Green-- soft urethane

    Yellow-- .125 wall steel tubing

    Blue-- 770 base
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 01-FRONT-VIEW.JPG   02-FULL-STAND.JPG   03-BOTTOM-VIEW.JPG   04-STAND-PAN.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Would you mind posting dimensions?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnyac View Post
    Would you mind posting dimensions?

    Not until it's finalized, I just found a significant mistake and it's too late to correct tonight. Plus I don't have complete dims of the 770 since purchase is a few weeks away, so I'm assuming the basic dims on the Tormach pdf are close enough.

    The clear sheet will be 1/8" acrylic with the inside having an abrasion resistant coating. The back sheet will be a more economical opaque plastic.

    The corners and bottom edge of the enclosure will all be standard aluminum extrusions. The enclosure will be easy to quickly break down with removable pin fasteners. The doors will have an alum extrusion on the bottom with a lip that fits inside the pan so coolant can't run out. To open the doors they will slide up until the lip clears then pivot open.

    Est material cost $350-$400, the most costly part being the abrasion resistant acrylic.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DRAIN.JPG   OPEN-DOOR.JPG   CLOSE-DOOR.JPG  

  4. #4
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    If you're going to be running coolant, you should consider making doors that don't open out - they will drip coolant and chips on the floor, and you.

    Regards,
    Ray L.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by HimyKabibble View Post
    If you're going to be running coolant, you should consider making doors that don't open out - they will drip coolant and chips on the floor, and you.

    Regards,
    Ray L.
    +1, been there, done that.

    You also might want to consider a less-angled slope of the bottom.
    Or have a perforated (maybe expanded metal) mini wall to block circular parts that have been cut off from rolling down into the coolant pan.

  6. #6
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    ""If you're going to be running coolant, you should consider making doors that don't open out - they will drip coolant and chips on the floor, and you.""

    thanks for the heads up. This is going to be tricky because there's not much room for inward or sliding. Maybe some kind of trough system will work.


    ""to block circular parts that have been cut off from rolling down into the coolant pan.""

    The drain has a grate. I need to look at some pro machines to maybe get some ideas, haven't really seen the details of these systems.

  7. #7
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    Be sure to plan for an eventual 4th axis. On the 1100, the old 4th axis had a stepper motor that would stick out when the machine was homed. If the 770 has the same problem, then you'll need to redesign your enclosure to allow clearance.

    Where are you getting your aluminum extrusions? I've been thinking about a similar enclosure, and haven't found a good source for the metal yet.

    Frederic

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXFred View Post

    Where are you getting your aluminum extrusions? I've been thinking about a similar enclosure, and haven't found a good source for the metal yet.

    Frederic
    The H channel is HERE

    The corner channel is HERE

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXFred View Post
    Be sure to plan for an eventual 4th axis. On the 1100, the old 4th axis had a stepper motor that would stick out when the machine was homed. If the 770 has the same problem, then you'll need to redesign your enclosure to allow clearance.
    Looks like I need more room for the 4th axis. This is where I may need some more accurate measurements from someone who has this setup. At this point I'm sort of just guessing from the pics.

    Also a detail pic of the drain
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ROTOR-TABLE.JPG   DRAIN-2.JPG   pcnc700_4jawchuck_lrg.jpg  

  10. #10
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    My 4th axis (8") for a 1100 series I measures approx. 12.5" from the centerline of the chuck to the end of the motor housing.
    It's not on the mill at present.
    Maybe someone with a 770 can get "on-machine" measurements for you.

  11. #11
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    The clearance for the 4th axis motor was achieved by moving the pan forward without any depth increase. There was extra room in the back.

    I increased the base width and depth. Since it's dims are still smaller than the pan it doesn't increase the overall footprint. Two things were achieved, first to allow a standard pallet jack with 27" width to fit under the front. Second to make the stand more stable without needing floor anchors. I want to install this in an unused bedroom and don't want holes in the floor. The wooden DIY stand from Tormach has a wider base. The standard supplied metal base is narrow and would probably require anchoring, especially in an earthquake zone.

    The hockey puck feet have adjustable height of about 2", to be able to raise for the pallet jack clearance and just if someone wants the machine a little higher.

    To try to keep costs down thinking that the sides of the enclosure can be more economical opaque plastic, the top should still remain clear for lighting.

    Was thinking about moving the main elec control box to outside or recessed in the outer wall of the enclosure but there's no room and it would be too much trouble extending wires. Maybe just put another kill switch on the outside somewhere.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CLEARANCE.JPG   WIDE-BASE.JPG  

  12. #12
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    Have gone as far as possible without having a 770 to directly measure.

    Weights

    Base and Pan 210 lbs.

    Upper Enclosure 65 lbs.

    Total 275 lbs.

    To alleviate the coolant dripping and chip problem when opening the doors going to try a gutter/ drip rail on the inside bottom edge of the doors. It slopes to the sides from center and drains back into the pan even when the doors are open. Looks good in theory but it's one of those things that's going to have to be tested.

    The other alternative is sliding doors which only allow an opening half the width of the front overall width, which seems sort of restrictive.

    The base could be set up with or without paneling.

    OA width 56" (6" narrower than stock stand)

    OA height 78"

    OA depth 37" (43" counting Y motor) (3" more than stock to fit vise handle)

    Base footing dims

    Width 33" (7" wider than stock)

    Depth 35" (1" deeper than stock)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BASE.JPG   TROUGH-2.JPG   TROUGH-3.JPG   TROUGH.JPG  

    NO-PANEL.JPG   COMPLETE.JPG  

  13. #13
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    Maybe you can do sliding doors on a track where the door goes into the cabinet. Something like the doors to a TV cabinet. You might need split doors to pull this off though.

    bob

  14. #14
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    why make the width of the support table smaller then the width of the drain pan?

    I know that is how the stock Tormach base is designed, but seems like a waste of space. Should tuck some extra cabinets or shelves to the left and right of the base.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowbare View Post
    Maybe you can do sliding doors on a track where the door goes into the cabinet. Something like the doors to a TV cabinet. You might need split doors to pull this off though.

    bob

    I think I know what you're talking about. Google indicates it's called a "pocket door" but looking at the pics it swings out then slides into the side. If you could make something like you say, 2 piece that slides sideways and then back that might work.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmarks11 View Post
    why make the width of the support table smaller then the width of the drain pan?

    I know that is how the stock Tormach base is designed, but seems like a waste of space. Should tuck some extra cabinets or shelves to the left and right of the base.
    The 770 base is very narrow. The stand has to have structure going straight down from there. It would probably look better as it does look a little unbalanced with the larger upper enclosure.

  17. #17
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    I built my own stand for my 770 as well. Been using the mill for 6 months, now starting to work on the coolant/chip tray model so I can build soon.

    Your stand/enclosure looks very nice. I do wish my stand was wider for more storage underneath. Mine is 27" wide by 35" deep.

    Would you be willing to share your model of the 770 mill? I would be glad to confirm dimensions for you.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 770 Setup.jpg  

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by stateih View Post
    I built my own stand for my 770 as well. Been using the mill for 6 months, now starting to work on the coolant/chip tray model so I can build soon.

    Your stand/enclosure looks very nice. I do wish my stand was wider for more storage underneath. Mine is 27" wide by 35" deep.

    Would you be willing to share your model of the 770 mill? I would be glad to confirm dimensions for you.
    Due to popular demand I'm going to model another version with more width underneath. But I'm still going to have about 6" setback. I think this is necessary for good footing, your feet stay underneath your CG so you are not leaning over as much when setting things up.

    I like your idea of the shelf on the side for keyboard and monitor. I'm also doing something like this but maybe a small desk. Now that I've positioned this version enclosure in the model of the bedroom it's clear that the side opening doors are in the way. Back to the drawing board, thinking a bifold door that opens up and over.

    The 770 model is not good enough to give out yet, far too much guesswork at this point. I'm ordering my 770 tomorrow so will update the model when it gets here.

    There is one measurement I could use now to keep making progress on this and that is from the front of the motor enclosure to the back of the column. (the redline dimension in this jpg). From you or whoever else has the time. Thanks.

    (edit) one more dim that would really be helpful from anyone that has a 770 4th axis would be from the front of the 4th axis motor to the front of the base with the Y all the way out. I'm not getting a 4th axis right away and it would be nice to know this is accurate.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dims.jpg  

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by stateih View Post
    I do wish my stand was wider for more storage underneath.
    Another thing to consider is that it doesn't have to be enclosed storage space underneath to be usable. There are things that better stored right on the floor, like a wheeled canister vacuum for instance.

  20. #20
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    The red line dimension from the back of the electronics cabinet to front of motor cover is 23". The column angles towards the front giving a slightly shorter dimension, if you look at the left side view in the "Mill & Stand" drawing.

    Sorry I don't have a 4th axis yet either to measure that.

    I think a door that slides up would be good, just have to design it for enough room for tool changes.

    My keyboard and monitor stand is just an old electronics rack with two shelves I made for it.

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