Best way to connect driver alarm to pathpilot

I will replace drivers and motors on my lathe with new ones.

They have alarm output that I would like to use to stop the lathe if a motor stall.

What would be the best way to do it.

I can program the drive output to act as a NO or NC switch

Thanks, Jeff

That depends on the output of the motor. Is it an open drain? Open source? Active-high? Active-low?
How you hook them up (and perhaps convert them) depends on the specifics of the output.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jwatte

That depends on the output of the motor. Is it an open drain? Open source? Active-high? Active-low?
How you hook them up (and perhaps convert them) depends on the specifics of the output.

---

I am pretty sure it works like an on/off switch.

Alarm output are pins 7 and 8

The easiest way then might be to get the external E-stop kit, and re-wire it to use a relay to your motor connectors.

It looks like active-closed optocouplers, so you can wire all the motor outputs in parallel (+ to + and - to -) and any one that goes "on" would make the estop go "on."

https://tormach.com/e-stop-interface-kit-30785.html

Even if you don't buy their hardware, you will get some useful information from their installation instructions.

Get a DPDT relay with a 5V or 12V or 24V coil (24V may be better, as it will draw less current) and contacts rated for 240V/20A. Pull +24V (or what you choose) from the power supply in the mill, to the "+" of your ganged alarm outputs, to the coil of the relay, to ground. Wire the Estop addition as appropriate (see the instructions) to your relay.

Note that this would be an "active stop" relay -- when the relay power fails, it defaults to "no stop," which is probably good enough for what you want to do. If you want a "fail open" mode, you would have the invert the outputs so they are "normally closed" and flip the relay wiring appropriately.

Also, there's no current rating on the output optocoupler specification. If the relay coils want more current than the couplers are rated for, you'd need to either use a solid state relay instead (always a good option for reliability) or a driver circuit for the relay so the relay can drive the estop. A right pain, that. But, in theory, the electronics are simple and straightforward.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jwatte

The easiest way then might be to get the external E-stop kit, and re-wire it to use a relay to your motor connectors.

It looks like active-closed optocouplers, so you can wire all the motor outputs in parallel (+ to + and - to -) and any one that goes "on" would make the estop go "on."

https://tormach.com/e-stop-interface-kit-30785.html

Even if you don't buy their hardware, you will get some useful information from their installation instructions.

Get a DPDT relay with a 5V or 12V or 24V coil (24V may be better, as it will draw less current) and contacts rated for 240V/20A. Pull +24V (or what you choose) from the power supply in the mill, to the "+" of your ganged alarm outputs, to the coil of the relay, to ground. Wire the Estop addition as appropriate (see the instructions) to your relay.

Note that this would be an "active stop" relay -- when the relay power fails, it defaults to "no stop," which is probably good enough for what you want to do. If you want a "fail open" mode, you would have the invert the outputs so they are "normally closed" and flip the relay wiring appropriately.

Also, there's no current rating on the output optocoupler specification. If the relay coils want more current than the couplers are rated for, you'd need to either use a solid state relay instead (always a good option for reliability) or a driver circuit for the relay so the relay can drive the estop. A right pain, that. But, in theory, the electronics are simple and straightforward.

---

I Will try with a solid-state relay, I have a ton of them.

I still have to finish installing the X axis motor and program the drive. Z axis works great. I had to figure out how to connect the motor brake, not a lot of info
about these drives. I wanted the drive to control the brake.

Thanks for the info, really appreciated, Jeff