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A stiff Shapeoko as a starter
I spend way too much time, and take pilgrim steps quite often. So my first CNC router for furniture making with particle boards is supposedly some kind of a stiff Shapeoko.
Size: I dimension my stuff by pallet fractions. The final router shall not be bigger than 1200x800mm (as a German I am metric). I want to clamp pieces with a size of a quarter pallet == 600x400mm. This is the first iteration, I want to go longer (I have 2 makerslides in the length of almost 3000mm that I will save until I decide on my biggest furniture piece.)
I have access to a metal workshop with skilled welders; I just learned how to program the Heidenhain 145-controlled CNC mill with CamBam (500x500mx300mm milling space, 2500 RPM (old machine)).
I have "purchase power" there, including a reasonably priced laser-cut supplier.
Software, not craftsmanship is my forte.
So here is my first draft of a table-top frame (vocabulary?) with the following design consideration:
- I can always make another one ;)
- the "long-axis" is the support for the makerslide. Reduction of welding seams as much as possible.
- To not have to draw milling paths for future CNC-router dimensions again this frame "already" consists of 80x80 tube, thickness tbd -- but why not 5mm... Gives me material to mill a support for the makerslide into. I somehow HOPE that I can clamp the frame to said CNC mill to "plane" and level the frame with this groove -- IF the frame is twisted (I should be able to check it on one of those "precision welder tables")
- holes drilled into the "long-axis-tube" give access to the makerslide v-nut profile to screw makerslide and tube together
- I have 3 Pololu stepper motor drivers and a FabScan shield The Media Computing Group : FabScan Arduino Shield . But am willing to invest later.
- three Nema17 stepper motors are also at hand
- an Arduino with grbl is what I want to start with
- to start with the Shapeoko belt drive seems easy to set up.
Because I only have access to said workshop on weekends I can only "sketch up" my thoughts for now. On the workshop SpaceClaim, BricsCAD and "Tenado Metall" is used.
I really only want to get going with all this. I will worry about speed later. To only use the router for 80% foam models and 20% "furniture drilling" would be sufficient for me for let's say one year. I rather want end switches and a tool length "database" than nicer software. As an endurance sports buff I think long-term: In three or four years I want to build a weekend retreat (am otherwise nomadic in my professional life). I want to educate myself to be capable of doing all interieur work (additionally to the domotics stuff that I am _really_ looking forward to).
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Re: A stiff Shapeoko as a starter
I am running under way too much steam at the moment so I will postpone the redesign until a later time. Until then I will follow-through with the "stiff Shapeoko" idea.
But the gantry will change soon afterwards, I think.
I really want a cupboard-board-sized router, but right now don't want ti commit building one (pilgrim steps, that is me).
I was in the workshop 16h yesterday to experiment with the base-"table" metalwork.
An Arduino with grbl is already turning three small stepper motors.
Because the mill "only" does an 500*500 work envelope I had to reposition the 80*80*5 tubes. It worked out allright, there was about 1/10mm that the gauge jumped. This is at the better end of the tolerances in this workshop.
Until about midnight I made a first test pattern for the 4 holes at each end, will continue in this morning.
I tapped two DIN 427 "screws" and "pocketed" two holes for M10 screws. Was a bit off but that can be corrected.
Well, I am off to the workshop. Feel a bit "driven". *g*
The base frame feels stiff enough for a potential 2,07m * 800mm work area. Let's see how the accuracy will work out.
As a software guy who only recently got into the "world of things" some experiments with parametric design algorithms and a (crude) workflow into CAD/CAM were promising! :)
And I really need to come up with an idea for a 30degree clamp to use that cool dovetail software developed by forum membar JerryBurks.
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Re: A stiff Shapeoko as a starter
The saw is quite accurate, but I did not dare to measure from both ends of the tubes.
The mill with its work envelope of ~500x500 cannot reach both ends of x and y axis-tubes. So I made a guide from a 8mm steel "plate": With the same hole configuration and additional pockets at 250, 500 and 750mm distance down the axis. The workshop has a CNC probe tool with a 10mm ball, that's why I used a 8mm plate.
With that guide I could easily reset my zero position down the "long axis".
I milled the holes/pockets for the "head" of the DIN 427 thingies: They measured 7,88mm and I milled 7,9mm counterpart-holes. On one tube I got impatient and drilled additionally with a 8mm bit. Now one corner is a bit "wiggly" *grr* Next time I am going to be more patient with the press-fitting connections!
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Re: A stiff Shapeoko as a starter
Then I marked and drilled various holes for mounting the Makerslide profiles.
There is no M4/M5 threaded rod around, I need to buy some next week to use small pieces as a guide/marker for the t-nuts.
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Re: A stiff Shapeoko as a starter
And finally I put some screws into the whole frame, to get a feeling for the stiffness. I am quite pleased so far, it is the first thing I built and I like the "look&feel" of it.
I did not fully screw the tube with the press-fitting holes together, not sure how hard it will be to take it apart. But already now I have some _solid_, *SOLID* foundation to build on!
It is bigger than I pictured it. Let's see how the 800mm gantry will perform with the double makerslide.
I am not sure how precise the 80x80 tubes are. I noticed quite some fluctuation in the z-axis on the mill, not sure how 1/10mm here or there will affect the final router. But it is too early to make a prediction or measure the frame.
(I cleaned the vise thoroughfully, but sometimes I had to reset the z-axis when milling the holes. Really not sure where those fluctuations come from!)
Now I feel a bit flat, I still have a full week off from work. Quite some parts will arrive monday or tuesday, so I unsure what to do next. I might just spend tomorrow with software and make me some crazy "hello world" gcode file. I am still positive that I will have the router up and running at the end of next week.
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Re: A stiff Shapeoko as a starter
Because I did not have a source for the POM leadscrew I had to make my own. In the workshop they had a piece with a diameter of 45mm and 150mm length.
I was somehow under the impression that the leadscrew was fastened with screws and nuts. BUT after I drilled the two 5mm holes I realized that these were supposed to be tapped! *ouch*
So I rammed another 9mm bit in and created a "pocket" for M5 nuts.
Re: A stiff Shapeoko as a starter
This is only the first machine I am building. The last days were such a lot of fun! I already looked at designs of hot wire cutters and such.
Well, this build will have run into problems soon -- I believe. Everything went so smotth so far, it cannot remain like that!?!
Probably I have warped frame and the z-axis is going to be screwed up (or down)…
And the stepper motors with their default configuration are not turning constantly but one is "stammering".
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Re: A stiff Shapeoko as a starter
I upgraded the z-axis carriage to something where I should be able to attach a proper screw to, not the M8 rod I am going to start with.
And I made a spindle holder for the Kress Spindel that clamps at the verz bottom of the spindle.
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Re: A stiff Shapeoko as a starter
Haha, I have "upgraded" myself to about 3mm of z-axis travel: See first picture.
Solution: I will make tool holder with more space. This is the quickest solution, pending a "z-axis redesign" (I already have a kind of an ACME screw, I believe our european system is different and it is translated literally "trapezoidal-thread spindle".)
But I have no good idea for a design and I don't feel like quickly googling for one.
I have 80mmx10 aluminum and 120x10 and 40x40, all of it in sufficient quantities.
That's why the spindle holder looks as it does, I had to put the radius somewhere in the 40mm workpiece.
Or does anybody have a link to some design that will work with a profile-rail, screw and a NEMA17 w/ 0.44 Nm?
I will upgrade the stepper motor anyways, but I'd like to get a quick working version this weekend.