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I have an older treadmill that works fine that my wife no longer wants. I am going to get rid of the treadmill this weekend, but figured I would remove the motor to possibly use on my g0602 at some point to save money.
What parts do I want to strip out? Is it only the motor, or do I pull speed any of the electronics out as well?
It depends on the type of drive signal the board gets, in some it is PWM so you may use it in some instances, the alternative is to use a KB/Baldor type drive, and sell the drive board on Ebay.
Before using the motor, check to see if it is the uni-directional type, usually says on the label.
You will also need to press the flywheel off the motor if it has.
Al.
Al, Thanks! I will hopefully tear it down today and I will see what I have. This is helpful.Quote:
Originally Posted by Al_The_Man
Treadmill motors generally run the wrong direction for a lathe. They usually are brushed DC and run either direction, better in the preferred direction.
I used the motor and inductor from the treadmill and an Ebay 7000 watt $24-28 controller and 50A full ware bridge for my drill press. The preferred direction is correct for a drill press.Don
There is only a couple of types that are uni-directional, most are bi-directional.
Switching the DC motor power swaps direction.
Al.
@Al_The_Man,
I mounted my treadmill motor upside down to get the rotational direction needed. That was recommended to me somewhere along the swapping out process some years back. So I had to use the smaller end of the treadmill where the fan normally is located. The second treadmill's shaft broke yesterday at the same location as the first, right at the shoulder where the fan shaft (7mm) steps up to 10mm. Clean break both times.
From what you've stated I could have used the larger end all along by just swapping the wires. I didn't do this to begin with because I'd read that the brushes need to be offset slightly on the commutator in order to be bi-directional motors.
I'm thinking about abandoning the whole DC motor setup and going with a VFD and AC motor. The problem with that is since this is for the X2, the motor size would be pretty overwhelming. I've got a 2.25 hp continuous duty DC that's much much smaller than a 1.5 hp AC motor. I just can't see strapping a 56 lb motor up there.
The label on my latest motor doesn't differentiate between CCW or CW. I just assumed I had to invert the orientation.
Another issue I've had is the quick starting of the DC motor; it slams on and the KBLC-19PM doesn't have a ACCEL pot to adjust it down. Not sure if that's what ultimately caused the tiny shaft to break but I suppose that could be the reason. I only applied enough pressure to tighten the belt so it wouldn't slip.
You should have a min speed pot on most KB's?
Most of the T.M. motors are labeled CW or CCW because of the threaded flywheel.
But if this is the sole reason, the dir can be swapped by changing the motor power leads.
Many of the KB's have the slow start option similar to a T.M., IOW if you apply power, the motor won't run unless the pot is taken to zero first.
Al.
It does have a min & max pot but the accel pot is not there. According to other manufacturers the accel pot should be adjusted to control the ramp up time. I'm using Mach 3 to start the spindle so when it sees the M3 S??? It slams on. Ger21 @ the Mach forum is suppose to be writing a macro for me to use as a replacement code for the start (some % change rpm over a set time, I think)
Sometimes they do come with a fan or spot for a fan and call them uni-directional motors because otherwise the fan would not cool the motor. In some cases, you may be able to swap the fan around, but I found some same size plastic fans on Ebay and used those instead. Took a little modifying, but worked okay. They didn't have the smooth outer ring on those fans though like the original, so really need a shroud built to keep fingers out. Mine was in an enclosure already though.
Other times it is indeed the brush design that will only let the motor turn in one direction correctly.
Lots of different types.
Good point. I already have a 110v fan with flex ducting in place. I didn't want to rely on a slow spindle speed to keep the motor cooled. This way I can leave the fan running after the spindle has stopped and continue the cool down. It also doesn't matter how fast or how slow the motor turns it always has a constant amount of air passing through regardless of the direction of the motor.
I have used quite a number of T.M. motors and never yet found one with offset brushes, which is usually an indication of uni-directional motor, most have had however a threaded shaft, which has mainly pointed to the reason for uni-direction, you always should remove the flywheel anyway when using as a spindle.
Many of the motors have been closed frame so there is no cooling fan.
But if fitting one, you want the fan rpm to be maintained regardless of motor voltage.
Al.
This is the type I used on my 80/20 mill.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...8&d=1197394629
I used a similar one for my lathe. These are really just DC motors and though they were marketed as treadmill motors on Ebay, I doubt that is what they were really for. No place for a flywheel. They did, however have extra long shafts initially, so maybe the flywheel on them were keyed.
Nice looking motor, there are some high end ones you can come across made by Baldor or Leeson etc for the T.M. market.Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeWay
Although, I have been buying some fairly high quality ones made in China for one of the larger T.M. manuf's they compare close with Leeson.
Al.
I've been on my lathe today turning out a coupler that will let me use the same pulley I've been using all along for the belt drive. Now I'm wondering if you all make a new pulley that fits for each TM motor you use.
The larger end is a little over 5/8" in diameter so I've got to make a step down coupler to fit. I'm trying tokeep the tolerance spot on so I don't get a skewing when I tighten the grub screws.
Any better ideas or am I going about this wrong?
I eventually switched from that belt drive kit to a timing belt configuration. There was simply too much belt slipping on the belt drive with the higher power motor.
I had to modify the timing gears I bought to fit, but took care of that on the lathe. What you are doing sounds okay. Should work fine.