New to me 2005 4896

THANKS FOR ANY HELP - and not flaming me. New to CNC routers as well as ShopSabre. Bought a used 4896 and was told by seller that SHopSabre gives lifetime support but now found out - just to original owner. Bummer for me. Working step by step to get up and running. Photo attached. Could someone please tell me what type of boards should be used here? The "machine" (?) board was not attached and the spoiler board is simply sitting on top. Can someone tell me what to buy for the bottom ("machine"?) board and how to attach it? What size? Thanks for any help!

sorry about photo being upside down - was right side up before import

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Amer28

THANKS FOR ANY HELP - and not flaming me. New to CNC routers as well as ShopSabre. Bought a used 4896 and was told by seller that SHopSabre gives lifetime support but now found out - just to original owner. Bummer for me. Working step by step to get up and running. Photo attached. Could someone please tell me what type of boards should be used here? The "machine" (?) board was not attached and the spoiler board is simply sitting on top. Can someone tell me what to buy for the bottom ("machine"?) board and how to attach it? What size? Thanks for any help!

---

Good morning, we will ALWAYS help with basic support - it's the SabreNation package that is for original user but it can be transferred to the new ownership if you purchase that. Our SabreNation package includes a lot of advanced support features.
That said, if you want to give us a call we will always try to assist by phone on setup and operational questions.

You can reach out to our Support Team and let them know Brandon told you to call or ask for Brandon directly and he will get you over to the correct people from the team.

Happy to get you started :)

- ShopSabre CNC

Hi Amer,
Look I have been replacing spoilboards tens of times in the last 16 years of manufacturing propellers on my 2006 SHOPSABRE.
NOWw, how NOT to stuff up your basic frame with thousands of holes drilled into the frame,
1) For every rectabgle you take a piece of hard wood and make 4 pieces. Each one should fit well in the rectangle of the frame - on the inside. The wood should be about 40mm thick by 60mm wide.
2) Now, drill two holes in each piece of wood - more or less at the 1/4 length away from the tip.
3) take double sided tape and tape each piece in the square. Let each piece stick out about 5 mm above the frame.
So standing back and looking at the frame you will have a pieces of wood inside each rectangle, stuck there by double sided tape and each piece has 2 holes. Now you take your trusty drill and drill through the side of the frame. through the holes in the wood.
4) I just used metal screws to drill through the wood into the frame.
5) Standing back - you should see all the rectangles withe wood pieces, fixed to the table and all sticking out 5mm above the frame.
6) now insert a wide are end mill into the spindle and surface the wookd to a 1mm level above the frame of the table.
7) Standing baqck you should have level sections of wood all inside the frame, sticking out 1mm above the frame.
6) Now you put on the MDF board, . Take a chalk line and chalk out the center line of the wood in the y -axis as well as the x axis
8) Stepping back you should see your spoilboard, laying flat on the wood inserts. The board should have perfect chalk marks cris crossing.
9 At each cross you now drill out a small crater 6mm deep. Then drill a hole in exch crater into the wood at the bottom.
10) Now crew in a 35 or 40 mm wood screw into each hole into the wood. The head of the screw should be 3 to 4mm lower than the top of the MDF.

I hope you understand what I wrote here... I am 69 and afrikaans speaking so my use of english is so-so.
This way, you can replace spoilboards for a looonnng time - until the wood is so full of holes on the top that they need to be replace. I used metal screws ( you know, the type they use on HANGAR frames or large metal sheeting structures.
The screw has a 6 sided head for ease of tightening and has a drill bit shaped tip. I also put in wide area shaped washer so that the metal screws do not dissappear into the wood when tightening up.

I do not know how to post pictures and to not see a ATTACHMENT button.
SO: This should take 1 or 2 days depending on how accurate you want the spoilboard line up.
Looking athe table from top down you should see a) a spoilboard with lots of small holes at each chalcked cross section then b) the screwss in their little craters 4 mm below the surface of the spoilboard, then c) the wood frames inside each rectangle of the board, firmly held in place by VERY strong metal screws.
Dont play with small metal screws. Do a good, strong, clean, WELL MEASURED, job and yor frame will last (MINE = 16 years, and 28000 hours, cutting propellers from 10 inches up to 4 meters. and my accuracy is 0,3mm soooo
Keep well and if you have ANY problem with the 48 96, just ask and I shall help. ok?
Kind regards
Piet de Necker