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just wondering if anyone would have, or know where to get the dimention for cutter bodies.
to be exact im looking for a drawing for a Sandvik R390.
im not sure if im supposed to ask or not, cant find anything on the net so i guess that its not somthing that they want lots of people to know.
any help would be good.
ps, sorry if im not supposed to ask
I don't see a problem with it- the dimensions etc are on their official web site :)
see the following link (page 3 I think) for dimensions etc.
http://www2.coromant.sandvik.com/cor...ch/173-178.pdf
i would like to make a 50mm sandvik R390,
really just looking for details on the insert seat.
i could understand why they wouldnt want people to make their own, i have no intentions of selling them or anything. just that we machine alot of very hard/high tensile materials and this particular cutter has almost become an expendable item, even though its the best one for the job.
dont know if its true or not, but i have heard that tooling company's sell cutter bodies for almost zero profit, making all the money on the inserts... anyone know if this is true?
thanks for the link though
Sort of like a Gillette razor?
dont intend to be rude,but?
if you cant figure this out ,then
youre next question would be
why dont my homemade seats work
Bear
Are you looking for specifics on the pocket construction?
This info is only on the manufacturing prints and these prints are proprietary.
There are standard methods for pocket construction and some patented layouts.
You will sometimes find differences in pockets when buying the same cutters depending on who made the cutters. (they job a lot of this out)
Why not just measure one of your existing cutters and copy it?
Some tips:
Screw downs - offset the screw hole .003-.004 towards each wall to pull the insert back into the pocket. Screws are normally a 60 degree (special) head for ISO hole inserts. Standard hole tolerance in the insert is .006 TIR.
Pocket walls are typically 1 degree less than the insert to insure that the insert seats on the top of the wall. (an 11 degree insert pocket is cut with a 10 degree endmill).
Insert must not touch the wall at the bottom because there will be a small rad left by the endmill. Walls are often undercut when finishing the pocket floor. Some inserts have a small chamfer on the bottom to give this clearance and to provide dirt relief.
Negative insert walls are often cut with a 1/2 degree backtaper endmill.
NL pins are even more fun (36 degree cones with a special offset dependent on size), CLP (or tilt pins) are a real PITA.
Yes cutter bodys are often sold at or below cost (sometimes given away for free). I often tell people it's like the Pez candy dispensers. The dispenser is free but we're going to get you on the candy. :)
Bob