Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehuckss396
Awesome! Is this with the cylinder heads on or off?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehuckss396
Awesome! Is this with the cylinder heads on or off?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dynosor
Off
You do everything you can to make sure the assembly fits and works well but sometimes (most times) you rotate and there is a sticky spot here or there. Putting it in the lathe and spinning the assembly works out the kinks and frees up the little burrs.
Did you do any NDT's "Magnaflux" and "Dye Penetrant" your parts to make sure they will stand up to the load once the motor is fired up. Just a precaution so as you wont destroy all of your hard work. Its way more easy to find a crack that will grow under load and make a new part than to make a whole new motor.
Good Luck~!:cheers:
This is way beyond anything I am capable of doing, but damn, I enjoyed following along up to this point very much! I am looking forward to seeing this progress to completed.
Love it!
-Ray
Quote:
Originally Posted by Perfect Circle
Nope!!
What speed do you run the lathe and how do you mount the engine?Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehuckss396
Quote:
Originally Posted by dynosor
I put the crankshaft into a collet and hold the block in my hand. I run the lathe at it's slowest speed.
Hi guy's!
Made some progress on a few things today. I'm trying to get everything ready so the next time the crankshaft comes out, I will have everything ready to put it back in for the last time. I made a couple more collets to hold gears for modification. I made one for the idler gears and this one to modify the crankshaft gear.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1421s.jpg
Turned the hub down to the correct thickness. This will put the correct distance between the gear and the bearing.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1418s.jpg
Then the OD was modified to work with the bearing. The bore was opened up to a press fit onto the crankshaft. This finished up the crank gear.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1419s.jpg
I also made one for the idler gears. The idler just needed the hub removed. I also made the idler mounts. Only one of the idler gears is needed but I wanted to make mine like a Pete Jackson gear drive so i'm going to run 2 idlers.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1433s.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1435s.jpg
After that I made my fixture for heat treating my rings. This fixture is made the George Trimble way. I included the fixture in the drawings but it is only good for 5/8 rings.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1423s.jpg
Turned and bored the cast iron for the rings. Finished with 180, 320, and then 600 grit paper. Real happy with the finish and hit my number inside of .0002.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1429s.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1427s.jpg
Loaded 27 rings into the fixture and they are ready for some heat.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1431s.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevehuckss396
How do you create the break in the rings and at what temperature do you reshape them? How much larger do you make the ring OD after "baking" than liner ID?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dynosor
I use a small set of wire cutters to "crack" the rings.
I make the ring as close to the bore size as I can but NEVER go under. This set was .0002 or less bigger than the bore.
I apply a powder that protects against scale and then bake them at 1100F for 4 hours.
How do you find the diameter of the piston ring groove?
9/10 of the piston diameter or something like that?
I suppose you can go higher with bigger pistons since the ring is more springy when it's larger?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adaware
There was an old magazine called "Strictly I.C." that covered nothing but model engine related topics. In some of the earliest editions there was an article by a guy named George Trimble. He did a mountian of testing to come up with a way to make rings. His method is not the easiest but it is one of the best for making rings. He covered how to design the rings for a given bore. He also tells how to design the fixture to heat treat the rings.
The back issues are still available. If you are going to do more than this engine, you should get the 3 back issues and read, read, read.
DESIGN & FABRICATION OF PISTON RINGS, by the late George Trimble. The EPITOME of miniature engine ring manufacture. Issues # 7,8 & 9 … $8.00 ea. ….. TOTAL: $24.00 http://www.strictlyic.com/pit01.htm
Well the rings are in the furnace for 4 hours so I made a couple blanks for my camshafts. I cut the drill rod to length and center drilled the blanks. Then I couldn't figure out how I was going to turn them. Couldn't put the lathe dog on and do the piece so i turned the first OD because it was .250 and I was able to put it in the lathe using a collet.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1441s.jpg
Turned all my OD's starting at the tailstock and worked my way back to the collet.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1436s.jpg
This cam will be the same as the V4 and the blown cam will have a little more race in it.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1439s.jpg
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1442s.jpg
Started on the fixture to turn the cam. Decided I was done for the weekend.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1445s.jpg
The rings have cooled. I had to boil them to remove the anti-scale powder. I made them .001 thicker than needed so I will polish them with some 600 grit before installing them onto the pistons.
http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/x.../DSCN1447s.jpg
Why have photos disappeared....???
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejets
Photobucket is down, has been for a few days. When they resolve there issues all the photos will be restored.
No pictures makes me a saaaad Nick:(:(
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3rnieball
Me three! Photobucket is still down. I don't plan to do much but if you come to names, here is what you will see.
Still a long way to go.
And just like that, photobucket is back up and running!!:)
Steve,
Do you flame harden your cams..??
I assume that "drill rod" you refer to is the same as we call silver steel here.