Ethernet UC300ETH.
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Ethernet UC300ETH.
Finally got my stepper power supply, so I could test the AM882's I got from Ebay.
I'm only using two steppers, on this machine, for the two Z axes. I already had a 570oz motor from my previous Y axis servobelt mockup, so I decided to just get another one and use those for the Z's.
The motors are the 5amp versions. With 2.5mH inductance, Gecko's formula says to use a 50V power supply. But I went a little higher, and went with the Antek 400w PS-4N58, at 58V and 7 amps.
I probably could have gone with a 300w supply, but it's $5 price difference.
The voltage actually measured about 62V, but I didn't check with the motor running.
I got the drives on Ebay for about $80 each. I then saw them for $58, and bought two more for spares.
Some members here say they are fakes, and I was a little concerned. But I'm not so sure that these aren't legitimate Leadshine drives.
I ordered the tuning cable from American Motion Tech, and a USB to serial converter.
RS232 Cable for Tuning Leadshine Stepper/Servo Drive
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The converter automatically installed it's drivers in Windows 10, and worked fine.
I set the dip switches for software configuration, and used Leadshines ProTuner software to configure the drive.
I set the current at 4.75 amps, and originally set the microstepping at 10. After playing with it a bit, I eventually set the microstepping to 32. With my 2 turns/inch screws, this will still give me up to 900ipm, at the drives limit of 200Khz.
I don't think it'll actually go that fast, so 300-400IPM is probably more realistic.
I set the current limiting to 35%, which still gives me about 200oz-in of torque when the axis aren't moving. I had it on for about an hour this morning, and it was only a little warm after that, with it running for maybe 10-15 minutes of that time.
I was a little concerned about heat, due to the higher voltage, but I don't think that it will be an issue.
I also spun it up to 1500rpm, and it was nice and smooth. When I tried to go 2000, the drive faulted. I'll probably disable the stall detection feature, as I don't anticipate my Z axis stalling. You have to re-power the drives to get them out of their fault, so If I do use it, I'll need to put a contactor in front of the power supply so I can turn it on and off without resetting the entire system.
Here's a video I made this morning:
https://youtu.be/8dGwyM5Pyt8
OK, so I connected the analog control wires back up, and tried with a few different capacitors. I started with 10uF, and it wasn't much better. 22uF was better, but still not good enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by OlfCNC
33uF was even better. It seems to now be about ±200RPM. The higher the RPM, the better. While it still goes up and down, it's not nearly as noticeable, and if you weren't looking at the VFD< you might not notice it at all.
I think that if I use two of the 33uF, it should be very good.
So, apparently noise is the issue, but it's easily remedied.
I'm undecided if I will eventually use analog, or Dan's plugin. While the plugin is definitely more precise, I don't think that it would be a noticeable difference.
If I use the plugin, I'll probably use a PCI serial card, rather than the USB adapter.
If this drive is the same as mine, I doubt it is a fake.
The behavior you describe is the same as I can observe on mine.
I ran a one hour job last week and the temperature I measured on the AM882 controlled stepper was 2-3 celsius higher than ambient temp. I'm measured 43v though, not as high as you but are running yours.
I really don't know how Leadshine do to achieve that; this is a pretty amazing drive.
Yeah, especially for $58
Sold my MB2 breakout board, and replaced it with a new UB1 breakout motherboard from CNC Room.
I also bought a DMM Dyn4 servo drive and motor, and promptly blew the drive when I powered it up. I've been really busy the last few weeks, but will be sending it in for repair this week.
Looks like I may need a transformer to lower the voltage from my 240V line. DMM recommends adding a reactor. If I have any more problems when I get it back, I'll probably switch to Leadshine servos.
In the meantime, here's a little something I was working on. I picked up some new spindle connectors for my air cooled spindles, Amphenol Eco Mates. Unfortunately, they are much too big to fit on the flimsy plastic top caps. So I made my own from some 1" aluminum blocks. I added a threaded boss on the inside to connect the ground wire to, as these air cooled spindles don't have an easy place to connect one.
Unfortunately, when I was about to do the final chamfer on the second one, Mach3 decided to destroy my only 90° bit. Then my frustration led me to drive a different bit right through the cap, so I need to make another one. Here's the first one, though.
Last picture shows the original plastic cap next to the new one.
Another year, another design change. :)
To simplify things, I'm going to be going with helical rack and pinion for the X and Y axis. I'll be ordering the racks and pinions in a month or two from Automation Overstock.
I'll be using 10:1 gearboxes with the 400w servos. There are some really inexpensive gearboxes from China on Ebay, so I bought one to check out. Just got it, and it looks and feels really nice, for about $125.
I've been waiting sooooooo long to see this machine run. LOL.
I guess I can't complain. It took me three years to get my KMB1 running and I started with the full structural machine. LOL.
I wish i can see Z2 running in my life :P
I can't say much - still trying to get a cnc built. In the meantime - I borrowed one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Khalid
Gerry - great progress. I like that you are making use of apple ply - I am using it now as well.
Unfortunately, life seems to always get in the way. I ordered the helical rack and pinion 6 months ago, and haven't even opened the box yet.
I've also redesigned the entire Z axis carriage, to accommodate the Y axis R&P.
Still need two more servos, but am out of money at the moment :) I have the gearboxes, though. So the two servos are the last major components I need. I have everything else.
Everything but time.....
Gerry - what's the make and model of the relay you are using for the spindles?
Do you mean the contactor? It's a Fuji, from Automation Direct. 3HP, I think, with a 24V DC coil.
(I'm not home right now)
Jer21, are you concerned with the wood frame warping or shrinking/expanding with moisture and giving your linear rails fits??
No. Most of the parts are made up of laminations, which are much more stable than solid wood. The long frame rails are 3 layers of 3/4" plywood, and will be sealed with epoxy before being painted.
My current plan is make the main table an 8" thick torsion box made from 3/4" baltic birch. I'm going to paint the sheets before cutting them so they'll be sealed inside and out. It will be CNC cut and assembled on a vacuum table to make it perfectly flat. The frame rails will be bolted to the torsion box table, keeping them parallel and straight.
If you look back earlier, the gantry beam is made up of 1/4" MDF laminated into 1" panels, then assembled into an 8"x8" torsion box. There's no way it can warp. See post #99.
All wood on this project will be sealed with epoxy prior to painting, so any expansion /contraction will be minimal, and shouldn't really have any effect.
If all goes as planned, in two weeks I'll be building my 4x8 torsion box table. Top and bottom skins will be 1/2" baltic birch.
Perimeter and 4ft ribs will be 3/4" baltic birch. 8ft ribs will be 1/2" baltic birch.
I'll be placing T nuts inside for mounting the legs and side rails.
I need to make space in the garage quickly.
Looks good gerry - What epoxy are you using for sealing? Peter
I use US Composites epoxy. Decent quality, and very reasonable pricing. It wouldn't be my choice for high quality composites, but for working with wood, it's great. I always have a gallon on hand, along with various fillers.
Gerry, I want to see you finish this! been watching it since you started the thread!
What he said:DQuote:
Originally Posted by nlancaster