Just ordered the last melon (Torus)

I have a Drewtronics probe and an older style Tormach Passive probe. The first probe I had was a WildHorse probe.The Tormach probe worked great for a long time, but Mach had a habit of not stopping when the probe activated and it crashed the Tormach probe quite a number of times as a result. I've rebuilt it many times. It is still usable and I keep it around as a backup. Tormach doesn't sell parts for this probe, once it's beyond repair that is it.

I think the important part of a touch probe really is the ease of adjustment and the stability of the adjustment, and of course repeatability. Both the Tormach and the Drewtronics took some getting used to in their adjustment. The WildHorse probe I found to be so unstable that I had to adjust it basically before every use. Once the other two were in good adjustment they stay pretty good assuming no crashes. I haven't tried one of the new Tormach touch probes, but since you can't even buy the one I have anymore, I won't go into detail on it's adjustment. For the Drewtronics unit, it used four set screws. It's a fairly straightforward process, but the set screws use a bit of a course thread, and getting that last lit bit can be a challenge. The last time I calibrated it I was able to get it down to less .00025" runout. It's remained very stable at that. I can probe and run Side B on a part and generally get a very close match with no witness marks. Luckily UCCNC solved my probe crashing issues, it always stops when it should. So I haven't had to rebuild the Drewtronics probe. It sounds like Drew sells parts though, good to know.

I have the non TTS Drewtronics, I simply didn't have TTS at the time of purchase. Now that I have TTS I kind of wish I had the TTS version, but I'm not inclined to let the probe rattle around on the tool carousel anyways. So the only thing the TTS setup gains is that it shortens the probe over the use of an ER20 TTS collet like I am doing now.

I have looked at other probes, the new Tormach passive probe looks good, as does this Kurkesu unit;
https://tormach.com/passive-probe-probe-only-50355.html
https://www.kurokesu.com/shop/TPA2

As it stands, the Drewtronics probe is very affordable and is working as well as the Tormach probe ever did, but it's also cheaper and apparently rebuildable. I'd say that kind of speaks for itself.

Also, if you get into doing a lot of probing check out the ProbeIt plugin for UCCNC. I purchased it a while back (I think it's ungodly cheap, like $20 or something). The plugin provides a probe calibration, a large number of setup operations for setting up work offsets as well as produce DXF outputs for probing parts. I can't seem to get my head around the built in UCCNC probing, the language in the manual is lost on me, but the ProbeIt plugin was intuitive right off the bat. I know others have had better luck with the built in probing though.

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Originally Posted by CL_MotoTech

The WildHorse probe I found to be so unstable that I had to adjust it basically before every use.

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I was going to ask about the Wildhorse probe. Now I know. Plus it looked like it was a kit that would need to be assembled.

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As it stands, the Drewtronics probe is very affordable and is working as well as the Tormach probe ever did, but it's also cheaper and apparently rebuildable. I'd say that kind of speaks for itself.

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Another vote for the Drewtronics !

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...check out the ProbeIt plugin for UCCNC. I purchased it a while back (I think it's ungodly cheap, like $20 or something).

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I had not realized that the ProbeIt version for UCCNC was so new - it looks like It just came out earlier in 2020. ProbeIt is actually $30, but I found that you can get it for $15 if you buy this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Touch-Probe...93fe%7Ciid%3A1

Attachment 446258


The CraftyCNC probe is $135 with free shipping. I’m not thrilled about the tiny 1/4” shank.

You mentioned how the Drewtronics can be a bit tricky to calibrate. How does it compare to the CraftyCNC probe calibration shown in this video?


https://youtu.be/tUT_wSqD0o8

I've seen nothing but good reviews for the drewtronics and I seriously considered buying one . Instead , I bought a passive probe this past spring for my 440's and I'm really happy with that unit . I've adjusted it once and it's still holding true .
When I home the y axis they tend to be off some , I created a routine so I can put in a part after homing , press cycle start and then probe the y . It was easy enough to edge find every time but seconds probing vs minutes edge finding is kind of nice

I should point out that I occasionally check the calibration of my Drewtronics probe using a 123 or a 246 block. So far so good.

I think I maybe got the ProbeIt plugin when it was on sale (I used it when it was in testing for a while then when it went on sale and bought it immediately), nevertheless, I'd pay $30, and I'd even pay $100 for it. It just works.

I can't speak for Eric's probe. I've not used one. The adjustment looks similar to many probes, I just think getting any probe really nicely adjusted takes some patience and some practice. You're working with such small amounts of adjustment to get that last little bit takes some time, at least for me. Eric seems to be quite good at it.

Anyways, get something that is in your price range, and within your work tolerance.

Another point on probe adjustment. Make sure you put the probe in the exact same position every time you put it in the spindle. Put a dot or something on the spindle and make sure it is in the exact same alignment every time you use the probe. My spindle has .0005 of runout so that would make a difference if I put the probe in 180 degrees out from where it was calibrated.

I just received a package from Copperas Cove, Texas.


Attachment 446556


Drewtronics shipped this fast. I ordered Thursday afternoon after they had closed in Texas. Andrew got this in the mail on Friday and here I have it on Monday. Wow.

The probe came with a connector and cable that is all of 10” long. Obviously I am going to have to add wire to extend the length. Then I have to figure out whether I have to connect to the UC300ETH motion control board or to the Novakon breakout board.

This is going to be great. Using edge finders gets old fast.

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Originally Posted by Titaniumboy

The probe came with a connector and cable that is all of 10” long. Obviously I am going to have to add wire to extend the length. Then I have to figure out whether I have to connect to the UC300ETH motion control board or to the Novakon breakout board

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Ok, this may be simpler than I first thought. I was under the impression I would need to supply control voltage and install a current limiting resistor.

But I think all I need to do is connect the Drewtronics probe to the external terminal block on the Novakon BOB. Black probe wire to GND and red probe wire to unused input pin 15.

It will take longer longer to figure out how to do these connections in a sanitary and workmanlike manner. My first thought is to mount a female receptacle on the exterior of the mill head and wire it to the Novakon BOB. And then a curly cord to connect between that new female receptacle and the probe.

And if I install a female receptacle on the mill head, then that short 10” cable from Drewtronics will be just about the right length.


Changing subjects to the coolant system. I found out, like everybody else, that the Novakon coolant pump moves a lot of fluid. I also found out, like everybody else, that the single drain is wholly inadequate. I can run the pump for only 3 minutes or so before the pump starts sucking in air because the drain can’t keep up.

I want to add more drains eventually, but as a quick and dirty fix I am going to add a ball valve so I can throttle down the coolant flow until the drain can handle it. I lost the factory plastic ball valve that came with the fake Chinese LocLine when I replaced it with real LocLine.

The reason that you only get a short cable is that Drewtronics has no idea what length of cable or terminations you will use. It makes sense to make a cable for you. I made my cable with twisted pair and shielded teflon insulated aircraft wire. I have miles of the stuff so cost was not a factor. I connected my probe to the acorn board (one of the inputs) I removed my novakon breakout board during the upgrade process. Keep in mind you will probably want to make the probe detachable. Mine is set up so that when it is plugged in the spindle is locked off. I drilled a hole in the control cabinet for the switch. Now that I think about it my mill has a probe receptacle at the head but I did not use it.

I think the current limiting resistor is built in to the probes. If you have a question ask Andrew. I asked him a few questions and he was very responsive.

For your coolant you should be able to buy a ball valve at any local hardware store in the plumbing section. I have a Torus pro with the new type of stand. The drain is huge and even 5 pumps could not generate enough flow to over flow it.

I've got the old stand and have the same issue with coolant . I'm planning to take a cutoff disk to the bottom of the drain and open it right up . Directly below will be a bucket/tote with a removable screen box where the coolant will drain into and catch any chips , then the bucket will have a tube at mid point to drain back into the tank . Reason for mid point is that any chip that gets through the screen will hopefully drop to the bottom of the bucket rather than go into the tank

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Originally Posted by upnorth

I have a Torus pro with the new type of stand. The drain is huge and even 5 pumps could not generate enough flow to over flow it.

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That new style stand sounds really nice. I really have to get the coolant issue sorted before I can run any serious milling sessions. Having the pump outrun the drain causes the pump to start sucking air and that creates bubbles which in turn makes the draining even slower. I’ll be getting a ball valve soon.

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Originally Posted by metalmayhem

I've got the old stand and have the same issue with coolant . I'm planning to take a cutoff disk to the bottom of the drain and open it right up . Directly below will be a bucket/tote with a removable screen box where the coolant will drain into and catch any chips , then the bucket will have a tube at mid point to drain back into the tank . Reason for mid point is that any chip that gets through the screen will hopefully drop to the bottom of the bucket rather than go into the tank.

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How are you currently handling the coolant issues? Definitely show us pictures once you get around to the coolant upgrades you are planning.

I’m dismayed and sorry to hear about your coupler issues in the other thread. It sounds like it has been a pain in the butt when you’re trying to get production out the door. Are you at liberty to say what kind of things you are machining?

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Made some more progress on getting the Drewtronics probe installed. I hacked together some temporary wiring and terminated to pin 15 and GND on the Novakon BOB external terminals. Then in UCCNC Configuration I/O Setup I set the Probe Pin to 15 and the Probe Port to 2. The Active Low box was checked.

Wonders of wonders, the probe LED lights when the probe is barely touched. And in the UCCNC Diagnostics screen I can see that pin 15 on Port 2 goes from green to dark on the I/O Monitor. Also the Probe box goes from dark to green in the I/O Function Monitor when the probe is touched.

I went to the UCCNC Tools Probe screen, but a message there informed me that I had to enable the Probing plug-in. On the UCCNC Configurations General screen there is a button labeled “Configure Plugins”. I enabled the Probe plug-in and had to restart UCCNC. Once restarted, the UCCNC Probe screen was ready to go.

I haven’t actually put the Drewtronics probe in the spindle yet.

I spent a little time reading the Probe Screen documentation and it looks like the UCCNC Probing routines are not really routines at all and you are expected to do a whole bunch of manual steps to do a Probing cycle.

Do I have that right? If yes, then somebody went to a lot of work to make some nice looking probing screens, but then neglected to do any actual probing?!? I can see why people are buying ProbeIt from CraftyCNC.

I can't comment exactly on your probing set up because I'm using a different control. There is a little manual work required on mine. For example to find a corner first I have to jog to near the corner. Then pick the orientation of the corner and roughly how big it is. Then I have to manually select each axis and then set it to zero. Sounds like a bit of work but its far better (and faster) than using an edge finder. Then I have to select the Z axis. That one will zero automatically. Don't forget to calibrate the tip diameter of your probe before you use it. Calibration measures the difference between the actual diameter of your probe and the movement to activate it electrically after contact. If you don't do this all measurements will be off.

To probe fully automatically with my probe requires a macro. I currently have only basic ones but I have been told more complicated ones will be available soon. Then I will be able to jog close to the corner and tell the probe to find it. It will do so and then automatically set the zero points.

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Originally Posted by Titaniumboy

How are you currently handling the coolant issues? Definitely show us pictures once you get around to the coolant upgrades you are planning.

I’m dismayed and sorry to hear about your coupler issues in the other thread. It sounds like it has been a pain in the butt when you’re trying to get production out the door. .

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Ya getting parts was a bummer but the deed is done and the mill will keep running . Hopefully John will eventually get the business running again
I only run the coolant at around 1/2 of what it can . I have fine screens inside the drain and a sink screen which rests on top to catch chips . Otherwise too many chips get into the tank and clog the system . What I plan to do isn't going to be streamline or pretty but it will be functional
I also bought a huge tray from uline which sits under the 1/2 of the machine and catches the over flow over when things go south . My plan was to have a local shop build me a better stand which I could properly get my pallet jack under , but I've never got around to that

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Originally Posted by upnorth

To probe fully automatically with my probe requires a macro. I currently have only basic ones but I have been told more complicated ones will be available soon. Then I will be able to jog close to the corner and tell the probe to find it. It will do so and then automatically set the zero points.

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This sounds similar to what my understanding is of the UCCNC probing screen. I am presently looking at the videos of ProbeIt for UCCNC that was released earlier this year to see if there is more functionality there. CL_MotoTech is way ahead of me on probing with his G0704, and he is using both the Drewtronics and ProbeIt.

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Originally Posted by metalmayhem

I only run the coolant at around 1/2 of what it can . I have fine screens inside the drain and a sink screen which rests on top to catch chips . Otherwise too many chips get into the tank and clog the system.

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Any pics? My drain is so small I don’t see how I would put in a screen.

I can post a pic later , it doesnt seem the forum will let me post a pic from my phone

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Originally Posted by upnorth

As for a pendant I have a Vista CNC P1A-S pendant. It works with Mach 3 or UCCNC and a few others. Unfortunately it does not work with a Centroid acorn. I really don't need it anymore so if you want a deal on a pendant send me a P2P.

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Back on July 11 upnorth posted the above offer.

Guess what just arrived in the mail !!:banana:


Attachment 446668


Thanks upnorth. I haven’t hooked it up yet, but the pendant arrived undamaged and looks great.

heres the pic I promised . I thought this was standard on the old stands , and as you'll see there is a whole lot of silicone happening on my mill


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Metalmayhem,

Thanks for the picture on your Torus Pro. This is what I am dealing with on the Torus/NM-145 stand.

Small drain located at the right rear of the mill.
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I don’t know why but this pic got rotated 90 degrees CCW. The hose on the “bottom” is the pump discharge and the hose on “top” is the drain hose.
Attachment 446702

Man I thought mine was bad , I think I'd take a hole saw to that and fit a sink drain or something

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Originally Posted by Titaniumboy

Back on July 11 upnorth posted the above offer.

Guess what just arrived in the mail !!:banana:


Attachment 446668


Thanks upnorth. I haven’t hooked it up yet, but the pendant arrived undamaged and looks great.

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You are welcome I'm glad to see its going to get used. It always worked well and I would have kept it if was compatible with my Acorn controller. It will make jogging a lot easier for you.