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Like most I do not have a lot of tools. I was fortunate enough this summer to happen across a large delta drill press, 10 inch band saw, and a larger table saw (all for an great price). With these additions, my workshop/garage just got smaller.
Gerry, you are correct about the crosscutting sled. I built one for my smaller table saw and it makes all the difference in the world.
Chuck
Have the files ready to cut a pine pbox tomorrow. If it tears out I'll get photos.
14" Aztec is done other than clear coat.
That one looks better than any of mine made on my big machine. I haven't cut one on the smaller machine other than the 6" one I put on a P box. It can make one up to 27" though. I ought to make a larger one and see how the hammered gold looks on it.
Who here knows how to read a Python command structure Usage: list?
Yesterday I located a midi file that I wanted to convert to play on the CNC machine. I downloaded and installed Python 2.7 and the latest version of mid2cnc.py and started reading. The Readme file for mid2cnc.py isn't clear to a non-programmer like me as to how to read the syntax instructions but I think I still want to continue with it and learn how to do the conversions.
On the MakerBot site is additional info about it relative to those machines. I tried the Imperial March and Iron Man files on my smaller machine last evening and they play ok other than some buzzes and rattles from the machine mechanics.
During searches this morning I found the gcode file that I wanted to create on a site that I had looked at last evening. :banana: No matter, I still want to proceed. :) (Glutton for punishment and all that.)
Update: The file is set up for 2000 pulses per inch, and my machine is 4000 ppi, so, it plays but doesn't run at the correct speed. This is why I wanted to know how to use the correct syntax to generate or change the gcode files.
A midi file that you want to play on your CNC eh...
I have been programming in C & VB for years, a quick look at the python code makes me think of C. I guess my question is why would you want to do this?
Because people with CNC machines are natural born geeks? ;)
I agree with you there Arbo, Good luck on the musical CNC C1 :)
To continue on with the surface planning with the CNC discussion, I'm looking at getting 2 of these bits to plane my stock. Magnate
Any comments?
Because I'm a geek. It isn't enough to know how, but also to know why. :)
Most of the work is done by Python and the mid2cnc.py script. If I get the syntax of the command correct the script file should spit out a filename.gcode text file. I already know that Mach3 can load and run it if I rename it to filename.txt.
I'll keep looking for more info. All it takes is one missing, out of place, or wrong character and the Python command parser gives a syntax error.
Try setting your FRO to 50%Quote:
Update: The file is set up for 2000 pulses per inch, and my machine is 4000 ppi, so, it plays but doesn't run at the correct speed.
I have three files that came from the site that provided the mid2cnc.py converter script. Those files are running very slow. Slowing them down isn't going to help. FRO does change it though. I need to increase the PPI setting in the gcode to match my hardware PPI setting.Quote:
Originally Posted by ger21
The three midi files that the gcode was created from are also included in the .zip download. Those three files don't run with a midi file player. Not good. Wasting my time messing with those and the gcode files that were made from them. The guy that made the three gcode files says they have not been tested.
I do have a good midi file that I'm trying to convert to gcode. It plays for 8 minutes from a 57kb .mid file in Windows Media Player. I think the Readme file for the mid2CNC script has some incorrect information.
The Python GUI for Windows has a command line parser that highlights a syntax error in red. The regular Python command line interface has no apparent editing and copy/paste functions. Making any change to the command line entry means typing the whole entry over again. It's possible that the GUI is not working right. Oh well, no guarantees.
Hey c1
did you see this thread http://www.cnczone.com/forums/mach_s...cnc_music.html
there might be comething in there you can use.
chuck
Many thanks Chuck!! :)
Homeconstructor - Converter: music → G-code
Boy was that method easy to use. :D That got me the Stairway to Heaven conversion that I was trying to create. It plays great for a little over 8 minutes. (86kb)
Only problem is that my X/A axis lead screws resonate at some frequencies and need dampeners at certain locations outside the operating range of the movements. Holding those places quiets the resonances.
The FRO will go above 100% and that speeds it up enough for the slow files to sound right. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by ger21
Well, I finally updated my 'alignment/clamping' setup. Drilled a pine board so it's held down on the far side as my edge to always go up against, put some brass threaded things near the x0, and drilled a board for that, held down by nylon bolts. that makes my little 'l' shape to reference everything off of. Also made some of those cam clamps. Seems to work quite well. I now realize it would be better to have some sort of bushing in there so it is washer to bearing to washer compression to hold it in place and let the cam clamps rotate freely. But it works, I'll figure all that out later.
Here is a shot of the 'back' of my pine celtic box... just a teaser.
And I re-drew some other wood clamps to fit my 5/16 bolts... crv file attached for anyone interested. Figure can't hurt to have different types available in case they are needed.
Oh, forgot that I have a question... When using that minwax poly, how do you get a smooth finish? Using a foam brush... looked around the internet, some say you need to thin it (with something), some say sand when cured, then polish with rubbing compound and such just like a car.
I'd brush on one or two coats, sand with 320-400grit, remove ALL TRACES of dust, and use a spray can for the final coat.
It's very hard to keep specs of dust out when brushing.
I do essentially as Gerry says but I lightly sand with 320 grit between each coat to knock off the fuzz after the coat is dry. Three coats clear satin poly brushed on with a foam brush, then a slightly heavy final coat of clear satin from a spray can. The brush on poly fills the wood pores at a lower cost than with spray cans only.
I don't do anything to it after last poly is applied, nor do I try to completely fill the pores for a slick surface. I want it to look like real wood, not plastic that looks like wood. (Just a personal preference, ymmv :))
I like the strategically placed knot. Uh, pine knot that is. :D
Like C1, I also prefer using a satin spray. But, I use gloss for the brush on coats, as gloss is slightly harder and sands a little easier than satin. One you sand the gloss, and spray satin over the top, you end up with a slightly harder satin finish.
Be sure to read the can and follow the recoat times. Sometimes, you either need to recoat in a few hours, or wait more than 24 hours before recoating.
Ok, thanks for the advice, that sounds better than rubbing compound and buffing it all out (which sounds crazy).
Yeah, I actually plotted out where the nots where and in that case, drew my design around the knot to emphasize it.
A new project while others dry... a 'lunatics maze'. A cube, with an internal maze, you must flip and turn the cube to get the ball through it.
Using 'slingshot ammo' as the ball, a .30 cal, 5/16" diameter ball. Cut from cheap poplar for the main internal maze, and some nice looking alder for the external pieces. All wood .5 inch thick, using 5.5x36 inch pieces of wood. .25 EM and 60 deg v bit used. The outside pieces are two sided, you can skip the 'decoration' for the outside if you like, or change it, or whatever. I cut the 'decoration' first, then flip it to cut the other side.
More pics after glue dries and I sand away the corners and try to make it look not too bad. ;)
In other news my orbital sander is not longer 'orbital'... just straight spinning disc... something broke, which sucks as it just spins very high speed, makes it hard to hand sand..