Question about Linistepper v2

Hi everyone!
For a long time i try to create the CNC router, for my hobby (r / c models), I made ​​different drivers, but I have not yet managed to put together something that works.
I spent a lot of time reading the posts on this forum and on pminmo, collecting your experiences. I decided that my new drivers to be linistepper. The easiest, cheapest and safest way would be to buy them, but I have quite a good supply of electronic components, so I would still want to do alone, and I enjoy to make things.
I study linistepper for long time and can conclude that I am able to make linistepper driver, but i still need help.
The only thing that interests me, for now, is: Is it enough to create a hex file with MPLAB from ASM file attached to linistepper page, or earlier should be adjusted somewhat in the asm file.
To be clear, I will use the PIC16F628A, if i create a hex file directly from Lini_asm_v21 file, whether it's ok or i need to adjust something in asm file before creating hex file ?

a lot of respect ,
Tomislav

That should be fine. Just set the correct device, PIC16F628A, in MPLAB.

James, thanks for your response, your answer has confirmed my desire to make linistepper.
And big thank to Roman, for sharing his knowledge and information.

Sincerely,
Tomislav

Here is my progress with linistepper.
I used brd from Sam Waters and squize it a little and add few vias.
I also replace crystal with ceramic resonator like on the original schematics.
Board is now 4,5cm x 6,2cm.
Few resistors and switch is missing but i will add them soon. I don't have them now.

http://tvsb.diyplans.org/slike_razno/2.jpg

Any coment are welcome !

nice looking board. Is it DIY or do you have access to some professional equipment.

tomovsb, that looks good! Toner Transfer? One thing I'm a bit concerned about is the power resistors... is there actually room for them? Be sure to leave lots of space for them to cool. E.g. don't solder them in right next to the board and separate them from each other. I may just not be gauging the available space correctly, but they look really close together and small. Also, if you want to drive more than 1 amp, you need to be able to add a second set or find power resistors with less than 1 ohm. Keep us posted?

Thanks, it is toner transfer, top layer is toner transfer too.
I will put power resistor in vertical position and between each other will be about 5-6 mm.
I don't plan to drive motor bigger than 1A, but i will add a place for tuning resistor.

I will post my progress with linistepper here.

Here is pcb
http://tvsb.diyplans.org/slike_razno/lini.png

Ah... I didn't think of standing them up... makes sense.

James, you was right, i've never worked with such a large resistors so now, when i got it, i see that i have a little problem with them, in the reality it is much larger than the eagle drow on the pcb, there is no room for them, even if i put them in vertical position, but i may come up with something.
I will post picture when i finish.
In the meantime, I have deal with the interface board.
This is my DIY PMinMO 4 axis, ( for linistepper ) .
http://tvsb.diyplans.org/slike_razno/5.jpg

You can probably mount those power resistors off the board... I don't think a little extra lead length will make a difference... there will be some power running through those leads so watch out for any data cables running near the wires.... just like you would with motor leads. Shouldn't be much of a problem. Perhaps you can figure out some way to mechanically mount the resistors since the leads will be too long to reliably support them.

You know, GeckoDrive puts the current sense resistors on the motor side of a connector so that the setting "goes" with the motor if you switch motors out. I don't suppose another header would happen to fit in place of those power resistor pads? Then you could call it a feature instead of a bug! LOL...

Yes, but I decided to make a new pcb, and resets the elements.
Now I added pins for tuning resistors.
Thanks for the advice !

http://tvsb.diyplans.org/slike_razno/77.jpg
http://tvsb.diyplans.org/slike_razno/99.jpg

I still didn't get those missing components yet, but i will soon.

Hello everyone,

I'm a little stuck with the job and have less time for the CNC project, but here the situation is coming to an end.
I solder all the elements on linistepper and the interface board is over too.
Now just waiting for my brother to flash pic, and then I start to bother you with questions :-)

I guess I'll need some help about putting drivers in the drive.

Here are some pictures of the progress ...

http://tvsb.diyplans.org/slike_razno/IMG_0029.jpg
http://tvsb.diyplans.org/slike_razno/IMG_0030.jpg
http://tvsb.diyplans.org/slike_razno/IMG_0031.jpg
http://tvsb.diyplans.org/slike_razno/IMG_0032.jpg
http://tvsb.diyplans.org/slike_razno/IMG_0033.jpg

I'm concerned that the small transistors near that one power resistor are gonna get toasty... Longer leads on the power resistors might be needed.

Thanks for the tip, I did not think the power resistor will be so warm, I will extend the wire of power resistor.
I got the pic, so now I can start with the cables. I hope that I will not merge something wrong and that i will not burn something.
I have this schematics from pminmo for connecting driver, power supply and 4 axis interface board so i hope that i can connect it in this way ?
http://tvsb.diyplans.org/slike_razno/wiring.png

I'm not sure why those resistors are in there... doesn't make sense to me. There is a nice block diagram at:
Break Out Board, Logic Power Regulator, Relay Driver, Indicators, Switches, Microchip PIC, LCD Panel, Current and Temp sensors. That shows how our kit's go together.

Thanks James !

I have a question : Is there any way to step motor without connecting driver to pc, to see the driver board is working ?

When i power it up, motor get in hold position ( stay in one position ) and get slightly warm after few minutes, power resistor also get slightly warm, but i can't get motor to turn.
I am using mach3, and i don't know if i mess up something with software setup, so i would like to check driver board without sw ( if that is possible ) !

Best regards,
Tomislav

Hi Tomovsb ,

try this circuit from Geckodrive.com :--

Support


John

That circuit will work, or you can get one of our pulse/test options for our 4 Axis BOB:
piclist.com/techref/io/stepper/linistep/4axis4build.htm

But I would also suggest checking pin 17 of the PIC on the Linistepper to see if you are getting a step pulse from the PC to that pin. Not the trace, or the connector, but the actual PIC pin.

Finally!

My linistepper work, I made a circuit with 74hc14 chip, and the motor is spinning half round every second ( depend in what stepping mode ) all stepping mode are working. Thanks a lot to John for information and a huge thanks to James Newton for all the guidance and selfless assistance.
Now I have to connect the interface board with drivers and try SW.
I will attach pictures of progress.
So many different versions of stepper drivers which have not worked and finally: linistepper is driver that work!!!

I feel a great relief now..

Best regards,
Tomislav

I try the bob and linistepper with kcam and it works like charm.
I am so happy now...
Now i can start with the mechanical part of the project .

LOL. So glad it worked out! Congratulations.

Nice work - I have the kit version from James. Saved me a lot of hassle, but the boards you made are nice too.

Hi there....Im building my linistepper V2 from scratch but Im a little confused about RN1(the resistor network)...this is my question...Is RN1 different from RN2 & RN3?? it seems from the schematic to be a 5 built in resistors with a common (number 1) pin...unlike RN2 & RN3 in which every two successive pins form a separate resistor...if this is true what is its name exactly so i can buy it cause im not an expert or can i use a set of 5 (3k3) resistors with a commomn pin instead??? need your expert help...thanks alot.

Hi Simba77eg

as you have noted RN1 is 5 bussed resistors ,connected to a common terminal

RN2 and RN3 being isolated resistors


does this link help

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/90452.pdf

it shows most variations of the resistor networks available

resistor networks are available in single in line and
dual in line packages

the advantage being ease of assembly , space saving and close matching of the resistors in the network

I can see no reason why you can't use individual resistors in the linistepper circuit


John

Individual resistors will be fine if you are building your own.

We changed to the SIL resistor packs as a service to the user, as they make it much faster and easier to build the Linistepper kit compared to individual resistors, which need colours reading, wire bending, inserting, wire snipping etc etc. :)

Thanks john 100...sorry been away for a while...actually using single resistors is what i did.
I finished building my linis plus the bob, now I am working on programing the PIC, It is my first time and I am having quit a hard time but i want to learn.
i will try to post photos for the finished boards.

Looks nice simba! If you get tired of trying to program them yourself, pre-programmed PIC's are available for a few dollars US.
ecomorder.com/techref/ecomprice.asp?p=416060

Hi,

I made two different versions of linistepper v2 driver. The first was from Murat Shakman and the second from the shematic. Both of them not working.
If I connect the motor (I tried 2 motors) and power (6volts, 0.8Ampere)to the drivers the motor does not "lock" and of course not move.
Also I used the "4 axis BOB" from piclist <dot> com with the same results.
I meassured the voltage of A-, A+, B-, B+ points and give me everyone about 6volts.
I think the problem is at Pic16F628-20IP (it is working on an other project) programming.
What fuses should be used?
Thanks

The settings are listed in the source code: /Techref/io/stepper/linistep/Lini_asm_v21.asm

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James Newton

The settings are listed in the source code: /Techref/io/stepper/linistep/Lini_asm_v21.asm

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Thank you sir.
I didnt set the right settings to the software programmer. Finally I have two working linistepper drivers and I am going to make one more!!!

I knew I shouldn't mess with microcontrollers when I don't know how to program them but now it's too late. I've already built the circuit and I've got the same problem as you... what are those "right settings" ?
What should I change in that asm before compiling ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spasmenokarabi

Thank you sir.
I didnt set the right settings to the software programmer. Finally I have two working linistepper drivers and I am going to make one more!!!

---

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James Newton

That should be fine. Just set the correct device, PIC16F628A, in MPLAB.

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I have try and try but get a lot off errors from mplab, the Lini_asm_v21.asm file is full of bad characters, i have try everything but it do not compile.

here a piece of it, it looks like the download or copy and paste put in bad characters in the file.


Attachment 368594

and here you see strange characters, I can not clean it, it just do not compile and complain, with a new save in utf the errors are less.

downloading the file is also a problem, then there are a lot of bad characters involved and java is there also.

Attachment 368596


so strange, I do resume that the asm file fiust compile normal because the board works, maybe the pc here has trouble, these days internet is not that save,

regards

Copy and paste the text from the page into a text editor (e.g. Notepad), NOT a word processor (e.g. Word) and save it.