Printable View
Has anyone done this?
It seems like a good idea to be able to Cycle start with out using the mouse or hitting Alt+R. Also the E-stop button could be handier. So my solution would be a remote setup similiar the the Jogging pendant.
Anyone done this and or could tell me if it could be done.
Isn't the Tormach cnc Control, just a modified Mach3 screen? If so, I think this would be a very simple pendent.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...05&postcount=7
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71875
.
Well all I want is two switches Cycle Start and E-Stop. Just for when I'm doing tool changes I can easily start the machine. I don't like having to use the mouse and I don't need all the features of a gaming controller. I already have the Shuttle Jog Controller from Tormach. I suppose I could hot wire a mouse into a new housing and replace the switches and have it do what I need.
You need a keyboard encoder, someday when there is time I am going to machine a box with a lid and mount switches in it. Spring return toggles for each axis and all the other common stuff (feed hold, etc.). These sit in-line between the keyboard and the PC and when you push your external switch they generate a keyboard command and send it to the PC. They are usually programmable to whatever command you want, such as "Ctrl-Page Down" for incremental -Z Axis travel.Quote:
Originally Posted by R.DesJardin
http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html
http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/p...s/modules.html
They use these in building PC based Arcade Games.
Looks like the KE-18 would do it for $44.95, unless you had to have a USB keyboard instead of PS2.
http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/c...talogPages.pdf
Those are two really different functions. Cycle start is just a software button on the screen that tells Mach to start interpreting the gcode, and that can be twinned by one of the keyboard wedges that BlueFin mentioned.Quote:
Originally Posted by R.DesJardin
But estop is a physical switch that drops out the main contactor. That can't be done in software. I did add a second estop switch to my machine. It is in series with the switch on the operator panel, so that pressing either switch will stop the machine. It's at line voltage (the 110V control voltage) and I used a true mushroom estop switch (you can buy them pretty reasonably from Automation Direct).
Randy
I have thought about extending one of the axis limit switches to a button on the front of the machine. If I'm testing a program and there is an eminent danger of a crash I normally hit the "E" stop button which could cause the machine to loose position. It seems like it would be better to activate an exis "end of travel" instead.
Or instead of estop do you mean the "Stop (Alt-S)" onscreen button, R.DesJardin? That of course could be twinned by the keyboard wedge. It isn't an estop since it is just a software command (rather than physically cutting machine power), but it also can cause loss of position since it stops the machine motion without controlled deceleration.
Randy
I don't think that activating a limit switch will be any better than alt-S. It stops motion suddenly (no deceleration) and also causes the machine to lose its "referenced" status so anything that depends on machine coordinates (M998 etc.) won't work.Quote:
Originally Posted by saabaero
Randy
Sorry, yes I meant cycle stop(Alt S), which stops all motion, not shut the machine down. Just a simple start stop set up that's easier than using the mouse. Change a tool and bam go. I just don't like having to handle the mouse after a tool change.
All you need to do is wire the switches to inputs on the breakout board and set them up as OEM triggers in Mach's ports and pins.
Gerry, the Tormach, being a proprietary piece of equipment, doesn't have a BOB. You did make me look at the Machine Control Board though. Nothing like available digital input terminals there that I can identify.
Also, "ports and pins" are absent from the interface, unless you sign a waiver with Tormach after which they give you the instructions for accessing the hidden setup parameters.
Which does leave us with a keyboard wedge, or physically splicing into existing switch wiring where available...
Randy
Tormach has Purposly "Crippled" the Mach3 Screen that it sends to keep users from doing custom stuff, above and beyond what the OEM is willing to accept Liability from.
So, If you want to do what you want, then to keep your warrenty, contact Tormach and have them "Add" the inputs you need and perhaps modify the screen to your needs. I can't say that I blame then one single bit for the way they have done thier release model.
BUT, having said that, if YOU are willing to sign a Liablitly release for them (you can contact them to get one). Then you could just download a copy of Machs Screen 3, or Screen 4, to do your screen changes, AND you would also need to do a "Install" of machs latest Dev release, to "restore" the crippled screen back to mach standard.
In mach Standard install, and screens, it is a Non-Issue to do what you want. Again, though, I highly recommend you have Tormach do the changes you want, or sign a liablity release and do it yourself.
scott
Software-wise, sure, Scott. I'm using Mach3 for my home-converted lathe right now. And I've done some tweaking (minor stuff, like axis homing order, etc.) on my "Tor/Mach" installation.Quote:
Originally Posted by PoppaBear10
But that leaves the non-availability of digital input lines on the Tormach Machine Control Board, unless they have radically changed the design since my fall-2006 machine.
BlueFin's suggestion of the keyboard wedge is a good one. All R.DesJardin wants to do is duplicate a couple of keystrokes (alt-R, alt-S) that are already in the Tor/Mach screenset, with auxiliary buttons.
edit: And there are the USB "X-Keys" programmable auxiliary keyboards which I had forgotten about: stick and numberpad formats.
Randy
Aaah, the shoe drops. Second parallel port for the BOB... That could get interesting.
Randy
yeap,
I did add a second BOB on mine........ Bi Direcitonal so 10 inputs extra, plus 5 outputs, and a Modbus controlled PLC..........
BUT, I did do the "Mach Standard" exe.......... and yes, you can do the "Other profile/exe" from Tormach as well with thier blessings......
scott
OK,
Then I should be able to disect a mouse, wire in a couple switches from Radio Shack, put them in a Polycase enclosure and set the buttons to Alt S and Alt R.
As long as it was a 5-button mouse that you could program the two side buttons for alt-R and alt-S.
edit: Something like [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Verbatim-Optical-Desktop-Mouse-programmable/dp/B000RPTT78"]this[/ame] or [ame="http://www.amazon.com/OEM-Microsoft-Intellimouse-5-Button-Optical/dp/B000BSHJYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1236716086&sr =1-1"]this[/ame] or [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Dell-Optical-5-Button-Scroll-MOA8BO/dp/B000ZLTHF8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1236716086&sr =1-7"]this[/ame] would probably work.
Randy
I bought a programmable mouse with a side button, and actually am just using the side button on the mouse for the Cycle Start, ten times handier than point and click. Still thinking about disecting it to make a go button I can "hit" when my hands have coolant residue on them from a tool change.
Now I just need to save up for a touch screen.
Neat, R. A nice solution. If it's an optical mouse, can you just put it in a baggie in the meantime? Just a wacky thought--I've seen guys do that with their keyboards in the shop...
Randy
For a while, I used an Ergodex gaming keypad for my inputs. I designed a custom layout for the direction keys, the ESC, START, STOP, Pause, single step, and maybe another one or two. It was real easy to program using the simulated keystrokes. I really liked the convenience. I could start/pause/stop/ at will without having to reach for the keyboard or mouse.
However, I ran in to trouble a few times. Even though the START button was not immediately at the edge, there were a few times it was hit accidentally. Guess what - the machine started. Fortunately, my fingers were not too close to the cutter. Now I use the Tormach shuttle and the keyboard for starts and stops
Whatever you do, carefully consider what would happen if you dropped your device, it got splashed, something fell on it, a child came by and pushed the pretty button, and everything else that might remotely happen before you finally to go with another START button.
John
I have found that I can hit Alt-R on the keyboard much faster than I can even grab the mouse. It's kind of like speed loading a revolver; if you visualize the 'Alt' key as you approach, you can hold it and quickly aim for the 'R' key in one rocking motion. I'm probably well under one second, including the reach to the keyboard.
Give it a try!
- Just Gary
But then I would have to remember where the R is, and also not hit the T,E,D, or F by accident. Never have been very good at the keyboard thing. I prefer the mouse when using my CAD and CAM programs, but I know guys you use all the keystroke shortcuts. Not me.