Chinese Mill + Chinese accesory + Newbee = Problem

I bought a starter set which included some end mill holders. Put one in and tightened it up then after using it noticed something wasn't right. The problem is that the draw bar got tight but the holder didn't pull up tight into the spindle the last very little bit. I didn't notice because I used a cordless impact to tighten it like I always do. The issue is the that the new end mill holders are either not drilled deep enough or the draw bar is too long. Don't have the problem with the collets or my drill chuck therefore didn't think to check it.

My problem now is that it sheered off the little pin inside the spindle. I can still use it, but it is hard to hold the collets while tightening the draw bar. I think I see how to get the spindle out. I can also see the outside of where the pin is through a slot in the quill, however it is not reachable. I can see where they ground the outside of the pin off.

My question is once I get the spindle out what kind of pin is supposed to be used? Is the original pin a press fit, welded, taper, hardened or what?

How to get the old pin out and the new one in? There is no way to press from the inside and nothing to pull from the outside. Thinking about just drilling another hole.

Anyone had this issue and have any advice?

Sorry for rambling and thanks.

Since you are using an impact wrench to tighten the collets, the pin isn't absolutely necessary.
You could get by using an R8 collet wrench with your free hand.
Hoss

Bigger question,

What machine, and are you sure that you got the right taper collets? On the collets, are they compatible with your machine, hence the length and draw bolt threading is consistent with the draw bar/spindle that came with the machine as well.

Most bench top machines do not have enough torque to even justify using a impact wrench to tighten the draw bar to begin with (way too much torque). Even with running a 1 1/2" carbide flywheel cutter on my X2, I can still get the draw bar tight enough by just holding the spindle/tool alone to while hand wrenching the draw bolt. On collects, I just grab the spindle alone for the last bit of tightening.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dano523

Bigger question,

What machine, and are you sure that you got the right taper collets? On the collets, are they compatible with your machine, hence the length and draw bolt threading is consistent with the draw bar/spindle that came with the machine as well.

Most bench top machines do not have enough torque to even justify using a impact wrench to tighten the draw bar to begin with (way too much torque). Even with running a 1 1/2" carbide flywheel cutter on my X2, I can still get the draw bar tight enough by just holding the spindle/tool alone to while hand wrenching the draw bolt. On collects, I just grab the spindle alone for the last bit of tightening.

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Tru, the Taper fit is really holding the Tool, The Drawbar is just there to make sure the Tool can not vibrate loose.
Split collets also need only a moderate amount of Torque on the Drawbar, the resulting pressure is increased many times by the taper.

Thanks for the replies, The R-8 collet wrench seems like a simple fix. I think I will order one. My machine is the HF R-31 clone and has an R-8 spindle and that is what the new holders are. I think there is just a machining difference I will be able to compensate for with a washer at the top of the draw bar. Just chalking it up to cheap stuff. The impact I am using is just a Ryobi 18 volt pistol grip type, not real strong but works great. The main reason for using it is just speed. There are about 2 inches of draw bar thread and it's a lot faster with power.

Thanks


http://cn1.kaboodle.com/hi/img/2/0/0...=1190815914000

The Insight power drawbar can make things even easier, tons of them have been built.
Hoss