Printable View
380 volt is for industrial 3 phase supply.Normal supply is 230 volt and has been or quite a while.It used to be 240 volt,but dropped back in the early eighties I believe.I suspect all the suitable power supplies for this proposed machine will have their origins on the Pacific rim,regardless of where the final vendor is located.Quote:
Originally Posted by Uguessedit
Hello everyone, once again thank you for the input from everyone, the PS Ger posted was a Toroidal Transformer Power supply which has some benefits over the Switching Power Supply types, the main one being it it's less likely to put High Voltage back on the outputs. I had no idea about the Toroidal PS before Ger posted the link but after reading up and watching a few videos on how they work I definitely think this is the way to go for my set-up, the only issue was getting it over here to the UK, will cost £100. However, after searching to no avail for a similar Toroidal PS this side of the pond, I've decided to bite the bullet and I'm going to order it later on this week... No doubt I'll have loads more questions when I start putting all these parts together, so stay tuned... Please! :)
Cheers,
Phil
A lot of guys in the UK just build their own. You just need a transformer, bridge rectifier and capacitors. There's not a lot too it.
You can try this MA860HT 2-phase stepper driver Universal AC-DC https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1950...chweb201603_52 or equal Leadshine product at stepper online. I will use them because I have stepper motor with high inductance. If you have stepper motor with 22 mH, then you just need to wire mains 110 v to this stepper driver. The stepper driver has no polarity. I will use them with step down transformer 220 VAC to 60 VAC.
Asuratman - thank you but I've already got my Stepper Drives...
Ger (or anyone else) it sounds simple enough to build your own and it does look doable, also it would be a lot cheaper - but I don't have a clue where to start... I'm looking for 80v 1000uf Capacitors and some are saying 'Radial' others are stating 'Snap-in' termination style, does this matter which I choose?
The Bridge Rectifiers are a bit confusing don't know what a lot of this means and what I would need... - Forward Current, Peak Reverse Voltage, Vf Forward Voltage, Max Surge Current and Mounting Style (Through Hole or SMD/SMT)??
What size Toroidal Transformer would I need e.g Power Rating, Number of Outputs, Secondary Current, etc??
Also, would I need a Heatsink and/or PCB Board to connect them all together??
Any help would be hugely appreciated!
Phil
Not everything comes out of the Pacific Rim area! I’d be real surprised if there are no transformer / power supply builders in England or Europe.
If not, it is very easy to get a Stepper drive suitable supply from Asia. The killer though is shipping costs which can be high if you go with a transformer based device.
I've literally just watched this on Youtube, then I logged in here and you'd posted it, lol, yeah it's a good video and I've found a few more that explain the different ratings so I think i'll be ok. One thing I was wondering is, is it better to go for one big Capacitor or 4 smaller ones like in this video above?
Cheers,
Phil
It doesn't really matter.
Capacitors don't matter as long as they are rated correctly for this type of application. Generally derating the voltage spec will lead to longer life at the expense of a bigger cap. 150 volt rated caps will likely be plenty as far as voltage rating goes. Caps with a low ESR spec/design also are of advantage. When wired in parallel the capacitance adds up so it is fairly easy to get the capacitance value you want.
The bad side of capacitors is that there is a lot of junk capacitors being sold these days. In fact bad caps have managed their way into all sorts of devices leading to early failure. Sometimes the failures are spectacular. So when buying caps it is far better to pay a few extra bucks buying brand names from trusted sources. The internet is full of videos of guys fixing XYZ gizmo simply by replacing bad caps.
For clarity: that's a physically bigger package; not a capacitor with more micro-farads (uf).Quote:
Generally derating the voltage spec will lead to longer life at the expense of a bigger cap.
Also, the effect of the ESR gets spread out across multiple caps when wired parallel.Quote:
Caps with a low ESR spec/design also are of advantage. When wired in parallel the capacitance adds up so it is fairly easy to get the capacitance value you want.
Not just today... old Rifa power line filter caps are notorious for exploding when power is applied - and they are sometimes found connected before the power switch; so they go poof as soon as the power cable is plugged in. Old electrolytic caps are also prone to leaking the electrolyte (which is often corrosive) - even the good brands; so re-caping is often needed just as a preservative measure; even if the device is just going to be in storage.Quote:
The bad side of capacitors is that there is a lot of junk capacitors being sold these days.
:)
Thanks for that l, bigger is what I meant.Quote:
Originally Posted by __Britt
I’m actually wondering if there was a time when we universally had good capacitors? As for the Rifa capacitors that is a bad situation but having a power cap explode on you can be “exciting” in all the bad ways. Which highlights an important consideration for this owner supply builders - make sure your polarities are right.Quote:
Also, the effect of the ESR gets spread out across multiple caps when wired parallel.
Not just today... old Rifa power line filter caps are notorious for exploding when power is applied - and they are sometimes found connected before the power switch; so they go poof as soon as the power cable is plugged in. Old electrolytic caps are also prone to leaking the electrolyte (which is often corrosive) - even the good brands; so re-caping is often needed just as a preservative measure; even if the device is just going to be in storage.
:)