Did you stamp it down? When I do my mixes I stamp down each layer pour and that really compresses it really nice and don't have to many air bubbles.
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Did you stamp it down? When I do my mixes I stamp down each layer pour and that really compresses it really nice and don't have to many air bubbles.
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My mix was at 12% and it was to way fluid to stamp/press. Maybe it should have been a bit dryer to enable me to compress it manually...Quote:
Originally Posted by Momentz
The consistency of my mix was similar, maybe a tiny bit dryer than this:
https://youtu.be/14U9lkKdNyU?t=182
...it wasn't possible for my mix to leave the bucket by itself, it had to be helped out with a shovel and into the mould...
/Thomas
Mine was 15% so a little moist but even stamping it down worked a treat, pushed the excess epoxy to the top each time.
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What type of filler do you use? Because it wasn't possible to push anything with the Silimix282 i used... it would have been like pushing "on water"...Quote:
Originally Posted by Momentz
You can "stamp" a liquid with a large surface area object, like a board on the end of a stick/handle. Even when concrete is mixed as a watery slurry you can slap/stomp air out of it pretty effectively. Epoxy is a little different in consistency, but you can do this with straight water so I imagine it's equally possible in this case.Quote:
Originally Posted by badhabit
Mine was a mixture of silica sand and different size aggregates
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I get asked a lot about the size of the machine, so i'll post a picture with people on it for scale(even though i normally don't post people):
Attachment 468442
I'm the guy on the left and i'm 182cm tall...
In the picture it's placed on a pallet which is 12cm tall, however the feet for the machine is only 6-7cm tall, so it'll almost as tall on the image...
We maxed out the crane both on weight and height :-)
one word, BRUTALLL castings looks so good! looking forward to next steps!
That thing is massive! Now I kinda get why you went with a factory made ATC, a horizontal diy atc wheel would be impractical at this size. Do the guys machining this beast have a website? I went through a lot of machining shops and frankly the cheapest quote I got was from a french shop, even with shipping it's 25% cheaper than the cheapest quote I got in germany, so might as well look at shops all around europe.Quote:
Originally Posted by badhabit
I talked to https://bastogco.com/bast-co-en/bast-co/ ...Quote:
Originally Posted by ardenum
They have some pretty large machines that can do the job:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJJSty2bcXw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4-SzEGo9DU (This one didn't end too well ;-) )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIn03i346f4
....but i bet there is some local company near you similar to these guys....they just hide in plain sight :-)
/Thomas
Wow. I've seen precision mills down at Langill's General Machine in Sacramento that can do something like 8-12ft and they claim are precision to under 0.001" end to end, but dang.
At least at Langill's they do wear safety glasses ;)
Small updates:
I'm still waiting on machinetime for my castings, they are very busy at the moment, but the castings has been transported to them and are "in line" to be machined and i'm going to discuss the process etc. with them next week....so...yeah....waiting.... Patience is something i'm born without, so it is a challenging time right now :-) I'll try to convince them to make some video or pictures of the process...
In the meantime, i've been looking for some sort of dolly to move the assembled frame/machine "around", especially during assembly. I'm going to assembly the machine at a friends shop since he has a 1ton overhead gantry crane. So i'll also need something to enable me to move the machine into my garage from the driveway once transported from his shop to my garage. However i wasn't able to find any solution that would work with the available height through my garagedoor and the height of the assembled castings. And since i am trying to learn to tig-weld and bought myself a tig-welder this summer, i thought it would be a good chance for some practice to make some skates myself. So i've made 4 of these:
Attachment 469604
They are only 75mm tall and each of the 4 PU wheels on a single skate can handle 400kg, so i'd figure that i could easy load each of the them with 1000+kg without problems (My casting weighs around 2200kg when assembled and needs to be rolled into my garage).
I have never welded, but if a shop made these for me I'd think it's a pro job.Quote:
Originally Posted by badhabit
Which bed feet did you end up going with? Or is the machine gonna stand on these rollers instead?
Apropo garage, I gave it some thought for my situation, I decided I'd insulate the garage from the inside to do some climate control for my machine, doors included. I don't know how big your garage is, I'm talking standard german 3x5 garage. For winter: there's this company that makes heavy duty ceramic heaters. Not like the ones you see in baumarkts.
https://www.leister.com/en/Industria...1d&layout=card
Another user("lukahr") hinted these to me earlier on, so i bought 6 of them:Quote:
Originally Posted by ardenum
https://www.elesa-ganter.com/en/www/...-elements--LWA
I boought them from Misumi:
https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detai...Keyword=415121
I think "climate control" is very important. Everything lasts longer if the temperature(and thereby also the relative humidity) is constant and you wont have problems with things rusting. My "garage" is 5*7m, it's fully insulated with 150mm glasswool in walls and in the roof. the floor have 200mm styrofoam under the concrete slap. The slap is very thick for a garage(20cm) but i didn't want any cracks if moved something heavy around. I have the floor heated with waterpipes to keep the temperature constant. I have around 17C almost all year except for the hottest of summerdays...Quote:
Originally Posted by ardenum
17C all day sounds so nice. You got space for a family of five? Cause I'm moving in!
lol... family of 5 you say? Depends....are we talking 5 humans og 5 cnc machines? I have two kids screaming at me all day long, but you can never have to many machines....sooo.... :-DQuote:
Originally Posted by StrawberryBoi
So you coated the steel parts against rust. But once they machine it they will probably smear that yellow stuff on the surfaces to prevent rusting. Once you have it in your garage and having mounted the rails and what not will you coat the exposed surfaces with anything? Some of it will still be exposed even with the rails being mounted etc...
I was talking about rust preventer like cosmoline, that they smear on machined surfaces or widely used in guns.Quote:
Originally Posted by ardenum
https://www.facebook.com/VulcanMachi...6446312775664/
I don't see the need to cover it with anything special. It will get some regular oil to prevent rust, other then that nothing...Quote:
Originally Posted by ardenum
Such is the case with many many machine parts, in industrial and automotive and even agricultural use. They are designed to always have oil or grease on them.
If you take gears out of your car transmission and wash them down with soap and isopropyl alcohol to fully and completely degrease them, then leave them out for a few days, you'll have rust.
Platings/coatings are for things which are in fatless environs, such as exposed to outside air but not working surfaces for a machine.
Even something like AISI 416 stainless will rust with time (and salt).
For motors you will typically see nickel or zinc platings on the backirons because they are not generally an oil environment. 416 is used extensively because they are at least semi-protected so other than salt air environs it will rarely rust enough to be a problem.
Motor laminations are coated on the faces with a corrosion inhibitor, but the cut edges will rust like CRAZY which you will commonly see. Sometimes that surface is specifically epoxied into the mating housing to act as both mechanical bond and rust prevention. Sometimes it's coated after the cut process.
It's very common in machine tools to have easily rusting materials with just a thin film of oil. So you only have to look to protect from the particular oil-free environs where needed.