I'm looking to get a vernier caliper and I would like to know about your experiences and recommendations with different brands. I am buying it myself, so I don't want to spend a fortune.
Thanks
Harry
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I'm looking to get a vernier caliper and I would like to know about your experiences and recommendations with different brands. I am buying it myself, so I don't want to spend a fortune.
Thanks
Harry
Mitutoyo is probably the best. Very smooth operation and with the satin finish is easy to read.
Make sure it meets IP65 standard so coolant/oils etc. will not corrupt any measuring
I think all vernier calipers meet at least an IP67 standard. They work immersed in coolant or seawater at any depth. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Superman
Yep take care where you purchase buy once Mitutoyo ,you can get a generic one I have a 200mm one $65 AU i got lucky from ali express it's as good as the real deal $350 ,saying that there was a recent vid on the newer ones for 40 ish with fractions I use the cheap ones for everyday quick measure .
I have read that IP67 means that it is resistant to being 1m deep underwater for 30 minutes.
Does it mean that the measuring performance is not affected by liquids? Because I would have thought that it would corrode if it was submerged in any liquid, especially coolant containing chlorine and sulfur.
Unless you are a diver doing underwater inspection work why would it matter?I would expect a vernier to be used in dry conditions and if you buy the traditional type,that is to say non-electronic,it will work anywhere.In either case Mitutoyo is the standard to aim for.Others might not be too far behind.
hy harry :)
... vernier calipers : look for paralax free; they can last for a lifetime, jaws can be "loaded" & re-grinded, without offsetting the vernier
... dial calipers ( my favourite ) : once mastered, they are faster to read, but more sensitive, internal mechanism may get damaged when falling from only 30cm height; also, they require "clean hands", and more maintenance, compared to a vernier caliper, because dust & small swarf may damage the mechanism ( gear & rack ) ; thus, it can't be used near a machine where air is used to clean the parts, because air may bring particles inside it; otherwise, is a nice & sensitive tool, for final control; i like those where 1mm=360*; if damaged, very few people can fix one, even with a replacement mechanism near them, because it requires a specific operation when being assambled, in order to achieve tension on both gears ( whatever )
... electronics : also faster to read; may get you into trouble when baterry is not ok, because the displayed value can't be trusted; as a consequence, it is required to zero it more often ( compared to the vernier, or the dial type ); it may loose it's precision also because ot liquids, but this can be avoided by looking into ip65 67 69 etc; another problem with them is that there are models with the case a bit flexible, and this will lead to errors, more precise to differences when measurement is done by touching the case, compared to when measuring without touching the case ( touching only the jaws ); to avoid this, look for those with metalic/aluminium case; good .... another "thing" that may appear at a new electronic dial, is that, of you move the case to maximum travel, and back to 0, it won't feel smooth, but with local peeks : this is because the instrument is not linear
when getting close to the target value, the only caliper that shows how close you are, is the dial one, because you may see & interpret ( unconciously ) the dial angular speed; also, the dial type, is the only one which can be read with a great paralax, thus, if you use it inside the lathe, you may read it without having your head inside the machine, and without removing it from the part : these 2 actions, can not be done with the other verniers :
... the vernier type requires to have the eyes perpendicular on it, and it may be needed to be tightened before being removed from the part, so not to lose it's indicated value ( a dial type can be read with paralax, thus it does not need to be tightened before removing it fro the part, and this means loooooonger jaw life )
... the electronic type may also be used with a paralex greater then the vernier type, but still less then the dial type
if you know how to use it, a dial type is the fastest ... however, once finished the measuring, it needs to be putted gentle back on the table; while a vernier and an electronic type may be "dropped"
i replied because i am a bit bored :) i hope it helps :)
ps : i had an dial type for 3 years, until an unexperiencd operator messed it in the 1st day
...I have a old school (1980's) Helios/Fowler 52-008-006 that still works perfectly. Made in Germany back than...not sure now days. The main feature I liked was the covered gear rack, also Stainless Steel and the .100 Dial easy to read.
there is one on ebay but, its not cheap
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MACHINIST-T...oAAOSwX~dWlsfl
here's one with the depth base...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fowler-Heli...MAAOSwF79dttza
here's a new one with the Spec's not sure where Helios is made these days.
https://www.higherprecision.com/prod...e-52-008-006-2
my 2 cents,
DJ
If that was the case then the machines would be locked up with corrosion , theres not enough of those additives to cause severe damage if any damage at all . Stainless verniers are pretty durable measuring tools and they are something that a guy should only need to buy once or twice throughout a lifetime career . Because of price and longevity I have vernier for 18" and up , otherwise I find them a pita to read on a regular basis so I stick with dial for the most part and I also have a couple pairs of digital mitutoyo's .Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryC
as far as coolant proof digital go , mitutoyo , starrett , brown&sharp/tesa are good and they will stand up to shop challenges , there are also other quality brands . Everything else is pretty much junk especially any caliper coming out of china , I have yet to see a single pair come out of that country that can handle a few drops of coolant , or not be screwed within a couple months for other reasons . I bought a few pairs of igaging and thought they were pretty good until shortly after when they all stopped working in one way or another (mostly coolant related) . My digital mit's have never faltered and they look beat to snot after years of heavy use
The whole point of coolant proof calipers isn't to measure while submerged . It's so a machinist can measure in the machine and not have to worry about getting a drop of coolant on the scale . Our hands can become so saturated with coolant that the dampness and wet is enough to throw out normal calipers , even the quality calipers if they aren't coolant proof .
All of this is why I still lean towards dial calipers . As long as the gears are kept clean of fine chips then they last for years without issue
i used to put lube oil on my dial, almost daily :)
I've worked with too many rusty casting and areas with lots of dust particles , so I've always avoided lubes or anything that could cause them to stick to the calipers . I'll use wd40 to clean them but I make a point to get all the wd off
I have a Mitutoyo digital that I bought about 25 years ago. It has a very smooth feel and numbers on the display roll smoothly. An compared to the cheap Harbor Freight variety the battery lasts forever even though I forget and leave it turned on most of the time.
Vernier??? Do your eyes a favor and go a digital. Mititoyu or Starrett will provide a lifetime of use.
my god, i never thougth that dial indicators existed in the 80'sQuote:
...I have a old school (1980's) Helios/Fowler 52-008-006 that still works perfectly. Made in Germany back than...
i really wonder if there are cnc shops, started before the 80's, that had continuously developed since then, integrating new technologies & machines at their best
i guess that what i am doing, is terribly wrong, or old
that's because it goes into screen saver mode :)Quote:
battery lasts forever even though I forget and leave it turned on most of the time
ps : i attached a pic with what i use
I agree with Jim Dawson here.... Mitutoyo is probably the cadilac !!!
If that's the case it does it while still displaying the measurement. That's how I know I left it on.Quote:
Originally Posted by deadlykitten
It seems you are all discussing either digital and dial calipers. Technically Vernier calipers have neither a dial nor a digital readout. They simply rely on a Vernier scale that requires only a magnifying glass a simple math to read. They are the most tolerant to coolant since they have no electronics nor mechanical dials to mess up. They are as accurate as any other type of calipers, just not as easy or fast to read.
All very true,but you missed out two other advantages,they don't need batteries and don't have tiny pinions on the needle that wear.I just ordered a pack of 10 new batteries for my digital caliper but trust the traditional vernier to work all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by bluej_x