Is it possible to "deep engrave" with 40w china laser? Just wood, nothing too hard. But is it possible, and is it a function on the software or how it's done?
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Is it possible to "deep engrave" with 40w china laser? Just wood, nothing too hard. But is it possible, and is it a function on the software or how it's done?
well you can slow down the engraving and use more power but it's going to burn.
The other solution is to make 2 or 3 pass (or more).
Ok, so it's basically possible with the provided software. Using multiple passes was what i had tough it would take.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcbride19
This is good news, and takes me one step closer on getting one of these machines.
certainly but you must understand that each pass burn a little bit the wood so you will have to find the best combination(power/speed/number of pass) for each sort of wood !
Hello monkeyfist, this is Nolan from ThunderLaser, hope my suggestion.
1. if you need " deep engrave", you should choose larger power laser tube, maybe 80 or 100 watt laser tube.
2. and if you make it 2 or 3 pass, yes, you can get "deep engrave", but the result is not good(if you have a laser cutter, you can have a try).
3. please watch this video, you want to get this result?
3d laser engraving - Thunderlaser
Sorry to tell you that but in your vidéo we can see that your laser made more than one pass to engrave(the color of the wood proove it), I have only 50w laser and I've done quite the same result on Samba wood(african wood), of course it will be easier with a more powerfull laser but it can be made with a lower laser.
Hello Mcbride19, from the video, it really only one pass to engrave, maybe the gap is very small, then you think the laser made more than one pass to engrave.
from the video, that is 3D engraving, it can use different power to engrave different depth from the graph.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mcbride19
Dear Sir,
CNC Router is professional used for "deep engrave".
Best&Rgds
Apple
EETO Machinery Co., Ltd
Office 1401, Building B3, Wanda Plaza, Economic & Technology Development Zone, Wuhan, China
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Skype: lovelx0226
Right the best for deep engraving is CNCrouter
!
@Nolan yang : what we can see on the video is another pass to burn the background , you can't say no because in front of the camera we can see that the wood had already been burned ! and to do quite the same as you done with a laser it can be done by using various frames instead of grey levels, of course it won't be the same quality but it can be done.
Depends on the definition of "deep" I routinely do 3 mm deep raster engraving in various woods with a CO2 laser, no problem at all. I have raster engraved wood to 16 mm depth. https://vimeo.com/124636790 The BIG difference between laser engraving WOOD, and engraving WOOD with a rotating tool such as an end mill or router bit is not so much just the detail and angles that a laser can do, although this in itself is often reason enough to exclude a CNC mill from a job, no, the BIG difference, as can be seen in the video linked above, is an end mill or router bit will clear cut to the physical depth of the cutting tool, whereas the laser beam will cut to varying depths depending on whether it is passing over the harder winter bit of each grain or the softer summer bit of each grain... you get a 3D textured effect that is an exact mirror of the wood grain structure itself. If this 3D textured effect is NOT desired or permissible then your ONLY option is to go and use a physical contact cutting tool like an end mill or router bit...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nolan Yang
That does look good, but the thing is that i can't buy a large system. Thus the 40w laser, i can upgrade it to have more powerful tube.. but that's about it. As my apartment is not huge, and i do not use this for professional purposes. Just for my own projects.
I found this tutorial, on how to use Coreldraw X7 to do cut & engrave as layers, this would be great for anyone wanting to do 3d engraving. As you can just do multiple engraving layers as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MR7967VHKnI
I don't know what the "proper" way to do it, but this seems pretty simple.
I think it's better to use the "enable/disable printing or exporting" function to unselect the layers you do not wish to send to the machine at this time.
If there is a software, that would splice 3d designs in to layers, this method would make even pretty complicated designs.