is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
I've been looking at the dynomotion stuff for a couple weeks and am having a hard time deciding to take the plunge. It seems to me that Kflop is a little over my head, is it in reality as difficult as it seems.
I am looking to replace the current (removed scrap anilam system) on my Bridgeport V2E3 mill with something more reliable, and program G code with fusion 360 for home use.
What is used for power to the dynomotion system? I have 240 run through a phase converter to power the mill and will run 110 from a wall outlet for the controller. Does Kflop just connect to the wall outlet or is there something it runs through?
I understand I need Kflop, but what else, do I need Kanalog, or Kstep. Just going to attempt to run 30 year old original dc servos with attached encoder. I understand I may have to get new servos but for now id like to use my existing servos if possible.
re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Hi Gunmachinist,
KFLOP itself only needs a +5V DC regulated supply (2A is normally sufficient).
You would need specifications for your motors and encoders.
Are there existing motor drives and power supply? It is usually simplest to keep those if possible.
re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
There shouldn't be much of any programming involved unless you require something special like a special tool change sequence, special probing, custom external panel, etc. A C program is required to configure your settings, enable, and configure the system. In most cases examples exist that can be used with some parameter values changed. You might read this.
re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Well, I guess were gonna see if I can get it to run my mill. Should have the parts in hand on monday. Thanks for the input.
Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Gunmachinist
Well, I guess were gonna see if I can get it to run my mill. Should have the parts in hand on monday. Thanks for the input.
My biggest issue has been servo tuning but I have weird servos and had never tuned servos before so it was a bit to learn. So far I muddled my way through some custom code for rigid tapping and my machines homing sequence. I am really enjoying the kflop/kmotion part of things. Getting everything moving was pretty simple.
Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
cwatson1982
My biggest issue has been servo tuning but I have weird servos and had never tuned servos before so it was a bit to learn. So far I muddled my way through some custom code for rigid tapping and my machines homing sequence. I am really enjoying the kflop/kmotion part of things. Getting everything moving was pretty simple.
That's awesome to know, I just got mine in and have yet to put power to it. I'm still attempting to figure out how I need to wire it up. I'm afraid that the first time I put power to it I'm going to hear a zzzzz pop, and there goes $500.
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Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Are there any wiring diagrams for the Kanalog similar to this?
Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Gunmachinist
Are there any wiring diagrams for the Kanalog similar to this?
There are some basic ones here: https://www.dynomotion.com/wiki/inde...iring_Diagrams
Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
I can"t get the usb to recognize my board when connected to the PC....even purchased a new usb cord.
Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Hi Gunmachinist,
Do the two KFLOP LEDs flash then stay on?
Which boards do you have? USB power is not sufficient for KFLOP + Kanalog you must use external 5V.
Does anything appear in Windows Device Manager when KFLOP is connected and powered up?
Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Do the two KFLOP LEDs flash then stay on? Yes
Which boards do you have? USB power is not sufficient for KFLOP + Kanalog you must use external 5V. I have tried it with an external computer power supply.
Does anything appear in Windows Device Manager when KFLOP is connected and powered up? Nothing
I have tried uninstalling the software and reinstalling also.
Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
I just disconnected KFLOP from Kanalog and nowthe led lights on Kflop will not come on. Does anyone have any recommendations?
Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Hi Gunmachinist,
Quote:
I just disconnected KFLOP from Kanalog and nowthe led lights on Kflop will not come on. Does anyone have any recommendations?
How is KFLOP getting +5V?
Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
TomKerekes
Hi Gunmachinist,
How is KFLOP getting +5V?
USB with Kanalog disconnected.
I cant get the computer power supply to work with the Molex connection, does the power supply have to be a 5v or can i run both boards with a 15v power supply?
JR1 shows a 12v input prong?
Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Quote:
USB with Kanalog disconnected.
Is Jumper J3 - use USB Power jumper installed?
Quote:
I cant get the computer power supply to work with the Molex connection, does the power supply have to be a 5v or can i run both boards with a 15v power supply?
Both KFLOP and Kanalog only use a 5V supply. Never apply 15V anywhere!
Quote:
JR1 shows a 12v input prong?
The 12V input pin on KFLOP JR1 is not used for either KFLOP or Kanalog. The pin is routed to various connectors as it might be convenient for certain User uses. But it is not used or needed by KFLOP or Kanalog.
Re: is the Dynomotion controll as confusing as it seems?
Hi Gunmachinist,
Quote:
]Is Jumper J3 - use USB Power jumper installed? Yes
If everything is disconnected from KFLOP, J3 installed, and USB is connected, then KFLOP's LEDs should flash. If not then KFLOP has likely been damaged (assuming the PC USB port and USB cable are good).
If the LEDs do not flash you might check the +5V on KFLOP with a Voltmeter. J9 is one convenient place to check. It should read between 4.75 and 5.25V.
