Another Aussie Auto Tool Zero Setter

There's a better way to hook up your switches to get rid of noise issues. Use 24V.
http://www.cncbuildingblocks.com/sourceoptoinput.html

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Originally Posted by mcyr

Hi GG,
...The noise was occurring so fast that the LED's on the diagnostic page didn't even light up. The only way to get it work "properly" was to set the debounce to 5000! That's almost a full second of noise filtration - no good long term. After reading several solutions posted by others with similar problems I tried soldering a 0.01uF cap across the leads at the BOB. It worked so well that I was able to reset the debounce back to 0. Mike

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Mike,
Thanks for the detail. I had no idea that 5000 translated to 1 second of delay. No wonder I have to use such a low feed rate for my probe script.

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Originally Posted by mcyr

By the way, did you need to use a second wire to GND as part of your zeroing system? I wasn't so lucky so I have to attach a wire to the bit to complete the circuit. If you didn't then maybe that might be another experiment you can try.
Mike

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I'm using a Hitachi router. How about you? The bit of that router is grounded to the 110V circuit. I did have an anomaly once. I changed the power strip to a defective or otherwise different unit, and my ground went away. I changed the strip back, and my ground returned. Take an ohm meter from your bit to the 110V ground plug. If you see continuity, you need to change out your extension cord/power strip/or check your shop's circuit ground.

Eureka! I went to the Ratshack and bought a two pack of .01 uF capacitors. $1.49. They were bigger then I thought they'd be.

So, I made a few solder joints, added a couple of pigtails, added a small piece of plywood to support the cap, wrapped it with electrical tape, found a spare Ground on the BOB, and I was working again.

That's a relief to get it solved.

Thanks to all who replied.
Dave

Hi Dave,

I'm using a Porter Cable 7301 router. It only has two prongs so nowhere to test for continuity. And I apologize...I made a huge math mistake...5000 on the debounce x 40 usec is 200 millisec, not 1 sec. Sorry.

Best regards,
Mike

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Originally Posted by Glidergider

That's a relief to get it solved.

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Glad to hear it's all working again Dave. :)

Greg

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Originally Posted by Glidergider

I went to the Ratshack and bought a two pack of .01 uF capacitors. $1.49. They were bigger then I thought they'd be.

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These little monolithics are what I use. Greg

I put one of these on today. I can't believe how well it works. If you don't have one, take my advice and make it It's Great!
Dave

It sure does. Three cheers for Greg!

Here's a little different problem. This is also intermittent. Half of the time, the script works great, but every so often, on probe touch, it will pause, then drive another .2-.3 down, and then retract to .5630 instead of just .5, it is adding in the plate thickness .630 as well. This problem so far has not been triggered by anything specifically. starts some times on boot, other times when loading new g-code. everytime I try to use it, I have to pretest in the air before actually setting zero.

The one thing I am doing different, is I'm wired thru a USB game controller, and pulling the probe thru keygrabber.

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Originally Posted by dewme5

The one thing I am doing different, is I'm wired thru a USB game controller, and pulling the probe thru keygrabber.

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I don't think you well ever get consistent results going through USB and third party software.

USB is not used for timing critical tasks.

Greg

I am tempted to do this, a couple of questions though...

As I understand this you change tools and then trigger this manually. Without moving x or y it ramps down until it triggers? Then the Z id adjusted automatically and you can hit go for the next process?

You have it running downwards at 500mm/min. Do I read that right? And at that speed it can stop dead so it doesn't plough into the deck? I wouldn't have dared to use more than 1/50th of that if I was thinking this out myself. IF your machine can do that does it mean they all can, or more to the point that my Taig can?

Chris

Please ignore my previous message, I posted it after reading the first page not realising there were subsequent posts. Now I have read the lot I realise I have enough to go on with...

Best wishes

Chris

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Originally Posted by Greolt

I don't think you well ever get consistent results going through USB and third party software.

USB is not used for timing critical tasks.

Greg

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This controller I have uses a serial connector that has a usb adapter. would the serial side provide better response. I had gotten the idea of using the controller from this project.
http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_...ontrol%20panel

I think you'll have to use the parallel port for this to work correctly.

Greolt-

Thanks for posting this. It was quick and easy to setup, took me longer to modify my BOB for the pull-up resistor on the input as it has pull downs. Much easier and more accurate than "eye-balling" it. :)

James

Lots of great info here, thanks to everyone that posted. :)

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Greg just sent me the link to this thread. Very cool stuff. I do have a couple of questions. I am having some trouble with an estop firing off sometimes. Not so much now, but I have the debounce set @ 15 or 20 thousand. I am wondering if the cap trick might work on it?
If so, exactly where do I put it? I am using just a plain Jane BOB. I have a really nice one that don't work though. ;)
I am coming out of the BOB on pin 10. Is this where one leg of the cap goes and the other goes to the other side of the switch? I am slightly confused about those caps anyway. I understand diodes and resistors and even led's. The only thing that stores power that I understand is a battery. :)
Sorry for the side track.

Now about this little tool setting gem. I run both a router and a mill now. Just got it up. I know I would need the copper plate on the router for milling my lexan, but on the mill, I always use steel or aluminum. Would I actually have to have a plate in this case? Hmm.

I guess with a long enough cord on it, it will reach both machines. They sit right beside each other. In fact I am going to have to run both off one computer anyway for awhile till I can fix one of the other three I have.
Thanks in advance and great thread.

Lee the debounce in Mach does not affect the probe input.

Previously it did but it has not for quite a few versions now.

It would be better if you can get away without a cap on this input. It slows the signal response down. But some systems will need it.

My system simply needs a pull up resistor to act as a clamp. This is sufficient to eliminate noise problems. Without this it is unusable for me.

However every system will be different. Many variables.

Greg

I was asked about using the Auto Tool Zero with the Shuttle Pro. So I will post the response here also in case it will help others.

Copy your zero script to a notebook file and save it as M650.m1s

Place this file in Mach3 / macros / Mach3mill folder (or the folder with the name of the profile you use)

Then in the Shuttle plugin assign a button to "Custom macro #1" and put 650 in the Macro number 1 box

Just remember if you ever alter your zero macro, you must do it in both places. Button Script and Macro folder.

Greg

Greg

Great work on the Aussie Auto Tool Zero Setter.:cool:

I saw your YouTube video with Vacuun(n) hold down demo.:)

My question, Did you just redirect the suck port on the compressor to the tank?

I have a spare tank on my dead compressor. Maybe I should steal some of the vacuum (into, well out of the old tank), while letting the compressor have some air, so it still works as my chip blower, until I get my dust extractor installed.

I suppose I've just answered my own question, but it's your idea.
Comments Please. I'm in Deer Park. Like to PM for an eyeball.:cheers:

Neil.

Happy snap of a job.