Starting my build...

That new machine looks great.

Thanks! But the proof is in the pudding and I hope it cuts as good as it looks!

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Originally Posted by 109jb

That new machine looks great.

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Got the Z axis unit attached. Basic details of the machine are finished. Still left to do are completing the electronics control box, spoil board, and cable chains. I will have around $1,200 - $1,250 in the machine...

Attachment 330810

Here's a short video of the machine in action...drawing a 2X2 inch circle/square test pattern. The test pattern measure two inches by my ruler and was square...the circle the same in all directions. I started in on the electronics enclosure so It'll be a little bit before I try and cut something.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ah11qyanGYQ

Reusing an old computer case for my electronics control box...

Attachment 331382

Attachment 331384

You're making big steps.. Jealous, I'm just about to get the motors delivered, still a good month or two before catching up.
Looks great, keep the pictures coming..
Cheers,
Luc

Thanks man! I'm nearing the finish line and am getting anxious to cross it!

Not crossed the line yet?...lol...
Catching up on you..
Cheers, look forward to the next update..

Luc

Fretman, question for you: Page 3 or 4, the discussion was on adding a capacitor to avoid Voltage spikes.
I'm a bit worried on this as well, did you add any protection? And if so, or planning to do that later, can you share on how you did that?
Just starting to learn more on the drivers, motors and everything, lot of things still unclear but I'll get it sorted eventually..

Cheers,
Luc

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Originally Posted by fretman_2

Got the X axis motor mounted. Will hook up my temp motor driver tomorrow (I hope) to test it out.

Attachment 325260

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Looks like the stepper axis is not deep enough inside the coupler. Isn't that motor mount too long?

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Originally Posted by fretman_2

What's everyone using as connectors to the CNC control box? I used the screw on 4 pin DIN (I think) connectors from Radio Shack on my Shapeoko, but they don't appear to be available at Radio Shack anymore.

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I am using aviation plugs, same type which is common on Chinese spindles. Those are cheap and easy to handle. Connection is reliable, so I like them.

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Originally Posted by fretman_2

Cool. I bought some of the 4 pin aircraft connectors off of eBay. But... it would simplify things greatly to make all the connections without connectors. After all, my control box is going to be mounted permanently and I won't need to disconnect anything. Something to think about!

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Previously I had permanent wiring, both solutions have advantages and disadvantages. I am in the process of upgrading my CNC and decided that aviation plugs worth the extra trouble. My control box is permanently mounted but is separate from the power supply, so I like the ability to separate the two if I need it. I will also use aviation plugs for the steppers to be able to swap between drivers if I want to.

No...I didn't add a power supply cap to the output. The 48v 10A power supply I purchased has a potentiometer to adjust voltage. I adjusted the voltage down to 45vdc to allow for any spike in voltage caused by deceleration. I could probably bump that up to 46 or 47vdc really. The drivers are rated at 50v.

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Originally Posted by Schuimpge

Fretman, question for you: Page 3 or 4, the discussion was on adding a capacitor to avoid Voltage spikes.
I'm a bit worried on this as well, did you add any protection? And if so, or planning to do that later, can you share on how you did that?
Just starting to learn more on the drivers, motors and everything, lot of things still unclear but I'll get it sorted eventually..


Cheers,
Luc

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Originally Posted by A_Camera

Looks like the stepper axis is not deep enough inside the coupler. Isn't that motor mount too long?

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No...not too long. I have plenty of lead screw in the coupler. I had to have a long motor mount to get the coupler positioned where I could get a hex wrench in and tighten the coupling screws.

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Originally Posted by A_Camera

Previously I had permanent wiring, both solutions have advantages and disadvantages. I am in the process of upgrading my CNC and decided that aviation plugs worth the extra trouble. My control box is permanently mounted but is separate from the power supply, so I like the ability to separate the two if I need it. I will also use aviation plugs for the steppers to be able to swap between drivers if I want to.

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Cool...I hope to get my electronics box working this weekend. I did put 4 of the aviation plugs on the front of the electronics box. I purchased a buck step down converter to bring the 45vdc down to 12vdc for the cooling fan motor and that hasn't come in yet. But I'll just leave the top open. I don't think it'll get too hot. I'm going to purchase the cable chains and install those...it'll be basically finished after that. I've been working on this thing since January!

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Originally Posted by fretman_2

No...I didn't add a power supply cap to the output. The 48v 10A power supply I purchased has a potentiometer to adjust voltage. I adjusted the voltage down to 45vdc to allow for any spike in voltage caused by deceleration. I could probably bump that up to 46 or 47vdc really. The drivers are rated at 50v.

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Thanks. Got 36v on 40v drivers so should be ok, but will get the multi-meter out to check

Ready to cut. First parts will be bearing supports to replace the MDF supports on the machine. Got out the dial indicator and fiddled with the settings in GRBL and ordering the machine to move 1" gets me within half a 1000th of that in the X, Y and Z. The electronics are a little cramped. I had less room in there than I thought.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...d=333304&stc=1

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...d=333306&stc=1

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...d=333308&stc=1

First cut parts...1/8" too large on the outside and 1/8" too small on the inside. Used an existing gcode file, but forgot it was for a 1/4" bit and I used a 1/8" bit to cut the part...LOL.

Oh well...the machine performed flawlessly and did what it was instructed to do!
When I recut the part I'll try and get some video.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...d=333320&stc=1

Glad you got it running ! Im still ordering parts and working on the design...ill go with mdf too to see if everythings wirku working properlys ill switch to aluminum

In ref to your electronics case, if you removed the drive bay hardware, you would free up some space. It is just attached with pop rivets, which can easily be drilled out.

Here is a picture of mine.