XYZ Gantry Build with Rotary Axis

After scrounging together some parts for the prototype CB I began wiring it up today.

I hope I'm not screwing it up too bad. In the picture below you can see the shunt resistor for the panel mounted amp meter.

Does this look right?

The terminal blocks will feed the Geko drives.

Attachment 149906

I have a longer cable coming for the PMDX-134 Geko motherboard to connect to the PMDX-126 below it.

Attachment 149908

In the picture below the outlet nearest the PMDX stuff will feed the router. The double box contains a connector to feed the box and next to it is a switch. Above the switch is a fuse. I probably should have wired up the fust before the switch.

Which way is correct?

Attachment 149907

Next I need to hook up the 120v contactor coil connections via the e-stop circuit.

BobL.

When I was connecting the DC out of the PS to the terminal blocks it dawned on me that each driver should have it's own supply (no daisy chaining), so, since I was on a roll I installed jumpers so all the motors were fed from the two terminal strips.

Then..

Later when I thought about it I realized that the PMDX-134 Geko board is supplied by a single pair. So I pulled out the jumpers and used the terminal blocks for 115v supply for the cabinet and to break out the contactor coil wires.

Attachment 149954

I also installed the ground bar and some basic support for the panel which will provide cable support.

Attachment 149955

I chose to mount the equipment on the side walls not only for saving space but also to seperate the power side from the logic side in case I need some sheilding. If I construct the final box with this in mind I will make access provisions. As it is now I have to unscrew a side panel.

BobL.

After considering ways of routing the wiring and the probable necessity of better access without undue disruption of some wiring, I rolocated things so one side panel is removable without disturbing anything.

Attachment 150065 Attachment 150066

The aluminum angle is screwed to the ground bar on two legs. I also recieved the longer cables I needed. PMDX sure doesn't mess around getting your orders out.

I've also done a lot of thinking on the rotary axis re-design and I think I'm starting to settle on one. I need to do some measurements and get something down on paper (at least) then I'll post it and see what ya'll think.

No more shop time until Sunday but will do some more thinking on the rotary.

BobL.

Bob,
Looking good.
Yes Steve does a good job at PMDX.
Dave

Thanks Dave.

Still poking along on the Control Box. I know the thing is starting to look ratty and I'm taking a few steps back re-arranging things, but...

I get more done if I just charge ahead sometimes, even it that means I'll be doing it twice. I can be a bit of a perfectionist and a procrastinator at times and that combination can make it hard to get a job started sometimes, let alone finishing it :)
I'll try to post some pics tonight.

On the rotary, I've been spending a fair ammount of time contemplating it. I really would have liked to have kept the open-ended design with the rotary axis being along the Y axis. Loading stock or work pieces would have been so much easier. That could be an issue on the way I have to go. I thought about incorporationg hinges along one vetical corner to allow access for maintenance, but I don't see it helping with stock loading.

So, I'll forgo the hinges for now I guess. I've done some sketches on paper but haven't cadded anything up. I'll try to at least scan some pencil drawings some time to post as I really would like some input from the folks that know what they're doing.

Later,
BobL.

Hi Bob,

Like Dave have not been getting updates but it still is looking good. Your putting a lot od design and hours of work in your controll box. Should be good when finished.

My backlash became a problem after I was cutting. Worked good at first but got real bad with more cuts. I would retune the machine all the time but could still not get correct measurements. It seams to be working good now as I have done a lot of cutting. I will let you know if it changes.

Will

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WillsCNC

.. but it still is looking good. Your putting a lot od design and hours of work in your controll box. Should be good when finished.

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Thanks Will. This is just a temporary control box. I can make a mess in it while I figure out all the wiring into and out of it. This way I can get some movement and add things until it's all working like I want it. Then I will build the permanent one and hopefully this machine can cut it's own :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WillsCNC

My backlash became a problem after I was cutting. Worked good at first but got real bad with more cuts. I would retune the machine all the time but could still not get correct measurements. It seams to be working good now as I have done a lot of cutting. I will let you know if it changes.

Will

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Thanks for this info. I have to wonder if anybody has yet gottn one without issues. I don't get a warm fuzzy on my odds at this point. The ball nut on my Y axis was shipped very loose. I wonder if they did that on purpose so a hard knock to the shipping container wouldn't transmit the sock to the ball screw?

Not to be personal, but were your nuts loose ? :eek:

Anyhow, it seems like the problem was obvious when it happened so not much I can do but keep on truckin'.

I do appreciate the info though.

Thanks,
BobL.

I've been working on the control box. Seems slow going at times, but it's coming along.

I split the control panel so the SuperPID speed controller could remain stationary and have it's display protected.

Attachment 150560Attachment 150561

I unceromoniously started scavenging parts from my old machine. I reused some connectors for the prototype but have some new ones for the real box.

Attachment 150562

I also used two Keling stepper drivers from the old machine. One of these will run the Rotary Table and the other one can be used to adjust the vertical height of the rotary axis.

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The Gekos will be used for the X/Y/Z motors.


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That's it for now, thanks for looking.


BobL.

Bob,
That is looking really nice. Keep posting the pictures.
We want to see some wood chips soon. ;-)


Dave

Thanks Dave.

No time spent in the shop this weekend as it turns out.

Looking forward to first movement :)

BobL.

Don't ask me why I put the power switch on the BACK of the control panel.

Moved that to the front and re-wired the fuse so the fuse is before the switch.

Attachment 150984

I added a panel support I found on the clearance table by the front door of my local hardware store.

Attachment 150982

I added a PC power supply for the 5/12 volt supplies.

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I'm trying to add terminal strips on things I think I might have to check/change as I feed things in and out of the box. I know it's really starting to look a mess and kind of slapped together. Prolly cuz it has been :)
I know this box is temporary and so I've been taking all kinds of liberties with the construction. Once I get everyting sorted out it will be MUCH easier to come up with a layout that will work. And of course I will do a much better job with the real one.

It seems slow going though this part, I guess because progress is not as obvious as when you're bolting chunks of extrusions together ;)

BobL.

Bob,
It looks like its almost ready for lift off.
:D
Dave

@Dave---getting closer and getting anxious :)

After a couple of hitches I've got things straightened out and am down to just a few sets of wires to complete the initial configuration.

I was going to just run the Keling drives from the 50 volt supply but that is their absolute Max rating. I was going to use it anyway even if it was just to validate the wiring. In the end I decided to cram another power supply in to feed the Keling drives. The only place left was behing the front panel. If I don't have some noise issues I'll sure be suprised.

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I mounted the PP ribbon cables through the back and added some audio jacks to carry the home switches, touch probes and the RPM sensor for the SuperPID speed control.

Also added a couple of fans.

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So what's left is:

--Front panel meter inputs to voltage monitoring points and to the shunt resistor for the amp meter. (wires are run from the front panel already)

--Audio jacks on back panel to the PMDX for home switches/touch probes (cables are run and ready to be hooked up to the PMDX)

--Step/Dir signals from PMDX to Keling drives. (Not run yet.)

--Add the current set resistors to the Gekos (on hand for installation)

I left some extra wires to facilitate additions/changes.

Attachment 151607

After that I plan on metering out all my connections and capture/verify everyting on my wiring diagram.

Then I will develop a power up plan and hope all the magic smoke stays in everyting :)

BobL.

Bob,
That looks like controlls for a space ship. Hope all goes well when you fire it up. My machine has been going well.

Will

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WillsCNC

Bob,
That looks like controlls for a space ship. Hope all goes well when you fire it up. My machine has been going well.

Will

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LOL, well I do work for a contractor at a NASA Space Center ;)

BobL.

Bob,
Hopefully launch will be more successful than some of NASA and it's predecessors ones. ;-)

Dave

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dfmiller

Bob,
Hopefully launch will be more successful than some of NASA and it's predecessors ones. ;-)

Dave

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I have high hopes Dave :)

Update to follow.

BobL.

My time in the shop has been erratic but I have managed some progress. I meant to take more pictures along the way, but I wanted to peck at the build when I had a chance.

I finished the Control Box basic wiring. 6 Axii (?) are wired from the parallel ports (2), through the breakout board/drivers and available at the back panel.

The router speed sensor cable and and home switches input are wired though to the back also.

Power for the router via the SuperPID is available.

There are extra connectors on the back and some cabling in place to allow for the easy addition of input/outputs once I get going.

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I buzzed out each wire per my wiring diagram and darkened the checked paths on the drawing. I did realize I made one major bone-headed error in design. I had everything running through the main contactor, including the PMDX breakout board that was controlling the contactor.....DUH (chair)

Anyhow got that rewired. The contactor now only switches the two motor power supplies. I plugged it in, crossed my fingers and hit the switch. I am very glad to report all the magic smoke is still safely tucked inside where it belongs. I do have one bad panel meter but have already ordered two replacements. I still need to make a top cover for the control box.

(sorry bout the picture but it is proof it survived the initial power on :) )
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We discussed earlier on the state of assembly our various machines were in when recieved. I mentioned that my 'Y' Axis ball nut was loose and wondered at the time if it was intentional.

Well, I went to tighten them and to do that I had to remove the 'Z' Axis carriage. The screws that held that in were thread locked, so I'm assumming the loose ball nut was an oversight.

Anyhow, got that tightened.

I adjusted that length of the shelf that supports the cable chain and tightend that stuff down.
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As you can see above the motor sported bare wires. I wanted to connectorize them and looked around for something to use as a potting form with the connectors I got from PMDX. (Those are pretty nice connectors for the price BTW). I found some PVC threaded reducers that fit the PMDX connector threads :)

I turned the threads off on the lathe and soldered the wires up in bipolar parallel fashion. I had already created a spreadsheet that tracked the wiring by connector number, pin number , axis function, cable number, wire color, etc. That was really nice to have as I went along.

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I also modified the PC890 router for the SuperPid by removing the original speed control and gluing the sensor tube in the top. The sensor is aimed down at the top of the motor shaft which was painted half black/half white.
I mounted the AC box for the router power on the gantry and ran the power cable.
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I drilled holes in the gantry side for the motor and home switch cables. I still need to drill holes for the switches themselves.

I've got the motor cables and home switch wires run.
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Seems like I'm forgetting to mention something but can't think of it at the moment. Anyhow, we are getting closer and closer to first movement :banana:

BobL.

Bob,

Good to see your back at it. See a few similar things in your build as mine. Hope I gave you a few ideas. It's great to learn from others. Thank's Dave. Keep at it and soon you will have chips all over. Then it's all about dust controll. As for mine.... It works good for getting most od the chips. Much better than my old machine. Keep us posted.

Will

Hey Will,
Yeah it's coming along. And yes, I've gotten some good ideas from you and Dave too. No sense in re-inventing the wheel eh?
Thanks,
BobL.