Painting trick

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...1223160307.jpg


This is actually very simple, I will write it up and if you have questions don't be afraid to ask.

After design of artwork layout etc. plaque was carved on 3/4 maple layed up MDF.
Carved with 60 deg bit stopped depth at 3/16.
Outside profile cut with hand held router with profile bit.
At this point I sealed back and front with vinil sealer by Sherwin Williams to prevent color to enter maple grain.
After sealer dryed I painted carved areas and outside profile with green camo spray paint by Krylon once dry sanded flat surface to remove paint not sanding through sealer.
With air pressure removed all dust and painted finish coat with pre-catalized conversion varnish medium sheen.

Note: due to exposed MDF once sealer gets on in it will develop texture which I do not sand at all. Picture taken on gravel driveway just for presentation.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...1217204006.jpg

This one is also simple.
Material MDF core with oak veneer.
I just get to finishing...
After carving and light sanding wiping stain was applied. What that does that stain will get absorbed by exposed core more that veneered face giving enough contrast.
Stain selection was critical to get requested look...
Seal and finish coat with products listed above..

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...1128192254.jpg

This one was done similar to first example but oak veneer with light coat of sealer so color would also stay in grain.

Both methods are fast and look great. I especially like the staining of the oak veneer over MDF which automatically gives good contrast. Thanks for sharing.:)

Thank you.
What is "precatalysed conversion varnish"?
I've not heard of that- sounds like a kind-of polyurethane 2-pac automotive stuff...but not if it's called a varnish, as oil varnishes dry by oxidation, (usually).

I'm assuing all the MDF signs will never be out in the weather?

(We've done a lot- but freehand routed, usually aBOUT 3/8" deep- it was all before we got the CNC router- and I used well-seasoned hardwood, then took the oxy-acetlyene torch, and burned the base of the letters, TO MAKE IT LOOK LIKE THEY HAD BEEN BRANDED IN (oops sorry about the caps).

Then we'd varnish it all, about four times, till there was a decent solid 100% coat all over, and it was OK in the weather then.

Your idea of putting a waterbased clear on first to prevent colour bleed is good.

Here is info on sealer, no it is not water based
http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/us/e..._vinyl_sealer/

Conversion varnish
http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/us/e...rsion_varnish/

Thanks!
Not sure what equivalents may be available in Australia,but I'll look anyway.

PM sent

Thanks for complements.

If anyone has other painting tricks please feel free to share.

I found a pretty good technique to use when using solid woods such as oak, maple, ect. Once the design is routed into the wood, I give it about 2 coats of spray lacquer and let it dry. (watch for the wood to begin to get glossy) Then I take an enamel paint and brush it into the letters or design on the sign. Immediatly after applying the paint, I use a clean rag to wipe off the paint that is on the surface which leaves just the paint in the carved part of the wood. Let it dry and give a another coat or two of the spray laquer and its all done! I have found this to work very well if you make sure to sand the wood well before starting the process or the paint may get into the grain as well if it has very deep grains.