Fanuc 10T does not like to start up, takes about 20 trys to get it to work. Any ieas

Ok, So I have a hitachi-seiki HT20 Lathe. Has the Fanuc 10 T control. In the mornings, when trying to turn the machine on, it takes 20+ trys of turning the control on and off to get it to turn the screen on. I do not believe it is a screen problem, but rather I/O or power supply issue. Since it has been getting colder, it takes more and more trys. Even once you get the screen to turn on, the standby light, or any of the LED's on the control next to the switches do not turn on. If once you get the machine to turn on, and run it for a half hour or so, and then turn it back and on again, the led's will illuminate when they are supposed to. You can still run the machine and zero return with the standby button pushed, and energized, even though the LED's do not come on. I have a parts machine I can pull parts from, but just not sure what part or parts to start swapping. Any ideas?

As the 10 is in the same family as my 11m (at least that is what I understand for reading other posts).... I have an 11m with a similar problem. I found as the weather got colder it was harder to get my machine turned on which had me thinking that there was a power supply going out. On my machine there is a power supply right behind the key pad (it is hidden behind the crt board) and I would think that your 10t is similar. After digging the power supply out and testing, it turned out that the 5 volt rail was failing. Right now I have a small 5 volt power supply helping the main power supply (I don't recommend this, but until I have funding for a working power supply...). When I would first turn the machine on, the supply would read about 3.2 volt on the 5 volt rail. As it got warmer the voltage would come up to about 4.5 volts, well if I was lucky. As for indicator leds... on my 11m the led indicator lights are all run off of 24 volts. I'm in the same boat as you, as my indicator lights are not working (although they are getting power). I was thinking that I may have a bad chip on the crt board, but your post now has me thinking that the problem may be elsewhere (aka power supply related). A couple of pictures from my 11m. Hopefully, you'll be able to relate.
Attachment 260310
View of the crt board.
Attachment 260312
Crt board is on top with the connectors. You can see a corner of the power supply below the crt board (the caps and heatsink are facing down in the picture). The bottom board is the solder side of the keypad.
Attachment 260314
Interface board for the leds and switches/buttons on the front panel.

Charles

if you get power supply not running when weather got cold replace electrolytic capacitors in power supply next to transformer
I suppose there are should to be 1 uF, 10 uF, 100 uF.

So when you try and turn it on, it will show on the screen "input search" and then after that is on for a few seconds it will say "no signal". Does this shed anymore light on what it could be? I guess there is more than one power supply, so I am not sure which one is related to this problem.

Hmmm... I never got those messages when my machine was not starting, just a blank screen. With a low 5 volt rail the crt board did not have enough voltage to make the logic function. I don't know the fanuc 10 series well, other than I know that many of the parts are interchangeable with my 11m. On my 11m there is a power supply right behind the operator keypad (pictures in previous post), a power supply located on the plc/controller rack, and finally a power supply that operates the I/O boards (unfortunately, I do not have pictures of the last two - though if you are still stuck I'd be happy to take some this evening when I get home). I'm out on a limb here... as the screen is showing a message I wonder if the supply that is failing is the one the powers the main plc/controller.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blakemachine

So when you try and turn it on, it will show on the screen "input search" and then after that is on for a few seconds it will say "no signal". Does this shed anymore light on what it could be? I guess there is more than one power supply, so I am not sure which one is related to this problem.

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may be memory corrupted.
do you have backup of parameters, macros, pmc data?

'Input Search' and 'No Signal' means the CNC control (i.e. Fanuc 10T) is not working
It also looks like you are using a retro-fitted LCD or something similar.
On an original control there is nothing on the screen if the power doesn't work.
That message is coming from a 3rd-party LCD controller board with on-screen display.

So the previous diagnosis is still valid. Check all of the power supplies and find the bad one and replace all of the electrolytic capacitors.

I do not believe it is a retrofit screen. Ok, I took a short video to show what is going on. There is a small "c" in the seven segment display on the mother board when it doesn't want to turn on. I have switched out the power supply that is located on the mother board, and I have also switched out the power supply that is located on the I/O board next to all of the yellow I/O modules. None of this seems to help.

Yes I have backup of the parameters, but like I said, if you sit there for 20 minutes or so going off and on, it will come up and work fine after 20+ trys and run as long as you want, until you turn the machine off and let it sit over night. Please see the video on showing what it does, as maybe it will explain things better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoF9...ature=youtu.be

Attachment 260902

Just watched your video. I can't tell for sure from the video, but if you can pull the back off the front operators panel and look for a power supply hidden under the crt board. Based on the video and your description you found the more obvious power supplies (same ones I replaced when trying to get my machine going - I now have spares as they weren't the problem power supply). Your board layout looks a lot like mine. I'm betting that you'll find a power supply behind the screen or the keypad.

Charles

the alarm on the master PCB gives you a clue.
it looks like a small c so in that case it's a fiber optic connection issue.
if you have the 10T maintenance manual check where all of the fiber optic cables connect and re-seat each one. it's also possible one of them got damaged somehow.
you can check the cables by shining a torch down one end and look at the other end and you should see the light. if no light your cable is broken and needs to be replaced.

btw, I also still say the monitor is a 3rd party replacement because Fanuc monitors don't show a 'no signal' message on the screen. it is either on and shows the normal CNC display or it is black (i.e. off). the 'no signal' message comes from the 15k-25k scan-rate converter connected to the monitor. if you open the operator panel door and look you will see there is definitely something going on in there that is not factory. either way that is not where the problem lies.... just saying :-)

Please check optical fiber cables.

I know this is old, but the problem was never solved.

Here is how I fixed the exact same issue.
Replaced These two parts-

Fanuc Power Supply Board: A20B-1001-0160 <----------------- to the left of the CRT.
Input Unit: FANUC A14B-0076-B001 <----------------- on the bottom of the gray Fanuc cabinet

Here is the interesting thing, I replaced all the capacitors on the power supply board. The machine turned on fine for a year! Then same failure as the OP. Bought a repaired one on ebay - worked for one month!
I swapped the Input Unit and now everything is fine. Works like new again.

Maybe the input unit was the only thing that needed replacement, but at 30 years old most capacitors are going bad.


Attachment 410664

Attachment 410666

One more thing, to test the power supply board I found it pretty easy. There are terminals marked 10, 5 and 12. They all measured close to those voltages DC.

The input unit, you are supposed to hook up power to R and S, then I was not sure how to test???

In my 50+ years in electronics capacitor failures are rare, even on 40 year old equipment. There are some brands of capacitors more likely to fail.
R + S are just the 200V single phase wires from a transformer.

With all due respect memoryman, capacitor failure is the most common failure in 20+ year old electronics. Search the internet for "recap".

The question bellow is after hooking up power to R+S, what do you need to probe on the board to test it?

Back in the early '60s, I routinely would replace all brown Wima capacitors in equipment. Of course I've had other cap failures since, but not often. Usually electrolytics.

I have a similar problem on the T10, black screen. Is "b" lit on the motherboard?

So going through same issues. Not exactly sure what the fix was, but hoping the light will be shed soon. On my machine after attempting power on, the INPUT UNIT OI board light is green ( PIL ) when initial voltage is supplied to machine. Push Power On button at control, relay pop noise, nothing happens, then check board and red ( ALM ) is on. Pressing Power Off resets it. I will attempt on / off 20+ times but was told to search for broken wires in the 24v system. I've had no luck on this quest thus far.

I would start by changing the power supply attached to the motherboard or maybe can be checked by someone for load