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I actually think it may have been more of an oversight than intentional. I also imagine it was the Chinese factory that was at fault for the oversight. That said, we all know ignorance is no excuse in the eyes of the law and Customs. I ship products around the World and I pay strict attention to the Customs forms and regulations. Takes a little time per package, but it is a must do.
Ship em to Ray and have him drop ship them to US customers for replacements..
Very convenient, although the height of the mill on the stand (and the pallet) caused a few moments of consternation about whether we were going it to fit under the garage door and into the shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by rlockwood
I don't get the impression that Khai or John are very eager to have these coolant pumps returned. At least they're not burning up my e-mail to arrange shipping.Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeWay
You're right that the wiring should be relatively easy to trace out. I'm lazy, though, and was hoping to find that someone else had already done the legwork.
That would actually be feasible. I'm not that far north of Ray. And who really needs an excuse to visit Santa Cruz?Quote:
Originally Posted by rlockwood
Does your Torus Pro and Pulsar have the same oil distribution manifold as my Torus does?Quote:
Originally Posted by SCzEngrgGroup
Attachment 225106
Attachment 225110
When I filled up the one-shot oiler with Vactra 2 way oil, the handle would go down within 15 seconds or so. After some poking around I discovered that the oil manifold pictured above was leaking at two different locations. Both the left and right flexible oil lines are leaking. The brass nut is not loose, so I think I'm going to have to remove both flexible lines from the manifold and see what the problem is.
The flexible oil lines appear to have a metal spiral surrounding plastic tubing. The metal spiral is easily separated by just a fingernail so that the underlying plastic tubing becomes visible.
Curiously, I couldn't find this style of aluminum oil distribution manifold anywhere even after quite a bit of searching. Plenty of manifolds machined out of solid stock, but nothing that looks like it is cast like my manifold. I also couldn't find this style of flexible oil line. My Google-Fu is weak today...
All it really needs is sealed up. I used some silicone around the threads and a plastic end cap that came from a pipe or maybe powder coating plug. Works great.
I'm not sure what you mean by "hose end is crimped to the rubber hose". There isn't any rubber hose, just some 4mm nylon tubing. Are you saying that the aluminum piece should be part of the brass compression parts?Quote:
Originally Posted by vertcnc
At the manifold where both flex oil lines are leaking, the aluminum piece on the oil line is definitely separated from the brass compression parts. But at the other end of this oil line - where it connects at the one-shot oiler - the aluminum piece also doesn't look connected to the brass compression parts.
I think that there should have been a 90 deg elbow installed at both ends of the oil manifold so that the two flex oil lines would have come in at a better angle.
That sounds like a great idea. I wonder what this connector on the stepper motor is supposed to do?Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeWay
I was also looking up these WEIPU circular connectors because there are a couple of the black cable conduits that are loose where they go into the vertical part of the column. It looks like a blue plastic piece was forgotten on one, and another one of the pass-throughs into the column is shorter than the others so it never tightens up properly.
Titaniumboy
The oil line connections are composed of the adapter, plastic 4mm line and a furrel. The spring material is just an armor cover to protect the plastic line. Sometimes, from what I can see from the picture, if the tubing is bending too close to the adapter, it can cause the furrel to not to seat properly in the adapter when tightened. A common problem in constricted spaces. We have plenty of stock parts to take care of the oil lines, connectors or manifolds as needed. There is no need to go search for parts, we have them all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Titaniumboy
Regards,
Novakon Team
Another thing I noticed this morning on the one-shot oiling system is that there was a puddle of oil underneath the oil manifold. It looks like there is some siphoning going on.
Would I still expect to see this siphoning action once I get both flex line oil leaks fixed?
Do any of the Novakon mills have some sort of metering for the varying amounts of oil needed for the different oil circuits?
The smaller connector on the motor is inert and has no function. The stepper motors we buy have a special Novakon feature machined into the motor end that can mount an encoder. This was looked into in the past for "missed step" detection but never had a clear need for it. Therefor, all of our steppers have the connector for the encoder that was never fully implemented. Strangely enough, it would have cost us more to remove the feature that to continues with it, so now you know why it is still there. We still may use it one day, who knows.Quote:
Originally Posted by Titaniumboy
As far as the Weipu connectors, we have plenty of stock of the ones we normally use. Other connector models we can bring in as required. The smaller caps for the motor connectors we now have if you want them also. Our store of connectors is quite complete.
Just let us know what is needed and we will most likely have the parts.
Regards,
Novakon Team
If you think there's a possibility you may use the connector in the future, wouldn't it seem a good idea to protect it from damage?
In the previous pictures you posted, you will see three metering valves on the manifold (back side). The left side is the input from the pump and the right side ports out to another manifold inside the saddle which has other flow valves for distribution. If you are puddling, we just have to find the leaky line and repair it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Titaniumboy
Regards,
Novakon Team
Hello Novakon Team (John?),Quote:
Originally Posted by Novakon
Thanks for the details regarding the oiling system. Do the metering valves have a built-in check valve? If yes, that would certainly prevent any siphoning issues once the leaks are fixed.
The two oil leaks are both at the manifold where 1) the incoming flex oil line comes in, and 2) where the outgoing flex oil line leaves. What is the recommended way to stop the leaks? Would a 90 deg elbow help with the excessive bending of the two flex oil lines?
I received your email regarding the shipping cost of the extra coolant pumps and the control cabinet extension cable. I will email you regarding these two items.
Regards,
Titaniumboy
Yes, we have thought about its use. As far as damage, are you referring to damage to the machine or to the parts in work? The "missed steps" monitoring would most certainly make sure the cutting job didn't get out of control and wipe out your vise or nice fixture. The decision not to proceed was more due to cost versus interest. While it adds cost to the development pile, not many want to pay the extra to shovel the pile out the door. "Options" are great, but unless we see a clear desire by many customers, it doesn't make too much sense to spend much time on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by rlockwood
For example, most of our machines are now AC servo and only a few expressed interest in the stepper versions of the Torus PRO and Pulsar. We may see a trend of customers wanting the stepper Pulsar down the road, but so far, virtually 100% want the servo Pulsar. Overall, a much better performing machine but very expensive components. Steppers are good performers and less expensive, just slower and there is a noticeable difference in sound....and of course, no feed back loop. It is a choice we offer to go servo or stepper since we install all the electronics prior to shipment.
I seem to be getting off the subject, but basically, if we have more demand for steppers and an interest in "step detection" circuitry, we can proceed with this again. Maybe it may be a good time to make a thread to poll the potential interest?
Regards,
Novakon Team
Sorry I thought the lines with spring guard were rubber. Sometimes on lube lines they use a rubber hose assembly were there is movement. 4mm or 5/32 nylon tubing in your case. Should be able to just trim the lines off and use some new ferules.
Yup, today I am operator number 3...John.Quote:
Originally Posted by Titaniumboy
The metering valves are spring loaded and exert a small pressure on the internal "ball" that has to be overcome by the pump oil pressure. Therefore, this is how they meter the flow evenly to all points. In reverse, it will check the flow to stop any siphoning back in. A pretty simple device and effective.
The best solution to the ends would be to add the elbows. the thread is 6mm and I should have stock for this too. I will send you an assortment of parts to repair the suspected areas. Inspect the oil line length to make sure there is enough line slack to cut the tube end off and use the new furrels. Sometimes the tube can be a little on the "short" side so I may need to send you tubing also. Please let me know. These are all trivial parts and the repair is easy.
One other point I will bring up. The diagrams and operation of the Torus versus the new Pulsar are functionally very close. Obvious physical differences aside, the electronics and functions are virtually identical. The Pulsar manual is in development by a professional company currently, and a draft copy will be available by the time of the Cabin Fever Expo in April. This manual will greatly assist you in using the Torus on an operational basis. I also believe Leeway has the Torus operation mastered and has used it quite effectively. There are others but they are quiet on the zone, but I am sure they will jump in with some helpful hints. The rest is just mastering Mach3 and coding. Sounds so simple....:drowning:
Regards,
Operator number 3
Novakon Team
The siphoning makes sense now - my leaks were upstream of the metering valves.Quote:
Originally Posted by Novakon
It looks like I will have enough slack in both oil lines to effect the repair, especially if you can also send me a couple 6mm elbows.
I'm looking forward to your new Pulsar manual. And LeeWay (and others) have been very helpful.
I haven't dug into Mach3 yet. I have taken community college classes where I've programmed Hurco, Fadal, and Haas vertical machining centers. This experience has really driven home that every machine uses slightly different versions of gcode.
Interesting backstory on the motor connectors. Our motors have a machine version of an appendix! When you say that the motor connector is "inert", does that mean that no wires are terminated on the connector?Quote:
Originally Posted by Novakon
We would be interested in what the cost would be for the smaller motor caps. I might need some additional Weipu connectors, but I can work that out with you offline.
I think rlockwood was referring to protecting the smaller motor connector from damage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Novakon
Titaniumboy
I meant.. It seems likely that the connector you're planning on possibly making use of in the future is wide open to infiltration of coolant and chips, either of which will likely render the connector unusable to current owners if you decide to make use of it in the future..Quote:
Originally Posted by Novakon
I've been meaning to buy a boring head and boring bars for my G0704 for ages, but never got around to it. Now that I've got the Torus mill I still think there is a need for a boring head - it is hard to beat a boring head for making a hole perfectly round and precisely located.
I'd like to get a boring head which will work on both the G0704 and the Torus. I'm leaning toward a 3" boring head with a non-integral R8 shank. The 3" boring head uses 3/4" shank boring bars which have got to be more rigid than the 1/2" boring bars that fit a 2" boring head. The non-integral shank is so that I can change over to a 3/4" straight shank in the future to accomodate TTS.
I've been looking at this 3" boring head set from Shars. shars.com - 3quot Boring Combo
Attachment 225282
Is the 3" boring head too large for these mills? Any recommendations on boring heads or boring bars?
Titaniumboy
Usually, you choose dome crossover point. Below that point, you decide its more economical to purchase a reamer for a given size of accurate hole. From that point up until the boring head either loses capacity or effectiveness, you use the boring head. Beyond that, you accept that your most accurate method will be circular interpolation.. Reamers get prohibitively expensive over 3/4", lower than that if you want carbide ones. Its a compromise either way, so you have to weigh the pros and con's against the demands you have. Its important to consider the type of work you're doing. Circular interpolation works great, provided it doesn't require an exceptional length:diameter ratio of the tool..