Re: CNC Pyrography Experiments
Quote:
Do you think the T12 cartridges can handle 240 to 300 watts.
Cartridges? I think so... they are used typically at temperatures between 300 to 400 Celsius; and their innards are metal and ceramic. With a properly shaped tip (i.e, large like a chisel or hoof shape, not a tiny pointed tip), I think there should be enough thermal conductivity to get the heat from the heater element to the wood.
One way to find out, though... get one and try it. Hmm...
Quote:
I did get the Vectric post processor tuned as well as it could be as they don't have a lot of capability.
Perhaps a post-post-processor? Some script written in your favorite language should be able to pattern match the Z moves, and insert whatever code is needed.
Quote:
Also, Altech makes ceramic terminal blocks.
There's a whole bunch of them on Amazon, eBay, etc... just search for "ceramic terminal block".
:)
Re: CNC Pyrography Experiments
I have several T12 and T15 cartridges. Pretty much the same and I can use them interchangeably on a couple stations I own. I have my doubts but my eventually try them, but the soldering station power source will not work. Just not enough power to keep up with wood burning.
Does anyone know the connections for the terminals on the T12 cartriges. Also the voltage used to energize the cartridge would give me a starting point.
I have purchased several Ceramic terminal blocks. The problem is that in all I have tested, the actual terminals inside ceramic float. IE they are not held down. This may be to keep the ceramic from cracking when the metal gets hot. These wont work as the tip must stay stationary.
2 Attachment(s)
Re: CNC Pyrography Experiments
I attached a small fan with speed control to the front of the floating head shown here:
Attachment 429016
I started a new series of tests. MDF is the easiest and most consistent medium to burn, so I will start with it.
Shown here are three runs I made:
Attachment 429018
Test 1
This is where I dialed in the amperage to get the shade I wanted. The test consists of a very fine run in one direction then another at 90 degrees. I then burn an outline on the outside edge.
Test 2
A fresh test at 12.5 Amps. I did get some banding which was caused by an air conditioner that was cycling on and off. Another was caused by a carbon buildup, probably from the last test coming off and causing the tip to get better contact with the stock. I will need some method of cleaning the tip between burning large objects.
Test 3
I turned off the AC unit and ran the test again. As you can see the shading is much more consistent.
Each test took a little over 9 minutes so the machine ran 27 minutes with no heat build up on the plastic terminal block.
Where do I go from here? I need to test various wood types to see what kind of results I can achieve. I think I'm going to need a larger controller and thicker wire to the floating head.