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Ok, I got my G9729 and this is where I'm going to post my build.
It may come slow, but it will come.
Special Thanks to Zer0fighter and FannBlade !
I noticed the travel on every axis is really rough, like the axis' are traveling through bumpy gum or something... I'm not happy about that, but I'm hoping it's just the shipping adjustments they made. Because it looks machined flat like it's supposed to.
http://youtu.be/e2M7ocWsjeQ
Here are the components of my table: I will post some photos as I put it together, rather than make a video showing me welding (BORING)...:
http://youtu.be/vUXhnd4SiAg
Ok, yesterday I started my table for the G9729 3-in-1. As I say in the video, I messed up FannBlade's lubricant catch design. I really didn't pay much attention to his table, and was only looking at the lubricant catch design and then didn't do anything with it for a few days, forgot, then started to weld and the rest is history... Now I've got to come up with a new design for catching fluid.
If the video doesn't load right away (today 5/9/14 1:24 pm pst) it's because I'm just loading the video now.
http://youtu.be/YklCQFrWJkU
Didn't move the project along that far as I was struggling with design changes. In the end, my solution is a little weak, but it's the best I could come up with, without tearing things down and starting over (which I may do when the table is finished- I can use the table for something else).
Next I need to build the splash guards, back and side wall(s). Then fill in the gaps with fiberglass fill and then coat with brushable ceramic paint.
I think I'll start with the splash guards and side walls tomorrow. I'm just waiting for FannBlades front and rear splash guard measurements to guage how big I should make them.
[ again, if it doesn't load right now - 9:00 pm pst - 6/9/14 it's because it's uploading to youtube right now]
http://youtu.be/07OTG4XzZtc
The stepper motor choices are mind boggling... for a rookie like myself. But I found this really good .pdf about stepper motors that is very to the point and informative.
Intro_stepper.pdf
Now, how much torque does one need for these 3-in-1 tables...as I've read there is a trade-off... the smaller motors have smaller more precise movement, but less torque... and the reverse for the larger motors...
How much torque for X axis ?, Y axis ?, Z axis ???
Subscribed! Good luck on the build. Already looks high quality. Your shop looks great too, nice floors.
:-) thanks ... those floors were a major effort in that there was no moisture barrier and the moisture was around 97% ... we had to ground the concrete down, put up some hard core moisture barrier another epoxy sealant and then the normal epoxy with flakes. And NOW we are going to move (18 mo. later)... I am going to find a place with a nice shop :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by zer0fighter
EPIC FAIL
I was trying to put unload this machine from the crate bottom onto the table I am making to get a better idea of what kind of angle and how much room I'm going to need for the coolant splash guards...
Mistake #1 - Don't lift heavy equipment alone (even with powerful equipment).
Mistake #2 - Go with your gut, not instructions in the manual. I didn't have a cherry picker to lift it with, I had to use my tractor, so their instructions (the G9729 manual did NOT apply) but I was too lazy to think it through and paid for it.
I dropped the machine, broke off the piece that hold lathe stock in place and cracked a part of the mill bed. Not to mention poured transmission oil out all over our driveway.
Not only that, I realized when I got the machine on the table, that I had built the table for a machine that had the pulley housing in the center of the machine and while I got the depth right for that scenario, it was TOTALLY WRONG for the ACTUAL scenario. I now have to go back and modify the table to lift the machine so that it sits higher. The way it is now, the x-axis table feed handle has only enough room to rotate with no finger or hand on it (can't use it the way it is! )....
I feel like a moron. Literally, not figuratively!
Video Here:
CNC Build Epic Fail - Grizzly G9729 - YouTube
Damage pics below:
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Attachment 239682
Attachment 239686
KevMoto,Quote:
Originally Posted by KevMoto
Nothing a little bondo wont fix. Sometimes our long johns don't come out looking appetizing, that's what frosting is for.
Live from the doughnut factory,
JoeyB
Got my new G9729 tail stock carriage replacement yesterday... $144 (with shipping) and I ordered my first stepper motor today for fitment. I got a Nema 34 640 oz-in . I wanted to see how big they are with my own eyes. I downloaded the specs, but just wanted to handle the thing.
Now I'll have to figure out the mounting.
I also had a question for Zer0fighter and FannBlade:
For Zer0fighter... I noticed your ball screw only was about half the length of the cross slide table while FannBlade's looked to go all the way across and insert where the old screw did. So I was wondering why? Also wondering how long of ball screws you guys ordered?
Also, did either of you guys have to tap holes into your cross slide? to mount the Y-axis stepper and screw?
Here is a partial price list for anyone else thinking of this. Where there was a range in price shown, I used the high.
CNC Conversion Necessities:
• SmoothStepper Breakout Board - $220 (just read a lot about this board, not sure if it's the one I'll get).
• Gecko Driver G540 - $279
• 48v Torroidal Power Supply - $169-$209
• Ballscrew - $110 (X2)
• Free End BallScrew support - $30 (X2)
• Fixed End Ballscrew support _ $50 (X2)
• x-axis stepper - NEMA 34 640 oz-in Stepper Motor (KL34H280-45-8A) 1 $89.00
• Y-axis stepper - NEMA 34 640 oz-in Stepper Motor (KL34H280-45-8A) 1 $89.00
• Z-axis stepper - NEMA34 1200 oz-in Stepper Motor - 1/2" Single Shaft (KL34H2120-42-8A) 1 $119.00
• x-axis mount - $300(1/2" X 6" X 60") - $23(1/4" X 12" X 36") (aluminum stock)
• y-axis mount - will use above
• z-axis mount - for all three mounts
• Lathe VFD motor - $127 2HP 3600 rpm 220v 3phase
• Mill VFD motor - $127
• VFD control (2X) - $164
--------------------------------
Total - $2,103 (no tax or shipping included)
Add your machine price (mine brand new is with shipping) $2,139.
Total CNC 3-in-1 all new - $4,242 ($4642 with table cost)
And I'm sure I forgot some stuff.. Oh yeah, I fabricated my own table (Of course I went way over the top but it's already $400 + in metal alone and I haven't even epoxied it yet).
I probably should have looked at the Tormach 1100 more closely ...... But hey, I didn't even KNOW I was going to want to CNC this thing. AND you can't put a price on fun and education.
"For Zer0fighter... I noticed your ball screw only was about half the length of the cross slide table while FannBlade's looked to go all the way across and insert where the old screw did. So I was wondering why? Also wondering how long of ball screws you guys ordered?"
I mounted it so I only needed the length of ball threads of how much travel the table could give me.
"• SmoothStepper Breakout Board - $220 (just read a lot about this board, not sure if it's the one I'll get).
• Gecko Driver G540 - $279 "
You don't need a breakout board if you have the G540 do you?
I mentioned in my e-mail, you can use a single VFD to run both the mill and the lathe, since you'll never run them at the same time (or are you?!). You wire the G540 into the VFD, and from the VFD to a relay and to both motors with a switch to switch between lathe or mill operation. Would save you $164.
What is the x-axis mount for $300? Not sure I follow, is that the ball screw?
In your picture of that mount (with the Y flipped upside down) is that 4 tiny screws holding the plate?Quote:
Originally Posted by zer0fighter
And, how long of a ball screw is the one for your Y ?
I have no idea, I just was going by the list FannBlade made, he had a driver and a breakout board. I didn't know the G540 did both. If that is the case, then I would definitely not be buying the breakout board. I plan on running mine just like you, from my laptop.Quote:
Originally Posted by zer0fighter
Good point. I'm not sure. I was hoping to wire the lathe with a RPM detector (like FannBlade), so I could maybe use it as a 4th axis. So on this one I'm not sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by zer0fighter
No, that was just for the stock aluminum to make the different mounts. I can probably get it cheaper at my local metal shop, but last time I went to get stock for my table, they didn't have any 1/2" X 6" aluminum at all. The thickest they had was 3/8" which would probably work, but since you guys did 1/2" I was going to just copy your design.Quote:
Originally Posted by zer0fighter
Now that I am into this, I have had a change of plans and a slight back-off of the gung-ho FannBlade build. The real problem or reason is that unlike FannBlade, I don't really have an idea in my head of what I really want and I don't want to copy his exactly, because I'm not sure I want or need everything he's done.
So what I decided to do, was finish the parts of the table that would be hard to do or would require me to take the G9729 off the table to do and then bolt on the machine and get it operational (clean it down, get everything working properly) and then start the CNC part, first to your build level and then a break (I have a LOT of other projects I am falling behind on - most notably a crf250r ( MX bike for those who don't ride dirt bikes) build that has taken a nose dive since starting this CNC project. I originally got the 3-in-1 for some things I need to do for this crf build, but then got so psyched up for the possibilities, I dropped everything to start on this.
So I only got the stepper for the Y-axis because I need to know how far it will stick out and how high (yes I could have done the math, but theory always has bumps that can be avoided if you have the actual thing in your hand)...so I can decide the angle of the braces for coolant wash pan / wall. 45 degrees is easy, but looks too steep. 30 degrees looks great, but is a pain in the arse to cut. Have to use the 60 degree cut and use the opposite piece (get's a little brain twisting). Feel like I'm doing crown molding or something.
Plus we spent a LOT of money last few months... lots of Birthdays, Mother's day, Father's day, relatives Birthdays...so I need to back it down and put it together piece by piece to keep my wife from giving me the stink eye.
"In your picture of that mount (with the Y flipped upside down) is that 4 tiny screws holding the plate?
And, how long of a ball screw is the one for your Y ?"
Yeah, 4 tiny screws, this is the free end of the ball screw, it's really just to prevent it from whipping, as the hard mounts are all on the other side.
"I have no idea, I just was going by the list FannBlade made, he had a driver and a breakout board. I didn't know the G540 did both. If that is the case, then I would definitely not be buying the breakout board. I plan on running mine just like you, from my laptop."
G540 is an all in one. I have Laptop->USBCNC100->G540->Steppers & VFD
$300 seems like a lot for aluminium. I'd say all in for aluminium, I'm closer to $100. The 6"x1/2"x30" was around $40 IIRC.
These are the 2 ballscrews I bought for the machine X/Z lathe axis:
SFU1605-C7-975 975mm Ballscrew & Flanged Nut w/ Machined Ends
Item# 407 $100.06 USD 1 $100.06 USD
SFU1605-C7-365 365mm Ballscrew & Flanged Nut w/ Machined Ends
Item# 415 $71.38 USD 1 $71.38 USD
I thought I saw a USB->USB G540 ?? no?Quote:
Originally Posted by zer0fighter
Perfect. what is IIRC aluminum? But i also need the square stock to make the mounts...which I will thoroughly enjoy making with the mill, even if it's manually before I do any of the conversion. SO I just looked at the first place I could find online to get an idea. At my local metal supply house, they charge for stock by the pound and they have high grade aluminum and regular (purple painted ends) and that is what I'd be using. but they don't have 1/2"X 6" stock only 3/8" X 6" ..... i'm sure it doesn't weight much. But I agree, probably more like $100.Quote:
Originally Posted by zer0fighter
If they make a USB G540 now thats great. I had to get the USB converter, my original laptop was a piece of crap and ran out of memory a lot. Got a better one for $150 but no parallel ports. Very rare on laptops newer than 10 years old it seems.
IIRC, internet slang for (if I remember correctly).
BTW, 3/8" x 6" would be more than enough. The thicker is only nicer so you can countersink your bolts that mount it up to the bed.
WOW! Does time fly! Moved twice, built a new shop, pulled everything out of storage.. and HERE WE GO!
Just put my table back together. I had torched it into pieces because it was too heavy to move when we moved. Also now it's on wheels.(each wheel rated for 3500 lbs). The thing still weighs a ton. I don't know how much exactly but could probably be calculated. (2x 5' pieces of 2X2 3/16" square steel)+ (2x 2' pieces of 2x2 3/16" square steel)+ (4x 2' pieces of 3/8th square steel) + (2x 5' pieces of 3/16" angle iron) + (2x 16" pieces of 2x2 3/16" square steel) + (1x 2'X5' 3/16" sheet steel) + (2x 4' pieces of 1"X1" square tube) + (4x ultra heavy duty wheels)... As a weight lifter all my life, I"m going to guess (from laying this thing over to weld and picking it back up) it is around 300 lbs.
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=463610&stc=1
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=463612&stc=1
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=463614&stc=1
For anyone who remembers my old shop... here is my new shop...
I made a video of the garage part on YouTube. https://youtu.be/jiyTZG4464g and after some shelves went up https://youtu.be/Ehvi6yWGet4
This morning while prepping the table for paint. My angle grinder attacked me!
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=463616&stc=1
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=463618&stc=1
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=463620&stc=1
Well, now I'm getting back to it. Man life just happens and then it takes so long to get back to the things we REALLY like to do.
These are older photos, but the last photo shows my current garage set up with the G9729 in the back. Now, I'm getting everything together to do the dang conversion I've been wanting to do forever!
If you haven't read the whole thread, the reason the backsplash is so "crinkly" is because it was an old piece of sheet metal I had lying around and it was rusted from being flat on the ground in storage for so long. A new piece was about $1500 at my local metal supply shop. So I just got the grinder and sanding discs out and removed the rust and then coated it with epoxy I had left over from the floor.
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=491740&stc=1https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=491742&stc=1https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=491744&stc=1https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=491746&stc=1https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=491748&stc=1https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=491750&stc=1
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