wood carving trials

Hello guys,
I am relatively new to this forum and would like to get any help from all the expertise available here on the forum.
I have been trying some designs with Birch plywood and applying paint on them. See attached photos.
These designs, I have carved on a Chinese router with solid carbide tools.
Now, the problem with the outcome is that after m/cing and painting when I remove the masking tape, some glue still remains stuck on the top surface. What's more is when a try to sand the surface, the glue will stick into the sanding sheet and get spread all over the workpiece, giving it a poor finish. (darker spots in photo)
Now my question is that, is there any way to remove the masking tape and get a clear surface? Or is it this way only that you have to sand really hard to get rid of the sticky pain??

Thanks for your time.

Snehal

Don't see any images, but that may be because of newbi restricted access.

If you sand the flat surfaces to say 180 grit first and then try using a quality painters tape, you may be able to remove the tape after milling without leaving tape adhesive residue.

I have again attached the picture. Now, are you able to see??

No.

No images visible.From the description I am wondering if you might help by giving the top surface a coat of clear sealer before doing any machining .Something like shellac might work and it wouldn't be too hard to sand the glue off if any remains.The recommendation to use quality tape is one worth following.

Thanks routalot.
I would definitely try on the idea you suggested. Will a clear coat of varnish will do?
@Marv - thanks buddy, I will also try out your suggestion also of sanding before applying the tape.

Can't understand why you guys can't see the image. It is clearly visible in my thread.

If you're painting as a final finish, try shellac as routalot said. It drys very quickly and will bond to the tape well. You should be able to rout within a hour after applying the shellac.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by modi_shah

Thanks routalot.
I would definitely try on the idea you suggested. Will a clear coat of varnish will do?
@Marv - thanks buddy, I will also try out your suggestion also of sanding before applying the tape.

Can't understand why you guys can't see the image. It is clearly visible in my thread.

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No reason why varnish wouldn't work as long as the final finish you use is compatible with it.I haven't yet found a finish that can't be applied over shellac and it is fast drying.For images,are you attaching or using the reference from the icon?It may be that you are referencing a location on your computer and we clearly don't have access to that location.

I was going to also say to put some coating first. Varnish or whatever. Another method I use is to cover with vinyl. I buy large rolls of the white oracal vinyl for vinyl cutters. Goes on really and comes off without leaving behind anything.


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I guess varnish could work, I'm not dismissing that option, but I think that if you could put your hands on a sanding machine perfect for this job, it would give an even nicer finish. I mean the varnish will cover everything up, but depending on the severity of the glue situation, which I'm not able to get the hang of from the pictures, I think it might just still leave marks on there. You could take a look at Bob Smith Tools to see some different sander options if you want. It's what helped me decide on a sander a few weeks ago, so I really hope it can help you as well. Even if you already have one, it might give you an idea about the actual pressure you want to use on something like this, and the finish you wnat to leave.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MARV

If you're painting as a final finish, try shellac as routalot said. It drys very quickly and will bond to the tape well. You should be able to rout within a hour after applying the shellac.

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I like shellac, always works well

Medical alcohol is best for this purpose. Moisten a rag with it and wash off any glue left by the duct tape with a detergent.