Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
I have the same one I am re-wiring a Link Chinese CNC. What controller and software do you have? Jim 503-313-8064
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
I have the UCCNC software with the AXBB-E controller
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
Hi guys,
The first question is "How do you want to control it?".
This is coming from someone who doesn't own one of these inverters, nor has ever set this particular one up, but has set up plenty of others. So take this with a grain of salt. And your mother warned you about talking to strangers, so all the risk is on you.
The first step is to go through all of the parameters and write down what their original values were. This is especially critical of, umm, all of the parameters. So don't skip any. No, really, don't skip them.
If all you want to do is to start/stop/set speed from the keypad:
F0.01 Command source selection Set this to "0" for Keyboard
F0.03 Frequency command Selection. Set this to "0" for Keyboard \ Potentiometer
This should get your motor turning. If you want it to run in both directions, change:
F0.10 Operation direction selection to "1"
If 50 Hz doesn't work for you, change:
F0.04, F0.05, and F0.07
Accel and Decel can be found here:
F0.08 ACCEL time 1 0.1 3600.0s ? 10.0s
F0.09 DECEL time 1 0.1 3600.0s ? 10.0s
A quick word about mucking with Accel/Decel times. Go easy with it. You are putting stress on the electronics as well as the mechanics when you reduce either value (Accel or Decel). Reducing the Decel value usually will result in a "Bus Voltage Fault" when the drive tries to pump all of that energy into the (non or semi-existent) braking resistor and the voltage on the charge caps gets to an unsafe level.
If allowing the motor to wind down on its own is not a safety concern, then change:
F0.19 Stop Mode to: "1" Free run Stop
Now if your spindle needs to stop quickly to keep you from becoming one with the machine, in a bad sort of way, then use the Decel stop and patience.
If you want to control the speed from a remote source then change:
F0.03 Frequency command Selection
0 Keyboard ?
1 VI ?
2 CI ?
3 VI+ CI
4: Multi-speed
5: PID control
6: Communication
0 is the keyboard / Pot
1 is Voltage Input (I presume) and *should* get connected to terminals VI for the "+" reference, and ACM for the "-" reference.
2 is for Current Input (the previous disclaimer "I presume" applies. And it applies doubly here), and it *should* get connected to CI (for "+") and ACM (for "-"). But here's the kicker, they treat "CI" as either current or voltage input, but they clearly mark it as 4 - 20 mA on page 11. They also imply that there is a switch (presumably to connect or disconnect a resistor to convert the current input to voltage), but I haven't seen it elsewhere in the manual. You'll have to experiment with this if you want to control it from a current input (in this case, pictures of the input area would help).
3 You got me on this one. I can only imagine that it is for the PID control. More on the PID control later.
4 Multi-speed Usually you use your digital inputs to step to different speeds in this mode.
5 PID. This is the later part: Don't mess with it.
6 Communication. Modbus. This allows you to run the drive from a PC by sending Modbus commands. If this has been implemented properly in the firmware, then this is a very good way of controlling your drive. Starting on page 32, look at "F6 Communication Parameters" and select:
F6.00 The node address (might I suggest "1")
F6.01 Your baud rate. Just be in agreement with each other.
And here's where it gets interesting, and pretty slick if you ask me:
What you choose in F6.02 not only selects the standard communication parameters, but the Modbus mode as well. Cool! (Spoiler alert: ASCII mode is much easier to implement than RTU).
So set F6.02 to "12" to use the bog-standard N,8,1 as well as ASCII protocol.
Appendix "B" reads like an intro to a first level Modbus programming class from someone not entirely clear on the concept. Technically it's correct-ish (mostly-ish), but mixing the two protocols had me scratching my head until I did a search for where to set the node address. Appendix "B" also mentions RS232/RS485. There is no indication in the manual that they really do have a RS232 port on this drive. It shows the RS485 port on page 11, and this is usually the case on any other manufacturer that uses a serial port. RS485 works much better than RS232 anyways, so it's a good thing.
Other observations:
Some of the various control modes are well laid out and explained in chapter 6. Be sure to read them.
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
Hi guys,
I messed up F3.04, from 3 to 0 and off course I cannot use keyboard.
Any idea how to get back or factory reset?
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dougie8
Hello,
I am looking for some help with a Fuling Inverter and Spindle that I have for my CNC Router, I have had the machine for a couple of years now (Chinese machine), when I first bought the machine it was fitted with a Makita palm router, the guy I bought the machine from removed the original Inverter and spindle to replace with the Makita. I was provided with the inverter & spindle when I bought the machine both of which still look brand new. The guy informed me that he couldn't get the spindle to function properly (personally I got the feeling he didn't really know what he was doing with programming the speeds etc this was originally all hooked up to ncstudio) therefore the spindle and inverter was removed.
I am now using the machine more and more and would like to expand the cutter range that I can utilise as the Makita only has a 1/4" collet which limits the type of tools I can buy.
To get me started I am quite happy to just control the spindle from the controls on the Inverter, I therefore connected the Inverter up to the mains and powered it up thinking I would just be able to press run and away we go, however nothing is ever this easy!! needless to say the spindle didn't run, hence this post.
I have gone through the settings in the Inverter and tweaked some that I could understand from the manual, I have also checked the spindle is free to rotate as well as all connections and wires for any damage which there doesn't appear to be any that I can see. I also noted down all the setting values prior to making any changes.
Attached is a photo of the spindle and display in question along with the manual and all the current setting values including the defaults.
Could someone assist in helping me to get this up and running please?
The inverter appears to power up ok
Kind regards
First you have to post your spindle spec's then I can give you the parameters you need to set
Spindle Spec's
Voltage=220v
KW=
Amps=
Hz=
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
Quote:
Originally Posted by
caci072
Hi guys,
I messed up F3.04, from 3 to 0 and off course I cannot use keyboard.
Any idea how to get back or factory reset?
Can you still access the Parameters
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rootboy
Hi guys,
The first question is "How do you want to control it?".
This is coming from someone who doesn't own one of these inverters, nor has ever set this particular one up, but has set up plenty of others. So take this with a grain of salt. And your mother warned you about talking to strangers, so all the risk is on you.
The first step is to go through all of the parameters and write down what their original values were. This is especially critical of, umm, all of the parameters. So don't skip any. No, really, don't skip them.
If all you want to do is to start/stop/set speed from the keypad:
F0.01 Command source selection Set this to "0" for Keyboard
F0.03 Frequency command Selection. Set this to "0" for Keyboard \ Potentiometer
This should get your motor turning. If you want it to run in both directions, change:
F0.10 Operation direction selection to "1"
If 50 Hz doesn't work for you, change:
F0.04, F0.05, and F0.07
Accel and Decel can be found here:
F0.08 ACCEL time 1 0.1 3600.0s ? 10.0s
F0.09 DECEL time 1 0.1 3600.0s ? 10.0s
A quick word about mucking with Accel/Decel times. Go easy with it. You are putting stress on the electronics as well as the mechanics when you reduce either value (Accel or Decel). Reducing the Decel value usually will result in a "Bus Voltage Fault" when the drive tries to pump all of that energy into the (non or semi-existent) braking resistor and the voltage on the charge caps gets to an unsafe level.
If allowing the motor to wind down on its own is not a safety concern, then change:
F0.19 Stop Mode to: "1" Free run Stop
Now if your spindle needs to stop quickly to keep you from becoming one with the machine, in a bad sort of way, then use the Decel stop and patience.
If you want to control the speed from a remote source then change:
F0.03 Frequency command Selection
0 Keyboard ?
1 VI ?
2 CI ?
3 VI+ CI
4: Multi-speed
5: PID control
6: Communication
0 is the keyboard / Pot
1 is Voltage Input (I presume) and *should* get connected to terminals VI for the "+" reference, and ACM for the "-" reference.
2 is for Current Input (the previous disclaimer "I presume" applies. And it applies doubly here), and it *should* get connected to CI (for "+") and ACM (for "-"). But here's the kicker, they treat "CI" as either current or voltage input, but they clearly mark it as 4 - 20 mA on page 11. They also imply that there is a switch (presumably to connect or disconnect a resistor to convert the current input to voltage), but I haven't seen it elsewhere in the manual. You'll have to experiment with this if you want to control it from a current input (in this case, pictures of the input area would help).
3 You got me on this one. I can only imagine that it is for the PID control. More on the PID control later.
4 Multi-speed Usually you use your digital inputs to step to different speeds in this mode.
5 PID. This is the later part: Don't mess with it.
6 Communication. Modbus. This allows you to run the drive from a PC by sending Modbus commands. If this has been implemented properly in the firmware, then this is a very good way of controlling your drive. Starting on page 32, look at "F6 Communication Parameters" and select:
F6.00 The node address (might I suggest "1")
F6.01 Your baud rate. Just be in agreement with each other.
And here's where it gets interesting, and pretty slick if you ask me:
What you choose in F6.02 not only selects the standard communication parameters, but the Modbus mode as well. Cool! (Spoiler alert: ASCII mode is much easier to implement than RTU).
So set F6.02 to "12" to use the bog-standard N,8,1 as well as ASCII protocol.
Appendix "B" reads like an intro to a first level Modbus programming class from someone not entirely clear on the concept. Technically it's correct-ish (mostly-ish), but mixing the two protocols had me scratching my head until I did a search for where to set the node address. Appendix "B" also mentions RS232/RS485. There is no indication in the manual that they really do have a RS232 port on this drive. It shows the RS485 port on page 11, and this is usually the case on any other manufacturer that uses a serial port. RS485 works much better than RS232 anyways, so it's a good thing.
Other observations:
Some of the various control modes are well laid out and explained in chapter 6. Be sure to read them.
Yes a Grain of salt would be write, :) anyone can copy from a manual, you have to know what you are posting about to be of any help, so why did you post so much misleading information not revertant to what he needed
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
Quote:
Originally Posted by
mactec54
Yes a Grain of salt would be write, :) anyone can copy from a manual, you have to know what you are posting about to be of any help, so why did you post so much misleading information not revertant to what he needed
Hmm, it made sense to me, but I've commissioned dozens of these kinds of drives. Mostly AB, GE, and Cutler-Hammer, with a smattering of Robicon, Yaskawa, and Fanuc. But like I said, I don't have this particular drive. The OP is always welcome to ask follow up questions.
My current home benchtop project is a dead Yaskawa that I'm going to try to bring back to life. We'll see how that goes.
At work it's integrating a Fanuc robot to a Mazak lathe, including creating a new HMI for it in AdvancedHMI (free & outstanding software). The HMI allows the user to load a spreadsheet and the robot will call up the correct program, and then run the specified number of parts. With some assistance from the machinists, I'll be able to know where in the program the lathe is, and create faults based on an automatic time study of the first part. Just about finished with it.
How about you? Whatcha up to these days?, other than trolling that is...
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
Quote:
Originally Posted by
mactec54
Can you still access the Parameters
One would hope so. I read the manual as those settings are for the source for controlling the drive, not programming it.
The manual mentions an external keyboard, but doesn't elaborate. But I think that what they are referring to an external terminal (presumably through Modbus). Nor could I find a factory reset.
I did find this, which leads to operating/configuring it via Modbus:
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/phase...ming-mode.html
And I'm guessing that the value in the "Serial No" column is the Modbus address. And apparently it does work somewhat with Mach 3.
One of the posters also provided a link to his Google Drive with a somewhat different version of the manual.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2M...fZOaVmp2xSTByQ
Edit: The link from the other page didn't copy correctly, so I corrected it.
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
Quote:
Originally Posted by
dougie8
Hello,
I am looking for some help with a Fuling Inverter and Spindle that I have for my CNC Router, I have had the machine for a couple of years now (Chinese machine), when I first bought the machine it was fitted with a Makita palm router, the guy I bought the machine from removed the original Inverter and spindle to replace with the Makita. I was provided with the inverter & spindle when I bought the machine both of which still look brand new. The guy informed me that he couldn't get the spindle to function properly (personally I got the feeling he didn't really know what he was doing with programming the speeds etc this was originally all hooked up to ncstudio) therefore the spindle and inverter was removed.
I am now using the machine more and more and would like to expand the cutter range that I can utilise as the Makita only has a 1/4" collet which limits the type of tools I can buy.
To get me started I am quite happy to just control the spindle from the controls on the Inverter, I therefore connected the Inverter up to the mains and powered it up thinking I would just be able to press run and away we go, however nothing is ever this easy!! needless to say the spindle didn't run, hence this post.
I have gone through the settings in the Inverter and tweaked some that I could understand from the manual, I have also checked the spindle is free to rotate as well as all connections and wires for any damage which there doesn't appear to be any that I can see. I also noted down all the setting values prior to making any changes.
Attached is a photo of the spindle and display in question along with the manual and all the current setting values including the defaults.
Could someone assist in helping me to get this up and running please?
The inverter appears to power up ok
Kind regards
By the list you posted the first 2 columns are mostly all you need to get going you will need to set F0.07=400 so the rest should be at default there may be some that will need a change this should get you running though
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rootboy
Hmm, it made sense to me, but I've commissioned dozens of these kinds of drives. Mostly AB, GE, and Cutler-Hammer, with a smattering of Robicon, Yaskawa, and Fanuc. But like I said, I don't have this particular drive. The OP is always welcome to ask follow up questions.
My current home benchtop project is a dead Yaskawa that I'm going to try to bring back to life. We'll see how that goes.
At work it's integrating a Fanuc robot to a Mazak lathe, including creating a new HMI for it in AdvancedHMI (free & outstanding software). The HMI allows the user to load a spreadsheet and the robot will call up the correct program, and then run the specified number of parts. With some assistance from the machinists, I'll be able to know where in the program the lathe is, and create faults based on an automatic time study of the first part. Just about finished with it.
How about you? Whatcha up to these days?, other than trolling that is...
Just trolling as you say (nuts)
Yaskawa are easy to repair if the boards are not too damaged I have about 50 in stock different models servo Drives plus VFD Drives
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
Quote:
Originally Posted by
mactec54
Just trolling as you say (nuts)
Yaskawa are easy to repair if the boards are not too damaged I have about 50 in stock different models servo Drives plus VFD Drives
I'll pass that along to my friend. He's got two or three that have gone belly up and need repair. The panels that these were mounted in have no cooling or air filtration. We plan on fixing that.
The ugliest repair that I've done was on a Robicon that had the third snubber board short out and turn an old school 2 watt carbon resistor into a carbon arc/plasma torch, destroying it, and snubber boards 1 & 2. Punched a hole right through board #2, and melted off the traces on board #1. A bit of a rush job since it wasn't going to be all that long before about a thousand people were going to be standing around without trucks to build.
This was in the old Shreveport Truck & Bus plant and it controlled the air going into the oxidizer in the paint shop. No points for style, just get them running again. Looked like sin when I was finished, but they outlasted the new boards from Robicon (which lasted about six months before they blew up - same problem. At which point my boards were brought out of retirement and put back in service).
And as a guy who restores old Amigas, it's a rare board that is too far gone to repair... :)
Re: Fuling DZB200 Inverter
Hi there, i have the same inverter on my CNC router. But i have major issues with it...
When the spindle is off, it writes "U 310", and when i start the spindle it writes "P somevalue", but it is never the same value. If it's something like 100 or 80 it's OK for machining, but if it's 20 or 30, the spindle spins slowly ( 5000 rpm) and as soon as it cuts wood, it falls in error.
I ask always 24000 rpm but the spindle never reaches 24000, at most 19000. But most of the time it's about 15000.
So when it writes less than 80, i stop it and restart till it falls in error. And after it's OK.
WOW, it's too much of an hassle.
Do someone know what happen on my machine?
Thanks, any help is welcome.
