those are great instructions i'll use them when i have everything. if you got a drawing for making a draw nut extension adapter for my Drawtube i'd love to have it. thanks.
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those are great instructions i'll use them when i have everything. if you got a drawing for making a draw nut extension adapter for my Drawtube i'd love to have it. thanks.
Lol!
Pretty true!
Boat too!
i am glad you like them ; those are generals, i did not go into plate crafting tips, like, for example, how to check machine squareness, in-machine measurement, operations order and control, so to be sure that, when you remove your plate from the chuck, you will be as close to it as it can get ( a machine may be missaligned, and still allow to produce small parts ... but may compromise bigger parts, so you may need to know missalignment and adjust it from code, especially if you wish to obtain a plate, from a lathe, like from a grinding machine ) ... but maybe you find a plate in a local-weekend_market-for-2nd_hand_parts-and-other-goodies-for-machininsts :) ... you know, so to avoid spending 300-400$, and also to avoid machining it ....Quote:
those are great instructions
i don't ... i have for spindle, drawtube and chuck, but not for an adapterQuote:
if you got a drawing for making a draw nut extension
but it should be easy :
... od thread in respect to chuck nut
... id thread in respect to drawbar
... how to determine length :
...... remove your old chuck, but leave the drawbar inside the spindle ( fully tightened inside the hydraulic cilinder, be sure that it is making it's best contact back there, inside the machine - please read "footnote" below ), then put your new chuck ( roughly, just mount it, no need to adjust tir ), and position the jaws as high as they could be, thus be sure that your chuck is in a position that is close to full opened
...... measure the distance between the face of the nut that is inside the chuck, and the face of the drawbar ... also, take into consideration the length of the nut, and the length of the thread from the drawbar
...... push the pedal, so to move the drawbar, and, like this, you should determine the travel of your drawtube ( = travel of hydraulic cilinder )
...... close you chuck, so to determine the travel of the nut ( until the plunger nut hits the plate )
* should be enough to make a sketch :) and check for colisions, or, in other words, be sure that the adapter won't hit into something :)
check that the hydraulic cilinder has enough travel, so to allow also your jaws to fully travel; hydraulic cilinder travel is constant, but a bigger chuck has more jaws travel, than a smaller chuck, so is needed to be carefull : if your cilinder can not assure full travel for the jaws of your bigger chuck, then, nothing to worry about, if the travel of the jaws will be bigger then jaws seration :) tip behind this, is that is not critical for jaws travel to be maximum, but to be at least as big as the serations :) otherwise it will be impossible to clamp continously between, let's say 10 and 300, but only like this 10-12 14-16 18-20 ... 294-296 298-300 etc, thus you may loose clamping capacity if jaws travel is < serations :)
in the end, after everything is installed, tir adjusted, etc, there may be needed to make an adjustment, that involves rotating the nut inside the chuck, in order to set the jaws travel position ( jaw travel remains constant, only that it is entirely shifted ) :
... travel has to be simetric in raport to the sign that looks like this : " | |_| | " and should be located on the chuck, near jaw 1
... when fully opened, from pedal, you should be able to slide the jaws of the chuck, at least 0.1-0.15 each one : thus, when the drawbar is moving to open the chuck, it should not put your jaws into the maximum opened position, but leave a gap, that you may feel at hand : this means that the hydraulic cilinder made contact inside it, otherwise, means that contact was made inside the chuck, and if there is contact inside the chuck ( when the chuck is opened ), it means the there is a tendency for the hidraulic cilinder to push your chuck away from the spindle :) this is why, in a previous post, i said that you should look for a clearance between the wedge plunger and the chuck; if there is no clearance, it means that the chuck is always under pressure when it is opened :)
this cca0.1 gap can only be checked when the chuck is clean on the inside ... in time, chips get in there, and, you know ...
"footnote" : the drawbar is mounted inside the hydraulic cilinder not only with the help of a thread, but also being guided by a smooth diameter, that is < thread root diameter .... thus there is a guidance among a smooth surface, and, sometimes, this guidances is being shorted if the drawbar is rotated to much, in order to set the travel of the jaws ....
so, in the end :
... 1) drawbar guidance ( among the smooth diameter, not among the thread ) with the hydraulic cilinder should be as long as possible
... 2) jaws travel should be simetrical, in respect to the sign from chuck face, and > serations ( chuck is more rigid in that area )
... 3) is not a must for the nut adapter to make contact among entire thread lenght with the nut and the drawbar ... contact may be shorter, as long as condition 1 & 2 from above are ok, and as long as the nut and the adapter don't have a tendency to rotate during machining .... you know, wrap that band among the thread, so to prevent the nut from rotating .... inside the chuck, there may be a metalic sphere that was designed to block the nut from rotating, but it is not so powerful, and if you rotate your nut to adjust jaw travel, you will loose orientation in respect to that ball ... so use that tape; is not safe to machine on a lathe where the nut has a tendency to rotate, so be sure that the contact is not loose, but towards being 'fit'
... 4) be sure that the nut adatper is not coliding with something
kindly :)
ps : numbers from antarctica :
... drawbar thread length is 40, and nut thread lenght is cca25 ... thus, for M78, threaded assamble lenght is arround 25, even if at least one thread is much longer than that
... drawbar smooth diameter length is 13-13.5 ( for guidance inside the hydra cilinder ), and i always tigheten it to the full; when i adjust jaw travel, i always count how many turns i have used, so to know how much guidance length i loose in the back ... you know, so to avoid a fly-off drawbar; normally, only nut should be rotated, and drawbar should be steady, but sometimes they rotate in tandem :)
i am very proud of you :) seems like you found an easy way to get a boat :)Quote:
Boat too!
hey DK are you sure there will be threads on the outside of the nut adapter ?
also i was wondering about your set up if you don't mind sharing? do you like these SFR1M44-U100K USB Emulators? is that how you transfer your programs to the control?
hy :) drawnut requires internal threads, in order to mount it on the drawtube
the 12" chuck has a bigger drawnut, and it's id thread is > actual drawtube od thread, so, in order for a nut adapter to fit both of them, then the nut adapter must have od and id threads; however, you may avoid using a nut adapter, by using a thicker drawnut
please check also attached images; is it ok ? kindly :)
ps : i am sorry, i can't help you with program transfer, nor emulators; i don't use osp7000
Hi, my friend recommend me a service which help with programming tasks.
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understood thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by deadlykitten
i just got my chuck too so i'll be working on it. i posted a thread if you could kindly take a look. i have strange noise from the turret when i am indexing ?? ?
This is the B turret screen / G14 ? use page up/down or A icon/B icon chang screen /you can see the XA/ZA not XB/ZB
G13 FOR A TURRETQuote:
Originally Posted by smallworm86
G14 FOR B TURRET? i'd like to learn to use the bottom turret at the same time