Its not a connector. It is 2 small holes near the LEDs marked GND and +5V and J9.Quote:
J9? Kflop connector pinouts don't show a J9.
Or you can check +5V and GND on any connector. Be very careful not to short anything.
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Its not a connector. It is 2 small holes near the LEDs marked GND and +5V and J9.Quote:
J9? Kflop connector pinouts don't show a J9.
Or you can check +5V and GND on any connector. Be very careful not to short anything.
There is 5v across J9, but no lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by TomKerekes
Hi Gunmachinist,
It seems KFLOP has been damaged. Do you know what caused the damage? If you don't then the next board will likely be damaged also. What were you doing before the LEDs stopped flashing? You described a 15V Power Supply. Where was it connected?
I was never able to get kflop to work connected with the usb and was questioning having to connect it to the 15v molex connection. I know to only touch boards on the edge after touching somehing metal, so... Led lights only work if I connect kanalog with usb.Quote:
Originally Posted by TomKerekes
I don't understand what this means. There isn't any 15V molex connector. KFLOP JR1 is a molex connector. Did you connect something there? What do you mean by "it"?Quote:
I was never able to get kflop to work connected with the usb and was questioning having to connect it to the 15v molex connection.
It would be very strange if KFLOP works (LEDs flash) if connected to Kanalog but doesn't work by itself. Are you saying that the LEDs do flash when Kanalog is connected even now that the KFLOP doesn't work on its own?Quote:
Led lights only work if I connect kanalog with usb.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomKerekes
Jr1 does show a 12v (I was thinking it was a 15v, my bad I miss spoke) connection. I havent been able to get the computer to recognize the board so I can install the driver. All I've done is connect the usb which is as far as I've gotten because I can't install the driver. I was asking if I need to connect a 15v power supply to the 12v molex to get it to work.
Yes, that is exactly what happens.Quote:
It would be very strange if KFLOP works (LEDs flash) if connected to Kanalog but doesn't work by itself. Are you saying that the LEDs do flash when Kanalog is connected even now that the KFLOP doesn't work on its own?
Ok I think we are on the same page. As we discussed before the 12V is not needed for anything and is better left unconnected, although shouldn't hurt anything unless something is connected improperly.Quote:
Jr1 does show a 12v (I was thinking it was a 15v, my bad I miss spoke) connection. I havent been able to get the computer to recognize the board so I can install the driver. All I've done is connect the usb which is as far as I've gotten because I can't install the driver. I was asking if I need to connect a 15v power supply to the 12v molex to get it to work.
Kanalog has a 5V to +/-15V converter. This is why only 5V is needed to be able to output +/-10V to your Drives. It is also why Kanalog requires more power from 5V than USB can normally supply (500ma max).
Well that might be good news as it may indicate that KFLOP has not been damaged after all.Quote:
It would be very strange if KFLOP works (LEDs flash) if connected to Kanalog but doesn't work by itself. Are you saying that the LEDs do flash when Kanalog is connected even now that the KFLOP doesn't work on its own?
Yes, that is exactly what happens.
But I have no idea how this could be possible. We must be miss communicating somewhere.
To be clear you have just now tried KFLOP connected to Kanalog via the 26 pin ribbon cable, nothing else connected, KFLOP J3 inserted, connect the USB Cable to KFLOP, and the KFLOP LEDs Flash? Do the LEDs remain on?
Yes, they remain on.Quote:
To be clear you have just now tried KFLOP connected to Kanalog via the 26 pin ribbon cable, nothing else connected, KFLOP J3 inserted, connect the USB Cable to KFLOP, and the KFLOP LEDs Flash? Do the LEDs remain on?
I disconnected JP7 and JP5, connected the usb cable and Kflop lights will not come on at all. I can measure 5v across the two points you suggested earlier (J9) .
I can reconnect JP7 and JP5 and then connect usb and the lights will come on flicker and stay on (2 lights on Kflop and 1 on Kanalog). Both times the jumper on J3 is attached, connected or whatever its called.
Hi Gunmachinist,
Wow that is bizarre. We will express mail a new set of boards ASAP. Should they be sent to the same address?
Our support will contact you on how to return the boards. We'd like to analyze what happened.
I do see Jumper J2 has been removed. A jumper is required between pins 1 and 2 for KFLOP IO to work correctly, but that shouldn't cause the LEDs not to flash.
Now that I know I need a jumper on J2 and J3 to make the usb 5v work I am getting lights, but my computer still doesn't recognize the usb.Quote:
Originally Posted by TomKerekes
Hi Gunmachinist,
Strange I don't understand this. J2 should not make a difference.Quote:
Now that I know I need a jumper on J2 and J3 to make the usb 5v work I am getting lights
Does Windows play a sound when KFLOP is connected? Are you sure nothing appears in Device Manager? Before loading the driver "KFLOP - Motion Controller" should appear under "Other devices" with a yellow warning triangle.Quote:
but my computer still doesn't recognize the usb.
Would you like us to send replacement boards? If so to the same address? We'll include a return shipping label. We'd like to test these.
Does Windows play a sound when KFLOP is connected? Nope.
Are you sure nothing appears in Device Manager? Yes
Before loading the driver "KFLOP - Motion Controller" should appear under "Other devices" with a yellow warning triangle.
Nothing appeares.
Would you like us to send replacement boards? Yes.
If so to the same address? Yes, 1010 Bronze Trail Conway, Ar. 72034
We'll include a return shipping label. We'd like to test these.
ok thanks for the answers and we'll ship out a new set.
Tom thanks, the new board works, the driver installed and all is good for now. I'll send that other board back tomorrow afternoon.
Tom were you able to diagnose the problem with that first board?
Hi Gunmachinist,
We see the same behavior that you described. KFLOP boots but USB device is non-functional. We don't see any manufacturing issues like a cold solder joint or any contamination. An over voltage applied to the +5V input or USB cable would be the most likely cause. Those go directly to the USB device and not directly to anything else.
I've started wiring up the 1st mill servo and rotary encoder, is the; Basic Kanalog DAC and Encoder Connections 3 Axis #2, on the wiki page a good reference to wiring DC servos?
Yes that's a good example, There should also be a Digital GND connection for the encoder signals between the Amplifier/Encoders and Kanalog which I don't believe is shown. Ideally for best noise immunity use short, shielded, twisted pair cables for the encoder signals with a shield connection to Kanalog GND on the Kanalog end only.
Ok, I'm lost... I have wired up my Z axis according to schematic, Basic Kanalog DAC and Encoder Connections 3 Axis #2, the best I could figure out.
The encoder:
A B +/- is connected to JP1 #0
V+ and V com is connected to JP6, 0 and ground.
Servo Motor: 5 wire DC brushed
V+ and V- are connected to JP11 0 and ground and ground is to a gound in the box.
the remaining two wires(black and white) I don't know what they do, but I believe they may be information, but dont know. I connected them to JP13 0+/-
I attempted to run the starting configuration KanalogInitialPID.mot, I don't what is meant by loading it into an axis channel, so I found the file which opened in the C program window and won't do anything when I press Run. I did check the box #0 in the axis window.
Anyone with information on connecting existing servos from a previously retrofitted Bridgeport V2E3 or wiring suggestions?
Hi Gunmachinist,
Its not clear you understand you need Motor Drives (Amplifiers) to drive your motors. Do you?
The first step should be to not use KFLOP/Kanalog at all and test your Amplifiers as described here.
That sounds mostly wrong. Please don't power up the system until you understand what you are doing or you will likely damage another set of boards.