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Re: New upgrades to the ole Mikini. Servos!
Excellent work!
For reference here is the BT30 spindle in the SVM-2 head. The pink drawings are my 2hp Black Max motor.
Attachment 425532
Attachment 425534
Hmm, the SVM-2 head is looking more attractive now if I could just get it to fit on the linear guides and the ballscrew bearing.
Re: New upgrades to the ole Mikini. Servos!
Yep, that BlackMax looks painfully familiar.
To be honest, I think it'll be less work to make a top plate and a spindle reinforcing collar thing than fitting a new head. And if I ever switch motors it'll be pretty easy to redrill or make a new top plate - or even a sub-plate.
If it goes poorly, I'll just get some plate and weld/bolt up a new head with the dimensions & features I want. I'm not spending a pantload more on this thing - if I want an ATC or 5th axis, I'll have to find time to make it myself.
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Re: New upgrades to the ole Mikini. Servos!
Here are the Mikini head specs directly from Skyfire:
Attachment 425642
Attachment 425644
Attachment 425646
Here are some measurements from the 3D model of the Skyfire SVM-2 head:
Attachment 425648
Attachment 425650
As you can see they are almost identical.
Re: New upgrades to the ole Mikini. Servos!
Yep, they're close. Did Jan explain why it was such a PITA to swap heads?
And do you have any other Mikini drawings?
EDIT - you're right, they are about identical. I don't see why it wouldn't bolt up. And I don't see why the bearing blocks and ball screw wouldn't bolt up - center to centers and the nut flange circle are the same. The ballscrew nut might need a shim sleeve, but that's stupid easy on a lathe.
Thinking discount on a 2-pack from China?
Re: New upgrades to the ole Mikini. Servos!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
spumco
Yep, they're close. Did Jan explain why it was such a PITA to swap heads?
And do you have any other Mikini drawings?
No those are all the drawings I have. He said that the bore for the ball screw bearing was 1mm off and he needed to make some kind of spacer. He couldn't route the oil lines in the head and had to run them on the outside. Also it took forever to get it back in tram. Curiously he said the center center distance between the rails on his machine was 120mm. I measured and mine is 128mm just like the drawing. Some column castings don't have a way to access the linear bearing guide bolts from the back. Mine does, as did his, but like his mine are very small and probably need to be drilled out.
Defeng tells me that the SVM-2 uses larger ballscrews and larger linear ways, however from what I can tell at least the ball screws are the same (2005). The linear ways are similar sized but are a different type (RGW25 type).
Re: New upgrades to the ole Mikini. Servos!
Thanks for the details. I think I'm back to the adapter plates.
I've got a plasma table control system to build first, but once that's done I'm going to start tearing the old Turdkini apart.
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Re: New upgrades to the ole Mikini. Servos!
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Re: New upgrades to the ole Mikini. Servos!
NICE! Thanks for the servo cover details, that will help when I get to that point.
Just starting on my control panel for the upgrade. Motion controller and buttons will be remote from the 240VAC stuff - I have some analog FRO/SRO pots I want to keep away from the noisy drives.
Intention is to build a mostly stand-alone electrical/control package I can test on the bench without taking the mill out of service for an extended period.
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=427964&stc=1https://www.cnczone.com/forums/attac...d=427966&stc=1
Re: New upgrades to the ole Mikini. Servos!
Interestingly the inside of my head casting is nothing like the diagrams shown here. I took the bottom coolant plate cover off to replace a broken coolant hose and looked up in there with a flashlight and mirror. The entire front of the casting is nearly solid iron surrounding the spindle cartridge not a empty box as the diagrams show. It goes all the way up to the pulley so the cartridge in completely encased in cast iron. I'll snap pics at some point but right now I'm pretty solid on keeping the existing casting and just boring it out to 90mm.