Another 4th Axis Thread Fanuc motor Tanshing VRNC-210

I finally got a used Tanshing VRNC-210 rotary table here in the shop hoping to use it on my 2006 RH-19 with Cent7. During initial inspection, I found the Fanuc servo motor has a tapered shaft with a gear on the end of it. Finding info on Tanshing is not so easy. Not sure I can find a Yaskawa with a tapered shaft to easily replace the Fanuc. The nose of the motor is inside the gear oil part of the rotary table housing casting and has an oil seal.

Does anyone know if I could use the Fanuc motor that came with this and find a servo drive that will play nice with my Cent7?

Another option would be to pull a Yaskawa apart and machine a taper on the shaft and install a heavy duty oil seal.

Last option would be to cannibalize the Fanuc and use it as a jackshaft with a timing pulley on the encoder end running a belt to a Yaskawa with a timing pulley.

Attachment 478206Attachment 478208

Why not bore the gear to fit the Yaskawa shaft. That's what I did with a retrofit that had Fanuc motors with taper shafts. I just bored the gear to a light interference fit and heated it up and dropped it onto the new motor shaft, a nice shrink fit. I made a stop so the gear would be in the correct position. To make doubly sure the gear won't move, use a shaft collar and tighten it on the hub of the gear, this makes a very tight non-slip connection, better than a keyway.

I'm assuming it's a hardened and ground gear with a keyway. Not something easy to bore out. Tool post grinder with ID attachment would be ideal to finish to size. Still would have to figure out the oil seal.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gunmaker

I'm assuming it's a hardened and ground gear with a keyway. Not something easy to bore out. Tool post grinder with ID attachment would be ideal to finish to size. Still would have to figure out the oil seal.

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I guess I would try a file on the hub and see how hard it is. I would be surprised if it is hard. The Yaskawa motors are available with an oil seal option.

Giving it the old file test confirms it's pretty hard. I would assume a very precise gear. The file just skates across the surface. The hub is hard as well.
Attachment 478222

I'm assuming that's a 20 degree pressure angle. If so, McMaster has a 303 SS one not hardened and less percise for $70
https://www.mcmaster.com/2664N514/

OK, I'm surprised the hub is hard :) Normally hardened gear teeth are induction hardened and the hub is more or less soft(ish).

Getting a Fanuc red cap motor to run with anything but a Fanuc controller is more trouble than it's worth. Not impossible, but a real PITA. So going down that road would not be an option for me. I like your idea of using the Fanuc motor as a jackshaft. I think that would work. A little creative design might allow you to use the Fanuc mounting flange and rotor shaft, and build a mating housing that would adapt the Yaskawa motor and use a rigid coupling, keeping everything in line.

Turning a taper on the Yaskawa motor shaft might be possible, but I would not take the motor apart to do it. I would drive the motor with its controller, a bit of a creative setup would be required. This would not be my first choice.

Bench test

I got a hardened gear installed and now need to tune the servo setup using Sigmawin+5.75. Not a lot of info available for the older Sigma II.
Parts List:
SGDH-10AE
SGMGH-09ACA61
SiigmaWin+5.75 through a serial cable to drive.

Anyone have pointers getting this to autotune on the bench? Most of the videos are for Sigma 7 and don't mirror the setup I have.

Well I finally got the 4th axis running. However when I tell it to spin 180 degrees it spins all the way around. Not sure which setting I need to change.

I got a Yaskawa servo drive parameter list from Milltronics after many messages back and forth. As well as a rotary setup sheet to change a few control parameters.

I also want to figure out where the little homing program is that tells the machine how far to go after finding the home switch . Well, mine is now a prox sensor I had to figure out how to wire up using the prox sensor triggering a relay to mimic the home switch wiring diagram. Thank God for YouTube. I can move the little home block inside the 4th axis, but that's only a rough setting. I would like to find out how to get it homed exactly where I want it.

The final drive motor to table on this Tanshing VRNC-210 is 90:1

Here's a list of parameters I changed on the servo drive and control.

FileType,User Parameters Data File
Made-by,SigmaWin200 Ver1.13
DateTime,2007/06/01 07:41:20
SERVO-TYPE,SGDH-10AE


UserPrm,000,1
UserPrm,001,0

UserPrm,100,50
UserPrm,101,650

UserPrm,103,165
UserPrm,104,40

UserPrm,10B,0

UserPrm,10F,0

UserPrm,200,0

UserPrm,202,4
UserPrm,203,1

UserPrm,207,0

UserPrm,300,184

UserPrm,401,100
UserPrm,402,800
UserPrm,403,800

UserPrm,406,800
UserPrm,407,10000

UserPrm,409,350
UserPrm,500,7

UserPrm,504,7

Control parameters changed:

PPU 1000
Axis address label 65
Home Sequence 2
Positive Limit 50000
Negative Limit -50000
Maximum Feed 5000
Rapid Velocity 6000
Fast Jog Velocity 3000
Excess Error 1.75
Max HDW Error 1.0
Proportional Gain Same as X&Y

I can't imagine what a pain in the ass this would have been had I used a DMM servo motor and drive as I originally planned. The time I've spent banging my head against the wall is time I could have spent working on my client's projects. The $100 cable to hook up SigmaWin to the drive was only useful for entering all the parameters as apparently nobody knows how to use it, or is willing to share their dark magic.

Pretty sure you change PPU to get the amount spun to equal the amount programmed. So, if you got exactly 360º when you called up a 180º movement, you would change ppl to 2000 instead of 1000. Where the rotary homes is of no consequence, just that it will home and reset itself. Then you attach your fixture, indicate it level and use G54 A0 to zero the display to coincide with the level of the fixture.

changing to 2000 on the drive worked