Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
Second 3d part attempt-- had two tool crashes, scratched it with a file during post clean up, and it's showing me there's something funky with the diagonal tool path. (gibs too loose?)
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...20bfc47734.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ac470b8ef9.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...baff54e233.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a5312f97d9.jpg
Also went to the local surplus yard and it looks like they picked up a crate of scratch and dent motors from grizzly. Got this 3hp, 240 single phase, 3400rpm motor for $75. Looks new-- hope to adapt it to the mill head and take off the 1.5 up 1700rpm motor. I'm not ready for a vfd/pulley setup yet.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c5bb9e2c9a.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0083c6efe3.jpg
Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
Did some milling on the 3d part, cutting off the bottom with a 1/2" 2 flute in climb mode. There was significant chatter in the one x direction than the other-- same for y. The chatter direction was when the end mill was pulling the part and as table/vise in the direction to pull the gibs and ways apart, so it looks like I need to crank down on things.
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
New toys from Tormach, a superfly cutter and keyless drill chuck and holder. The superfly works nice--probably will be even nicer at a higher RPM. It did show me there's some front to back tilt needing adjustment in the column still as there was a slight step between adjacent passes.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...84ea5ba42b.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...13b2507db4.jpg
A cheap investment I wanted to try and see what the actual spindle and new motor rpm were. Precision Matthews states 1970rpm on the machine in the highest gear, but this sensor read 2034rpm with no load. If true, I'll take it.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...e2e994f50b.jpg
Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
After putting the flycutter to use on an actual part, I was seeing a step between passes, one just large enough to catch your nail. Measuring with the Edge pro tram gauge, I was seeing .003" in tilt over 6". I used a cheap set of feeler gauges cut up and put between the base and column in the back and removed tilt down to 2-3 tenths over 6". The picture below will show.
I also made my first jig plate and run of "production" parts for a friend.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9ed37e87ed.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...1f266e3027.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...022ad618df.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...bc4df5594b.jpg
Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
Hi 91.
I just found you this morning and plan on following you.
Thanks for all your info and pictures, I'm looking at doing the same. rngr1
Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
So, some issues I've experienced and just now encountered.
--Sometimes when I bang on the metal stock setting it in to the parallels it causes Mach4 to be unresponsive. I can "disable", then go into Config/mach/ and click across some tabs without making any changes and then click ok. This then refreshes the user interface, where I can "enable" controls and now jog my axis again. Not sure why it does this, and I can't recall if it happens while control is disabled too.
--Mach4 becomes unresponsive as above if I let it sit too long at random times. I fix it the same way as noted above.
--I can't seem to set the Z height properly when running a Gcode for the first time. It seems to always change depending on what first tool is called up even though I start the Gode, load the first tool, and then manually set the height. Perhaps I need to be using the offsets tab instead of the program tab to do this? Anyone able to give an easy how-to on this?
--My motor does not want to spin at full speed right off the bat in high 2 or high 3 gears. When I turn the spindle on, it does turn but maybe 30 rpm or so. I'm guessing the capacitors are taking a crap at this point so I should hurry up with the motor swap I wanted to do. In the meantime I'm using a cordless impact driver with 17mm socket on the drawbar to get the spindle up to speed and out of the capacitor's duty. It works but definitely dangerous to an extent.
--Last, and this is the killer for productivity today, is that I'm pretty sure my one driver died. I was in the middle of a run doing a drilling operation. Something was wrong with the cam program so the holes weren't deep enough. I stopped the program, jogged X to the one side so I had room to drill, and then completed it manually. When I went to jog it back it didn't move although the positioning on the screen did. I tried my refreshing trick and nothing changed. Looking down at the electronics enclosure I noticed there was no green light on for the X driver. (it's a KL-8082H from Automation Technologies) . I tested the power wires at the driver and had 72+ volts. Swapping location of this driver with the Y axis showed me the X driver was bad as it did the same thing in the Y axis slot while the Y axis driver powered up in X's spot. I want to open it up to see if there's anything noticeably wrong that I can maybe fix but I also wonder if it could be covered under warranty somehow. I doubt it though. Any thoughts on what could have killed it?
Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
The driver was no longer under warranty (over a year since I bought it) so I picked up a new one. It's not listed on the sight individually that I could find, but for those interested it was $129ish plus shipping. Plugged it in and was back in action.
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
I made a little bit of progress with attempting to adapt the 3hp motor today. The first thing in order was to pull off the top of the gear housing and see what I was working with for thickness. Initial measurements of the motors showed me I wouldn't be able to use the stock bolt locations, but luckily I erred in my favor and gained another .25" of adapter plate thickness. With the gear box lid off I saw how the casting was built up around the front two holes to allow them to be deep enough and threaded. The two rear motor mount holes overhang from the gear box.
My adapter plate will bolt to the 3 endcap holes in the new motor and using studs will bolt on the stock holes location. This gives me .5" clearance for the stud and nut above .25" of flange material. Pics below to show.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6ee10272f3.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...e34b1a672e.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...e235a919dc.jpg
As for the gear box, I was but wasn't surprised too see the condition inside of it. Gears, bearing races, and parts of shafts had rust on them and there was the standard dirt and grit here and there I could knock loose. The gear oil I replaced during this build however I don't see bearings lasting very long with double the rpm and said dirt.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...df28fb5b12.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0e4de801f3.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0e3da43c28.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ec12529abf.jpg
Last but not least, I never got around to a solution for oiling of the z ballscrew until this week. I picked up an oiling brush that attaches to pipe thread and has a thru hole. This will have constant contact with the ballscrew higher than the ballnut will travel and hopefully let oil run down the length of the screw over time. I need to finish running tubing to it and it's done.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...77aaa79cbd.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...342531d79b.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...241aa88921.jpg
Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
Adapter plate is made, but it fought me the whole time and isn't to the original dimensions. I think it'll work fine though.
You'll see spots on it where the chamfer was too large due to the previous tool having an incorrect length in my tool table, the one end mill pulled out of the collet some and left a small step during a final pass, I lost power to the mill at one point and thus my homing (aka attempted tool crash), and I didn't quite have the work origin set right in my cam so the part is now shorter in height.
I still need to bolt it up to the head to see final fitment.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...eda23ed4c2.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a1285b1b1e.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...3a77c3326b.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...821969cad8.jpg
Tighter fit than its supposed to be...some clearance grinding on the motor housing will fix this.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9ad93bb4e7.jpg
The output shaft turned down from 7/8" to 3/4"
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...1d6ae9ca5a.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...7c9c3a1289.jpg
Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
Looks like you're making great progress on your machine. Any idea what caused your machine to loose power?
Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
Yes, the dryer, air compressor, and mill/control box were all on the same circuit and tripped the breaker. No more doing laundry-- machining is more important!
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
Re: Looking to pull the CNC conversion trigger
Sounds like you need more power :idea:
I would probably trip a breaker if I tried to run my welder with the CNC running, along with the compressor. My garage is run off a 50 amp sub panel. But that panel only feeds my 220 equipment, and heater.