I wouldn't have thought so but worth checking I guess. Just make sure it's in HS-PLL mode.
Printable View
Hi Terry,
Yes, I'd noted Khalid's layout as a useful basis for adaptation to my keyboard. Your diagrams and explanation of 4-terminal key switch operation in that layout certainly helps to clear the mists. I'll get on with working out an equivalent suitable for 2-terminal switch operation.
Thanks very much for your trouble.
Joe
No Problem Joe, I just thought that a bit of clarity always helps. It took me a few minutes originally to get my head around what was happening. I've had a lot of help from this forum and I try to help with what limited knowledge I have.
I have built a keyboard using the 12mm Tactile witches and that pcb and it appears to operate properly according to my Multimeter, although I am awaiting my pic to get going.
Best regards
Terry
Hi Steve (Kwackers),
I'm looking for a 4 way plug and socket to connect the stepper motor to my version of the controller. I assume that the socket will be a panel mount type. I don't have much experience in this type of work and would be grateful for any advice on what would be appropriate.
Best regards
Terry
Terry
Many thanks for posting layout for the keypad. Now after looking at that I can finally understand how you can get 16 different signals with only 8 wires. This will no doubt help me understand a few other things about electromics that have been a puzzle to me. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with the rest of us.
Cheers :)
Don
Hi,
I bought an inexpensive K150 icsp programmer from eBay to program the pic for my rotary table controller. It is a USB programmer but it did not include any software or drivers. Does anyone have any suggestions for ths USB device. I have Winpic800 but it does not seem to recognise the programmer. I have searched for drivers but I am getting more confused as I delve deeper. My PC does not have a serial port and I run it on XP Pro with sp3.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I don't think there is anything special about these connectors. They seem to be regular DIN Circular connectors. I think the ones with the threaded nut are called "Locking DIN" connectors. I think the ubiquitous XLR audio connectors will also work if (a) the current rating is adequate [I think standard 3 pin XLR's are rated for 16 amps and 4 pins for 10 amps, either of which should be more than enough] and (b) you have room for the connector in the housing as they are usually much deeper than the threaded Locking DIN style.
Either way, "XLR" and "Locking DIN" and Google should be pretty easy to find a source.