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I have a 4" air operated chuck that I would trade you for the collet draw bar if your interested. The jaws open and close with air and has a 2 1/4" back plate on it so it screws right onto your lathe.
Did you machine come with any other hardware? Wrenches, paper work, etc? I have an owners manual and can get you a copy if you need it, but I think you can also find it on line.
Thanks for the great info! I'll take your word and go with the larger steppers and driver combo. I'm sure the extra ooomph will be handy down the road.
Another cnczoner had good things to say about the 3 jaw chuck with 5C arbor from shars. He uses it on his mini lathe with great success. I'd like to be able to use both collets, and a 3 jaw chuck and transition between them quickly until i figure out what i do and don't use the most.
Thats good news about the 2 1/4" x 8 backplate bolting up. I thought my options were limited, but a search shows many options.
You can load up some air chuck pictures, possibly interested. What's the advantage with that?
It didn't come with anything other than my tool post, which is a DTM TP65A (AXA Aloris). I'm not even sure if this is the correct size, or if its entirely to large. Will any offbrand "AXA" style holders work with this unit? It didn't come with any holders, but would really hate to invest in holders if they were the wrong size.
TP65A TOOL POST DTM
Unique double action locking device.
No handle rattle or loosening; no chatter.
Backlash free engagement.
Turning & Facing Holder #1A
Accommodates various square tool sizes.
Takes turning and facing tool bits. Saves time!
Turning & Facing & Boring Holder #2A
Accommodates various square tool sizes.
The "V" groove is provided for holding round shanks.
Heavy Duty Boring Bar Holder #B
Precision ground bore provides maximum rigidity for boring operations.
Set screws assure positive shank alignment and locking.
Multiple Toolholder #6A
Ideal for multi-operations.
Gang tool set-ups.
Form tool. Saves time!
Parting Blade Holder (H.S.S.) #7A
Unique blade lock holds the blade straight eliminating blade vibrations.
Cuts close to the chuck.
Use T-shaped high speed cut-off blade only.
Threading Toolholder #8A
Simple blade design ensures rigidity.
Use lower edge and reverse spindle when threading from shoulder out.
Locking and helix angle adjustment is accomplished by two screws.
Supplied with blade.
Morse Taper Holder #MT
Offers the advantage of power feeding by carriage instead of hand feed from a tail stock.
Easily centered. Saves time!
Parting Blade Holder (Carbide) #70A
Holds blade & carbide insert for rapid cutting with wide range width of cuts.
Cutting forces help lock insert firmly in blade.
Blade locking is simple.
Use the extractor for insert removal and clamp release.
Uses SGI series cut-off blades.
Uses GTN series inserts.
Knurling Holder #10A
Unique design offers two knurl positions for various stock diameters.
Rigidity is maintained at all times for better knurling.
Supplied with two medium diamond high speed knurls, unless otherwise specified.
Threading & Grooving Holder #81A
Tool design permits right & left hand threading toward or out from shoulder.
Accomodates inserts for various thread profiles.
Uses TNMA or TNMC inserts.
Turning & Facing Holders #16A & #16NA
Accommodates triangular inserts.
Holder is used for turning or facing operations.
16A uses TPG style inserts.
16NA uses TNG style inserts.
Will these holders or other AXA holders work?
Quick Change Tool Post Set, AXA - LittleMachineShop.com
Im sure your right about the 5C chuck and it will work just fine. I have never used one and I'm sure it will be ok.
As for the tool post the AXA size should be good for that lathe. I wouldn't want anything smaller as the AXA will only hold a 12mm or 1/2" tool shank. I have a AXA tool post on my 9X20 manual lathe and it works good. The aloris brand is really nice and expensive if you buy their tool holders, but thankfully most AXA holders should work so you can get cheap china knockoffs and they should work just fine. I get mine from CDCO and each tool holder is $9 to $10 each depending if you want one that will hold a boring bar as well as a cutting tool. Just make sure to replace the set screws right away as the ones that come with it are cheap and strip out easy.
If you plan to buy the boring bar holder and cut off tool holder then it would probably be best to buy the whole tool post set (on sale for $83) and then add some more tool holders to it. Other wise you could get away with just a bunch of standard tool holders for $10.00 each. I have around 6 tool holders for my manual lathe as well as the rest of the AXA set.
If you want to stay with the aloris brand of tool holders you can check out Grizzly as they have them in stock, or E-bay.
I will post a few pictures of my air chuck. It has machinable soft jaws and will open and close with air. There is a rod that attaches to the back of the chuck that has two nipples. When you apply air to the nipples the chuck opens and closes. I have no idea what the value is of this chuck, but I'm sure it was an expensive up grade. My lathe was set up so the door will open and close with air along with the chuck so you could make them work with an M code. It's pretty cool, but right now I don't use the air system as 99% of the time I'm running the lathe at night and my air compressor is loud.
The chuck has the 2 1/4" X 8 back plate for mounting.
chuck showed up. I mounted it up and it fit well. I used a Mitutoyo indicator that is a little sensitive 0-1" .000005" to test run out. I don't have any wrenches for the machine, so i just fitted it up hand tight but was getting about .0002" on the chuck back plate, and at the front of the chuck was seeing .003". Didn't have time to chuck up a ground test bar. I'll do that tomorrow along with upload a picture of it mounted. As for the Air chuck you can PM me, still on the fence.
Quick test shows i have about .00505" @ 2.25" from the jaws. Not bad for a $90 dollar 3 jaw chuck. For quick and dirty stuff, this will be great. I'll get a 4 jaw chuck later on. Looks like the Shars 5C to 3 jaw chuck is pretty good overall.
I'm debating if i should tear it apart, clean it, grease it, and reassemble it? Other peoples results seem to improve after cleaning a new vise.
You busy? Otherwise start cleaning. Test and report the results.
Originally Posted by diyengineer
Our company is Jinan Spc Laser Co.,ltd [ Shandong, China (Mainland )]
If you have any quesions,feel free to contact me.
My email is :email@example.com
Can I ask you for a hyperlink to the place where one can buy the retrofit kit? I have been looking at what is in Ebay but Before I make any stupid mistake would like to have a bit of advice! and basically I'm doing exactly what you are doing! I have a lathe and want to put a full set of motors to x y axis and I will probably make my own 3 phase motor so it can be controlled by the the CNC controller.
Thanks in advance.
If you want to keep it DEAD simple, buy a Gecko 540 http://www.geckodrive.com/geckodrive...ives/g540.html
Than add a C3 - Index Pulse Card (for RPM feedback from your motor so it can sync the feed and RPM for threading).
So even when you are only using two axis on your lathe... you still using a four axis gecko drive? and more important what driver you are using to get the gecko to work! because the gecko is just a drive for the motors not a direct interface with the computer? Please if what I say sounds to stupid don't be angry, I'm just trying to find out what can be done in the best possible way! I'm not in a very comfortable $$$ position.
Mark, the Gecko is the driver and breakout board. Its the full package. Yes you will be using 2 out of 4 of the drivers. This leaves you room for expansion, or in worst case scenario you have a backup driver. Its user friendly and fast to install. Since you are tight on $, and lack the technical knowledge of the overall conversion i would go with something easy, well documented, and is backed by a company who has someone on the tech support line 9-5. If your low on $, your in the wrong hobby haha.
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