Yep, still following this thread starting back from 2007 ;)
Good stuff.
Type: Posts; User: foam27
Yep, still following this thread starting back from 2007 ;)
Good stuff.
Run the drivertest program in the MACH3 directory, make sure you have a reasonably smooth line, and do what Gerry said...
Make sure Power management is DISABLED for all USBs / LPTs in device manager.
(right click USBs in device manager- go to Power management- Uncheck the box.) - referring to win xp.
Same goes...
Bad connection in white connectors on y axis motors.
Where the wire connects to the pin. It has been seen on yt.
For me, parametrics or not, Rhinoceros is the fastest.
Check the ports/ pins setup in MACH3. Maybe reverse the Step/dir numbers.
Thing is....
By the time the servos have to correct (because they are closed loop)
your part is probably already ruined.
I agree, steppers for the win, especially if you are just getting...
LOL, mine came from the factory that way ;)
Just get a chinese mill and convert it with ball screws.
Or, skip it and buy my freshly converted one. G704. ;)
I'm going to guess the motor couplers need tightening.
More torque is needed going up ;)
What kind of tolerance do you require?
Hoss, be sure you suspend that heated bed over the ally, I read about a guy that said that the ally sucked all the heat away from the element.
I'm guessing you knew that...just in case.
Complete package, contact me me for a better price than what I have it on ebay for....
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices
Sorry if...
91% isopropyl alcohol, CVS, walgreens, no residue.
Ordered mine a couple of days ago as well.
The big draw for me was the molded parts ;)
I just hope that it's rigid enough to handle higher accelerations.
I wish I ordered the bearing...
Not missing a thing, and I totally agree ;)
https://www.hypertherm.com/Xnet/library/library.jsp?file=HYP109602&format=pdf
Last page...pg 246...bottom right corner.
LOL, what a waste of money :)
I'm local in the USA.
A LOT more work to build it than draw it :)
jflachs34,
I'm in the USA, I have a cnc router, made specifically for aluminum milling.
Parker linear actuators that have GROUND ballscrews all the way around, debris protection, full T-slot...
Looking at the BACK of a male DB25 pin 1 starts at top right, if you look close they are labeled.
I usually do it like this, but you can vary it..
X step:2
X dir:3
Y step:4
Y dir:5
Z step:6...
At $3 I would skip building one, good one Al....
I know your are making the cable that goes between the printer port and machine.
You do know that you don't need all 25 pins right?
I usually run 4 wires of four conductor, and zip tie them...
If it's not to much trouble for you just make one, I do it all the time.
Shielded stranded 4 conductor security wire from Home Depot, and M-F Solder style Db25's and hoods from anywhere...
R/C hobby shops have all viscosity cyanos, including rubberized, removers, and accelerators.
91% isopropyl alcohol works for me.
I did not recieve the RJ45 to DB9 adapter with my LCTHC....
I can go buy one at the electronics store, does anyone know if it it a straight through, null, or other config?
when you buy these...
.
Dugpits,
I have the same vise for my 704...works great :)
I love How there is no flange on the back or sides, of the vise and that I can use it on it's sides as well.