Good to know 5" fits ok. Glacern has a sale on right now that makes their 5" look really good.
Type: Posts; User: amish_rabbi
Good to know 5" fits ok. Glacern has a sale on right now that makes their 5" look really good.
I've just been using the cheap 4" one from novakon but want something with a bit more jaw opening and maybe a bit wider. I'm curious what everyone here is using.
looks good, I've really got to get going on one like that for my pulsar. Looks pretty clean.
made a prototype for a holster hanger I designed. had some 2 sided machining and a bunch of tool changes. Didn't exactly go smoothly but it was fun to learn. Need some design and feeds and speed...
the piece in the middle is either going to be the only part clamped well or totally loose. Depending on if it is bigger than the side parts or smaller its either going to be a pivot point or just...
im not super experienced, but it was my understanding you should used 4 flute with steel. 4 flute is stronger than a 2 flute cutter and you can feed faster... altho with a 1/8" you might be maxing...
I hear really good things from friends about the mazak conversational control and know 2 shops that run mazak for all their lathes
any specific reason it cant just be two pieces of formed "channel" and then welded at the corner? I can think of a couple ways other than that to do it but they would require a longer seam at the...
easiest solution if your tools have enough reach to do it is to buy bigger stock than you need by 1/8" or so, machine the whole part (assuming that your part is a block with a hole in it) flip it...
look up design tables, they will let you enter numbers in excel and update a value in solidworks like that
you will probably still need dimensions in your sketch though, I've never tried to write...
I cant seem to find it online anywhere, but what is the radius of the inserts on a 25mm toroidal cutter?
I hope this isnt a stupid question and the answer isnt 25mm lol
click the stock check box when in simulation, then it will show the stock
played a bit with this on the weekend, ran well and was very familiar vs the solidworks version, just a few changes here...
nope, even simpler and I'm an idiot
the nozzle was closed lol.
side note though, anyone got a place I can order finer nozzles for the hose from? great volume right now but not enough oomph
I'm probably missing something simple, but I filled up the sump on the Pulsar and then turned on the washdown nozzle, worked great. Then I went into mach and turned on flood coolant, this is where...
not quite what I ment, you leave the material in the spindle and then just mount your lathe tools straight up. same as tailstock work
sure you can do tailstock drilling and boring, provided you have enough z you simply mount them pointing up in a fixture.
really, I would hand code this stuff though
google "tormach mill turn" and that should show you how to use a mill as a lathe. (alternately, it also works the other way around to use a lathe as a mill)
is there any reason to not use the following strategies?
•For parts in a vise, I generally zero X/Y to the left front corner of the fixed vise jaw--z on top of vise jaw
•For parts in a fixture,...
any chance you could just modify the post to tell it to just do a Z move when you call a tool change?
a "wrong" way to do it that I can think of takes advantage of the fact that if you don't home...
ordered the pro tram system, and I'm curious which way you guys tram your mills. I have just seen both lately
oh good, I'm glad templates and tool libraries transfer over
6" parallels are working fine with my 4" vice
you would be surprised how much stuff you can make with 2.5D tool paths. since you already have solidworks I would simply download HSMXpress and go from their. it Doesn't cost you anything and...
lol and here I was annoyed I had to go find a vga cable and vga to dvi converter when I got my mill because I haven't used VGA in like 10 years.
pretty cool. I have seen this used for milling knife inserts. to "dress" the fixture between parts they would just run a fly cutter across at 0 and take off all the glue that way
that's still 8x the cost of fusion360 for a year. If you have a business and need 3D for customers parts, totally worth it for full HSM, but that's not me.
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3501&category=1241045623
I picked this up just for the 3d. I have solidworks and HSMXpress and wont be going away from that for 2.5D but the 9k for proper HSMWorks isn't in the cards so for $300 I figure I'll try fusion360,...
well this should yield some pretty cool parts!