Sorry for the slow reply, I'm just seeing this. I don't come to the zone very often anymore, I'm just too slammed with jobs and I haven't done any new modifications to my machine in a long time. ...
Type: Posts; User: Devastator
Sorry for the slow reply, I'm just seeing this. I don't come to the zone very often anymore, I'm just too slammed with jobs and I haven't done any new modifications to my machine in a long time. ...
Thanks for the comment! Good to know that someone is still following my thread. I think I've finally found out why my Z is ignoring acceleration when I use my A axis. I believe it's my slow...
Thanks! This one was $500. A steal at that price. Good to mach 5+.
A bit of time invested in this one.
I'm replacing mine four times per year, so every three months. My jobs are never heavy cuts because my machine rigidity is low. Light cuts, but long run times, sometimes up to 14 hours per day. ...
FWIW, If I replaced my whole router every time a bearing went out I'd be on on router #21 right now.
I like mine. Been going almost 5 years straight on it. Rock solid except for one thing. I have to remove and clean the sensor a few times per year because I located mine close to the carbon...
After five years using the hobbycnc ezdriver I finally switched over to the Gecko G540. Through no fault of the driver, a flake of aluminum shorted out my Z chip. So after a few hours of soldering...
The profile is set up for A. But I've run it in angular or distance with the same result. I think it may have something to do with the high resolution requiring so many pulses to the harmonic drive...
That's what I'm doing already because I'm only using a 3 axis driver. So I unplug the Y and plug in the A, then load my mach profile.
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Ok, thanks. Been considering that...
I've got a problem that's been driving me crazy for awhile. When I use my rotary axis, Mach 3 is ignoring acceleration settings during Z retracts. Only after every "A" move. Anybody know a...
Nice job on the steel. I've done the same thing on my wood machine. Not something I'd do everyday, but it was better than my old method of using an endmill in my drill press, lol.
Finished in copper anodizing. Pretty convincing.
Thank you!
Machined area of 6" X 13". 7075 is just slightly harder than 6061, but machines cleaner because it is not as soft. I like the way it polishes too.
A 7075 aluminum rocket fin with bevels and polish. Finish pass was 1/8" ballnose with 5% stepover.
Good to see some progress! Sounds like you've abandoned the Nexen roller pinions?
Here's mine,
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=173325&d=1356059154
If you have access to that, I'd say go for it. Solsylva is only for people with no money or resources, IMO.
A good article in Popular Mechanics about the US Navy ramjet missile I machined the fin cans for on the Solsylva. Navy Builds Ramjet Missile with Model Rocket Engines and a Credit Card
Very nice joinery Mr. Wainwright! :)
A four jaw holds square or round stock. A three jaw holds round or hexagonal stock.
Not really. They are $29.99 ea. "Buy it Now". Vexta PK564BUA 5-Phase Stepper Stepping Motor NEW | eBay
Trick is finding them with the harmonic drive on them, but they do show up from time to...
I picked up a 5 phase harmonic drive plus separate driver for under $150 for both. Super high resolution zero backlash. They are used for high end telescope positioning.
Agreed, but I suppose a laminated beam of double tempered masonite might be really dense and stiff. It would be a lot of effort for questionable results though.
1/4" double tempered hardboard is much stiffer than 1/4" MDF. I've used it for rocket fins. The MDF would have shredded for sure.
If you are worried about price, you might consider the hobbycnc ez driver. https://hobbycnc.com/product/hobbycnc-ez-board-kit/ I've had pretty good luck with mine.
Gecko G540 is popular. Pretty much plug and play.
What's your "look ahead" setting in Mach?
In some cases yes, they are advertised for that however, your steppers should stall or the bit should break long before that coupler should break. Your new coupler is much better.
That's usually caused by misalignment and metal fatigue. Those spiral couplers are unforgiving of any misalignment.