you need to draw what you actually want with actual dimensions and they wont be $5 each either
Type: Posts; User: LSM
you need to draw what you actually want with actual dimensions and they wont be $5 each either
That's a job for a manual BP type mill no more then an hour total,
call around locally
Don't know why you would need a 3d model to bid this.
If you can't work off that drawing you have no business making the part.
It might be a 10 minute job to make a model from that drawing really....
quantity? makes a difference on equip needed
What he said
is it a cut chunks of a bar with a cold saw or a grinding job? or something in between
Don't need any 3d drawing that's a straight forward sheet metal part.
For some one with a shear only slightly trick part is the attachment part that you would do with a die
and you could get a die...
You have just described a boat anchor an orphan product that was dodgy at best when new.
it's time to move on come up with a different solution .
be grateful you aren't stuck with the orphan...
investment casting.
those wouldn't be cheap to machine, $100.00 a piece wouldn't be a suprise
the surprise is they didn't drop it years back
4th axis with a tail stock will do most any thing the pos would do.
don't like that get an Omniturn GT75 with caxis and live tool a true inexpensive...
not sure about your material choice
that bearing might need to be ground
Stress in the steel removing that much form just one side might make it curl when you unclamp it.
might have to straighten it if it needs to be nice and flat
you do know it's likely to curl like a potato chip
you need to break it up into individual parts.
housing is mill work shaft is lathe with live tool
handle is water jet or maybe plasma.
paw would be wire edm or maybe water jet.
ratchet blanks on...
Z axis isn't good enough repeatability to be moving up and down with DRO to be indicating the table
even a tool change introduces some difference
the calculations needed can be found in Machinery's handbook.
in HSMworks you just have to make a drawing of the form tool, that would be your threadmill.
key part is accurately measuring you...
mill around it then try and remove it.
hss em well that will die quickly carbide good chance it will chip.
Now show us the working product, any joker can buy a tilting rotary table and say they can make it a cnc table for the cheap.
But it's just hot air until there is a working one that is actually used...
what are you complaining about the Tormach rotary tables are inexpensive 8k is the normal range for a 4th axis in the real world.
and then you have to buy the electronics for the machine. that will...
It's a pain part to make not cheap material low quantity makes it expensive.
How tight not supper tight the cheapo wrench that came with the machine will do it
snug then about 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
but the threads on the drawbar and the collet have to be lubed
it will cut...
got to love it when people won't listen to the manufacturer recommendations and then wonder why it doesn't work.
you have to do it the way Tormach tells you or you will have problems.
first off...
Tormach has a paper on the web site about tool pull out.
You need to have some lube on the r8 collet in the right places so it properly compresses.
I had some pull out problems early on and a...
something like 316 stainless will polish up to look close to chrome and isn't magnetic
solid nickle would also be expensive but do able
might be tricky to hold on to
5 axis job
That's the point you will be hanging the part and stock off both ends of the machine.
unless you are actually cutting your mold into short sections think about how much a 10 foot steel bar that size...
It's the depth that makes it hard, drill bits wander,
.750 +.010/-0.000 is much easier.
once you have it drilled it's maybe 1/2 hour on the lathe and about the same on the mill to cut the keys
Find you a Fadal 4020 if you have room,
if not a VMC15, 40 or a 3016 they can be had for the price of a new tormach 1100 after you dress it up
you get more for your dollar with Fadal then you do...
You want 1 or 100?
only hard thing on that is the threw hole.
gun-drill it ream it then turn between centers to make it concentric
and cut the keys.
probably cost you around $100 at your local...
For the intermittent user a good coating of way oil is good,
machine tools should be covered with oil anyway.
WD40 isn't really a good long term rust prevented, way oil or some of the protective...