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Yes I used a small piece of rack. But you can't use the same rack, you have to buy a small piece that's mirror opposite. The seller can send you a small piece for joining rack for a fee.

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I've done both.

First one was aligned and was quite the mission.

Second one I made a plate that the gearbox was mounted to, it to allowed it to pivot and be spring tensioned.

First one was...

I've used the 5:1 reduction from AliExpress with there helical rack quite a few times, I think it's great for a router application and have no problem setting it up to step at 0.01-0.02mm no problem...

Not to sure, I don't think it's from shrinkage because the product I used compensates for it and minimises if not eliminates it. I think it might be from not sitting it down flat once it was...

Little update.

Let's start with the bad news. The base has a few hairline cracks in it so I don't know how much that has affected the structural integrity but hoping it doesn't.

The good news...

I guess we will see how we go, For me this machine build is all about testing things I've seen online, the epoxy is just the binder , I have a mix I want to try, it'll only be 1-2mm thick at the most...

I should clarify, a metallised epoxy paste, I've seen this done on a few German machine with fantastic results.

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Made up a stand, it's 4x 250mm channel criss crossed to bring the machine up to a good height. This is just a temporary fit together to make sure all my M16 bolts fit together, I'll strip it down and...

Still deciding what to do, I have a precision granite straight edge so I may scrape, epoxy level with granite or go get machined.

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Yep

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Here is the base out of its casting.

Had a few little voids that need filling but should be able to avoid them next time.

Chipped the front centre when prying off the timber mould but it will...

That all makes sense, thanks for taking the time to share.

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Forgive my ignorance, why be so pedantic about all these things, aren't you just building a hobby grade machine? 2+ years in drawing and tests seems a bit extreme.

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Pour is done, form is holding together very nicely. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20231103/c9c917cdb1b5c9fbfa22db00120fe470.jpg

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I don't live in port. In Albury now.

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Just some real world experience, kinda taking your word on using a class C grout lol, it does look like good stuff but still know little about it even though I've read all the spec sheets. Will be...

Have you done testing with the lanko 701? About to do a big pour.

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Form is all made up, all parts bolted in securely and silicon seals, now I just have to pour the mix then get to work on the...

Sounds like you've got it all sorted.

So basically your building what Piotr fox has already built.

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Used the CNC router to cut the forms, a few more parts to cut tomorrow then I can start assembling the...

Awesome thanks for reaching out.

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Here's some pictures of my table that I'll be using. It's 60mm thick and back filled with epoxy granite then just a thin layer of pure epoxy with black oxide to make it look pretty lol, Table size is...

Awesome, can't wait to see your build start.

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Looked through the 1800+ post here but could only see some renderings and a few test bricks? Nothing on a larger scale? Seems like you haven't settled on a design for your own build yet?

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Also, lanko are literally half the price of blucem and sika alternatives

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I'm in Albury. Bunnings seemed the cheapest for lanko 701.

Don't need a cement mixer, got a friend with one.

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Thanks Pete,
Will go and get a bag of lanko 701

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I'd like to think so. I worry about mixing up 200L one bucket at a time and having it go off.

I know you memtioned 2 hours before but others I spoke to over the last few days have mentioned it set...

Have you got any suggestions of a retarder to use to slow the curing process down for bigger pours?

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Hi Pete
How would you suggest mixing 200L of this stuff? Lanko 701 goes of pretty quickly right?

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