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The reprap wiki is always the place to start
http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Hot_End

Generally those hotends using PTFE as a structural material are considered prone to failure. Most use Peek...

When they released the Arduino 1.0 software they broke backwards compatibility in a lot of the libraries, so most reprap firmwares will not compile with it.
There are compatibility libraries around...

Assuming you know what a C Header file is it's reasonably straight forwards.
Download the 0.23 version of the arduino software (not the 1.0 release)
Clone the marlin or repetier git repository...

Even if it did you'd have to replace it so you could configure it for your printer configuration.
Mine certainly had a bootloader, but the first thing I did was upload new firmware, so I'm not sure...

I am using my PC with Mach the smooth stepper is just a motion controller, but it happens to have additional inputs that I will use for the mpg.
I could just put in an additional parallel port card,...

I have one sitting on my desk, that I need to find time to install and setup, might be a few weeks before I get to it.
You minimally need an additional 5V supply for the smoothstepper, from what I...

Bowden's have come a long way from the original work.
You should take a look at some of the quality from machines like the Ultimaker and Tantillus.


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I was already using a sherline when I looked at one and decided for the money I could convert a decent sized benchmill.


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You can use repetier host with Marlin, you just lose the advantage of the binary comms and being able to set the EPROM values from the interface.

My MendelMax is running Marlin, and I use Repetier...

I'd stay away from relatively high TPI screws to drive X and Y. Other than having to deal with backlash on the screw, your average 3D printer is running belts with the equivalent of about 1-2 inches...

Last time I checked 1Kg is 2.2lbs so it's at least false advertising.

My limited experience with igus bushings is they seem to have a lot of slop.
I just replaced the self aligning igus bushings on my Mendel max Z axis, because there was just too much slop in them....

This is the one I have

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170878475943#ht_3703wt_1202



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I have to admit I'm very tempted by that, just to see it run. Look forwards to your build.

I have one of the $140 complete RAMPS from eBay, it's as we'll put together as either of the US sourced...

Those are settings in the Slicer, the CAM equivalent.
Basically what the slicer does is take successive cuts through the model generate the g-code for that cut. Depending on the fill% it will use a...

The workflow is very straight forwards, it'd be a pretty dull video.

CAD is CAD, there are a few considerations you need to take into account, like how the part will be oriented for printing.
The...

I'd be very careful buying any prebuilt/calibrated printer, for the most part these things are not plug and play, and unless you know exactly what you are getting including support, I'd be very...

Unfortunately, it could be anything in the electrical path up to and including the stepper.
Because it's intermittent, it could be a crack in a circuit board or a loose connection.

I'd do a quick...

There can be a lot of variation in temperature even for US filament.
I have tome repraper.com pink PLA that likes 185, and behaves badly above 200
I have some UltiMachine transparent Green PLA that...

It's pretty much a known issue, the fix is to clamp something flat on top of it. Usually a piece of glass.


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Yes absolutely you can do that.
My point was more that it's not the equivalent of a smooth stepper, which if anything is over engineered.

There are a number of things I'd want to fix in the...

A smoothstepper is a significantly better solution (though significantly more expensive), I think he uses an FPGA as a pulse generator, and I think there is an arm chip on the board as well.

The...

My concern would be that even with a nonstick base, you'll still have two mated flat surfaces, so I think you'll need some mechanism to "break" seal.
Either way I'm interested to see how it works...

Have you thought about how your going to break the layers adhesion to the tank bottom?
I've seen a couple of mechanisms including tilting the build platform and more recently sliding the tank.

Interesting, what sort of epoxy are you intending to use?

Hotends.com is run by the guy who designed it and wrote the wiki page, I always assumed that Makerfarm sourced from him, but it's "open source" so I guess there is no reason for them to do that.

Here's the link to the 1.75mm conversion on the reprap wiki
http://reprap.org/wiki/J_Head_Nozzle#1.75mm_Conversion
You'd need a lathe to do it.

The Reprap wiki has a section on converting the JHead to 1.75, and it's more than just swapping the PTFE liner.
I did notice that you can now buy the 1.75mm version of the JHead from hotends.com for...

Cost is only part of it, for example RAMPS etc provide multiple temperature controllers driven from the Arduino PWM outputs. These are controlled by extensions to the standard GCodes.
To do the same...