I've heard of this also.
Type: Posts; User: 2muchstuff
I've heard of this also.
I tried that years ago, just watch out for those pallet shelving cross pieces. They don't move when your head hits them, damn near blacked out.
It could be bent- Did the timing chain slip getting things out of time. If so there could be more valves bent.
It could be siezed- Lack of lubrication, burnt/ overheated valve.
Either way the...
Your choice of spindle worries me. Even using a Dremel tool would be an improvement in quality. If cost is an issue search Craigslist.
Are these units made here in the states or overseas. What about life expectancy.
You've got my interest but I'm from the Show Me State........ so show me.
How much time and patience do you have?
A Dremel tool with a carbide dental burr, you know the thing that they drill holes in your teeth with. Start grinding a hole down thru what's left of the...
Sounds like a Posi-Drive chain. http://www.sdp-si.com/D790/PDF/D790C02192.pdf
The problem is your power supply in your controller case.
Any low level signal wires should be shielded, power supply wires don't generally need to be shielded. If power wires need to cross low level wires, have them cross at 90 degrees to each other...
Check out the tape transport mechanism used on an old VCR. They use a motor with an overrun clutch to move the tape in and out. The motor gets its signal from the processor to run a predetermined...
If you go ground it, ground it from the controller/circuit board side and leave the encoder side unconnected. Otherwise you could end up with a ground loop.
I would go with the belt drive conversion. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2560&category=1687114045
I made one out of a furnace blower motor and a few parts. Mounted the motor with it's shaft vertical and attached a large belt pulley to it. Attached to the pulley was a round piece of 3/4" plywood....
I would spend the extra money and use aircraft ply/ baltic birch veneer plywood. The plys are veneer thin with no voids in the wood and very solid.
Been there done this.
You will need to build a motorized arbor that will hold several slitting saws that will bolt to your tool post. The motorized arbor will be behind the brass rod. Machine up...
I'll dig them out, measure them, see if there is a number on them and get back to you.
Where were you two weeks ago? I trashed a bunch of them in that size. I may have a couple left but I think the bore might be in the 4 to 5 inch range.
I would double nut the spindle shaft to lock things in place, I'd hate to see it come loose.
Here is a link to a 556 PWM. http://www.m.case.btinternet.co.uk/html/pwm_generators.html
I separate my 6061 from the rest of my aluminum. A couple of weeks ago I got $.85/Lb.
I can't believe how the price of brass has gone up since the spring, almost triple. Now if red brass would do...
It's like JROM said, we are scrambling around for scraps. We as a nation are no longer in the manufacturing buisness. We have become a R&D nation with all the computers and stuff. The part is either...
Have you looked in the Yellow pages under injection molding.
It's not the cost of the part but the making of the mold that gets you.
I recently aquired a Nikon VM-SMD30 stepper control box which was part of a Nikon VM-150 optical measuring unit. Does anybody have a book or a schematic to the control box. There are 3 Intelligent...
The only belts used today in the dental industry would be on a lab engine. They are like the old belt driven handpieces but are table top units. Lab engines only turn about 5000 RPM at the hand...
Call around to local recyclers. You'd be amazed what they will buy if you have enough of it.
I agree, Acrylic is some soft stuff. The only reason I posted it was that they are small. The harder the plastic, the better the chip removal.
Check out the carbide burrs that are used in the dental profession. The only thing is that they are 1/16" shank diameter. The oral surgery burrs are a bit longer in length. Here are a couple of...
If I'm veneering plain basic flat surfaces, not compound curves, I use contact cement and a roller to press it in place.
Most of the ones that I've seen have had bronze bushings in them vs. ball bearings. Any good old time hardware store should have them.