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  1. #1
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    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    After over three months doing models in SolidWorks I've decided to start my 2nd build.

    My first was barely functional. It was a 17x17 all spruce frame. X rails are drawer slides, Y and Z are MGN12. No need to say I need an upgrade. :-D

    To give you an idea:



    Working in a cabinetmaking shop, I decided to work with a BB frame. This is the final design I made:


    This design should give a working area of 750mm x 525mm x 120mm.

    X Rails are 1000mm - 15mm profile
    Y Rails are 700mm - 15 mm profile
    Z Rails are 350mm - 12mm profile
    Ballscrews are 16mm with 10mm pitch
    Except for Z that will have a 8mm pitch acme screw with a preloaded nut. Made the design to accept a 16mm 5mm pitch ballscrew later.

    For the electronic, I have GRBL or Mach compatible BOB. I might end up with Mach, but I'm woking with GRBL + bCNC since spring 2016 and frankly, it seems more than enough for a hobbyist like me. This part is the least of my concern for now.

    I have 3 Nema 23 270 oz 1.6mH that will go for X1, X2 and Y
    Z axis will have a 195oz 2.5mH. Don't remember the exact specs.

    For the drives, I have a couple of TB6600 and an AM882. I'm going to do some testing to see where I put the AM882 but I suspect it will go on Y.

    I know TB6600 are kinda crappy but it will have to do until spring when I'll have money to buy better drives.

    I have several power supply 48v, 24v, 12v but I'm probably put my 48v - 10a adjusted to 40v so the TB6600 don't fry.

    Since I'm most exclusively working with wood, I'm keeping my small Makita router for the time being.

    That's a summary of what I'm trying to accomplish.

  2. #2
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Over the weekend I made the base: a 48 x 28 x 6 inches torsion box made with 3/4 BB:
    Attachment 347638

    I pays to take its time; when I put the straight edge on top of it, I couldn't see light between the top and the staight edge.
    Attachment 347640

    I even took another one thinking that the first one was bended.

  3. #3
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I assembled the torsion boxes for the sides yesterday.

    Attachment 347740

    I hope to assemble the sides to the base tonight.

  4. #4
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    How are you planning on attaching the sides to the base you made? Looks like a nice build.

  5. #5
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I wanted to use only lag screws every 8-10 inches but I'm going to feel more comfortable with lag screws and caprenter glue.

  6. #6
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Not assembled yet but I put the sides to check the fit with the base. So far it seems square enough so I can proceed further and attach the sides to the base.

    The base is way bigger than my old machine! That's the point of this exercise!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_7453.jpg  

  7. #7
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Hey! Your ATV has tracks on it! That is so cool.

    Your router looks good too :wave:

  8. #8
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Looking great! I like your design. Looks like we came up with some similar ideas. That should be a very sturdy machine.
    Jeremy
    http://www.diycncdesign.com/

  9. #9
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    1jumper: Tracks is essential in deep snow but my snowmobile is more fun.

    Jpvonoy: Thanks! That was the whole point as my old cnc is flexing too much.

  10. #10
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    It looks like it will be a good solid machine.
    Artistic 3D Relief Work for CNC http://www.cncproductionwork.com

  11. #11
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Didn't do much, I only attached one side to the base.

    I finally choose to glue the side using epoxy a there were small imperfections between the side and the base and felt that thickened epoxy would fill the small gaps (approx. 1/32) better than carpenter glue.

    I made a jig using 1/4 mdf to position the screws #10 screws. Then machined squares in MDF to position the jig exactly at 81mm from the top of the side.
    Attachment 348084

    Then I used the jig on the base to drill holes for the screws.

    I put a tiny coat of epoxy on the surface to be glued together then thickened the rest of the batch.

    I applied an even coat on the base then put the side onto it an fixed it with the screws.

    I checked 8 hours later and the side is still square with the base!

    Now I got to find the time to put the other side. Hopefully during the weekend!

  12. #12
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I attached the left side this morning.

    The base and side were pre drilled using my jig so I appled a tiny coat of unthickened epoxy on both.
    Attachment 348196

    Let it soak for 10 minutes. During this time I thickened the rest of the batch.
    Attachment 348198

    I applied the thickened epoxy on the base.
    Attachment 348200

    The kig did a good job as every screws fit perfectly.

    Now I let the epoxy cure I have what I think is a good enough base.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_7464.jpg 
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ID:	348202

  13. #13
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Had to wait for parts to arrive so I decided to test the AM882 driver I had but didn't had the time to test.

    Find the error on this image.


    The Leadshine is bulkier especially the heatskink!

    I plugged it to a 195oz 2.5mH Nema 23 and a 40v PS.

    At first, there is no whining form the stepper when it is at rest. This is a big plus compared to the TB6600!

    The drive was configured to 64 microsteps when I first started my test. Wasn't even capable of hearing the little ticking noise typical to a stepper when it moves.

    To have something to compare to, I configured it to 4 steps like the TB6600 on my current CNC.

    I was able to spin it to 15 000 mm/min or 590 IPM which gives 1875RPM. At higher speed before the motor stall and the alarm kick in on the AM882. I like this stall detection very much! At 1875rpm the motor screams!

    These RPM numbers are about the same as the TB6600.

    I also tried at 8 microsteps and the max is 8 000 mm/min or 315IPM. (1000 RPM)

    One thing I also like is the way the drive keeps the motor cool. After the same tests I did with the TB6600 driver, the motor started to get warm. Around 35 celsius using my laser thermometer. With the Leadshine, the motor and drive were as cool as when I started the tests.

    Now I need to do more search on Ebay to find three other drives for my build... For the time being I will have to continue using the TBs.

  14. #14
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Where di you get the AM882?
    I have 4 of them, from 2 different sellers, but have been told by some that the EBay drives are fakes.
    I haven't used them yet, but the last 2 I bought were only $59 each.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  15. #15
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I've got them at 69$ on Ebay; don't remember the seller. There was only one at that time and I only wanted the drive to test it.

    I really can't say if it's a fake though. Any idea ?

    I didn't open the case to see what's under the hood but even then I wouldn't know where to look to see if it is a fake.

    The little test I did yesterday confirmed that even if it is a fake it perform way beyond a TB6600, but One could say that the bar wasn't too high!

  16. #16
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I don't know how to tell either. I opened one up, and they certainly look legit to me.

    Have you tried connecting it to the tuning software?
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  17. #17
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Not yet.

    I need to build a RS-232 cable first.


    I found the pinout which seems to be :

    DB9 - RJ12
    2 -> 3
    3 -> 5
    5 -> 4

  18. #18
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I did connect the drive and ProTune connects without problem.

    The drive info Says that it is an AM882 and the year of the firmware is 2012. Looks like a real one to me.

  19. #19
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    They certainly seem legit, and I know someone that's uses a lot, and he's never had an issue with any of them. And at $60-$70 each, they sure are an awfully good deal.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  20. #20
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    Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Another step was done yesterday with the lamination of an 3/4 x 1/4 aluminium bar in the side torsion box to have something to tap my linear rail bolts.

    As per West recommandaitons, I did a slot 0.040 wider and deeper than the bar to make space for epoxy. As some place my crappy router kinda lost its way...
    Attachment 348660

    I sanded the alu bars with a 60 grit sand paper just before.

    Again proceed to wet out the wood then thickened the epoxy.

    I put epoxy in the slots then on the top piece of plywood and assembled the thing with clamps.

    Next step is self-leveling the place where the X axis rails will attach.

    Do I need to put epoxy on all the surface or can I just make a form where I have a strip of lets say 40mm under my 15mm rails and a patch 10-15mm wider than my bearing block?
    Attachment 348662

    Also, for a 1000mm span and 725mm between it, what would be the best way to setup the bridges? I was thinking of one 25mm wide in the center.

    West recommended that with 105/206 I don't go thicker than 4mm each coat.

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