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  1. #41
    I've been going back and forth about building one of these for a while. Well, I finished my 6000rpm spindle upgrade and now it's looking like a mandatory upgrade. I've ordered all the parts I need to build the system, but I'm not sure what coolant or lubricant to use in the system for use on aluminum. Any suggestions?

  2. #42
    Janice584 Guest
    I suppose it's now trial and error time although I feel that the 0.3 and 0.5mm tips will be too small to be of use

  3. #43
    After upgrading the motor on my G0704 I now have 6000rpm available. The machine cuts great with a 3F 3/8" AL end mill, but when I tried slotting with a 3/16" end mill I could see chips sticking to the walls and after a few minutes the end mill loaded up and broke. So I ordered all of the parts needed to make one of these misters.

    My question is what coolant would you recommend to use on aluminum? I don't feel comfortable using alcohol since my water heater is only a few feet from my mill. I'd also like to avoid oils if possible. I like the results I get with Relton's A-9, but I hate cleaning it off of everything after I use it. The local tool shop carries Kool Mist 77 and 78. If I don't get any other suggestions I'll probably try 77.

    Thanks,

    Chris

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    869
    I like the Koolmist that is environmentally friendly. Don't remember which number it is tho.

    Wade

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1542
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
    I've been going back and forth about building one of these for a while. Well, I finished my 6000rpm spindle upgrade and now it's looking like a mandatory upgrade. I've ordered all the parts I need to build the system, but I'm not sure what coolant or lubricant to use in the system for use on aluminum. Any suggestions?
    On tiny fragile cutters, getting the chips out is key, not so much removing heat. I just use an air blast right at the cutter. YMMV

    Karl

  6. #46
    I've been using an air blast and it worked fine up to 4000rpm, but once I sped up the spindle I started seeing this chip welding problem.

    BTW: Wierd. I looked for my post from the other day and didn't see it so I reposted. Sorry for the double.

  7. #47
    I finished my mister last night. I think it came out pretty well. I'm pretty OCD about clutter, but I think it is a pretty clean setup. I picked up a Loc-line kit this morning so I'll swap the brass tubing for a 1/8" PTC connector and run the line inside the Loc-line. Someone did that on a thread I saw somewhere but I can't find it now. I also picked up a gallon of Kool Mist 77 so I should be good to go for the next year or two.

    BTW: I have a regulator on my compressor, so I set it to 40PSI and set the regulator on the mister air line to 10PSI. It misted OK, but I don't know that it will clear chips that well. I tried 60/20 and that seemed better, but I still think I want more volume. I had a .060"ID nozzle on my air blast setup and it worked well at around 5PSI so I'll try it on the mister and see how that works.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Chris

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    23
    Hi, I am thinking about building the mister, but I have a "blank spot" in the old grey matter about the nozzle assembly. In the picture from Chris in the previous post, coming out of the mixer block there appears to be a brass tube with the nozzle on the end. Are the dimensions of this tube critical ir is it just a means of getting the air / coolant mixture to the end nozzle with its narrow (.04") opening?

    Thanks for any help

    ex-egll

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    4415
    The tube is just for transporting the already mixed air and coolant, the valve directly above is for metering the coolant.
    A lazy man does it twice.

  10. #50
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    24216
    I used a MIG nozzle as per link in Post #17.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  11. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    23
    Thanks, that makes life a lot simpler!

    ex-egll

  12. #52
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    198
    I just built one of these using a very cheap water filter canister. The clear ones at lowes were around $40.00, I found one that works perfectly on Amazon for $8.80. It uses standard 1/4" NPT connections and made for a super easy build.

    Amazon.com: 10" Standard Filter Housing, Clear/Black, 1/4" in/out: Kitchen & Dining

    -Jim

  13. #53
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    23
    Perfect timing Jim! Was just about to go and spend $30 at the local hardware store. The Amazon one looked great UNTIL I found out they won't ship to Canada. Found the same filter at AMI for the same price but they want $32 just to ship it.

    Thanks anyway!

  14. #54
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    2
    Hi Jim,

    I am thinking of building one of these fogbusters and would like to know where to get the plans for the one you built. Are they available?

    Thanks,
    Marty
    [email protected]

  15. #55
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    198
    Quote Originally Posted by mtaylor View Post
    Hi Jim,

    I am thinking of building one of these fogbusters and would like to know where to get the plans for the one you built. Are they available?

    Thanks,
    Marty
    [email protected]
    Hi Marty, the thread title is "How I built a fog-less coolant mister", so I'd suggest reading this thread.

    -Jim

  16. #56
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    284
    Hi Guys

    What are you Guys using in your DIY Fog Blasters (FB)? Anyone using a Flood Coolant Mix? I would think it should work fine. When I get around to building my FB, I want to be able to use the same Nozzle for booth Coolant/Air and Air. I think you can do this by adding a couple Valves. One Nozzle makes for a simpler setup plus you only require one mounting system for the Nozzle.

    Willy

  17. #57
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    53
    Willy, I Have been using Slugger cutting fluid. Mostly because it's the only water soluble cutting lubricant I could find locally.

    As for coolant/air and air only, this design already allows for that without adding any more valves. You just close the needle valve for the coolant mixture all the way and then poof, air only

  18. #58
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    23
    Hi, Finally got around to completing the project today. All went well until I opened up the coolant valve. No coolant! There was plenty of odd sounds and bubbling but no coolant. The problem was solved by putting a second needle valve into the system. This valve went between the solenoid valve and the mixer block. All I can think of is that the water needed more air pressure than the air stream to force it through the system. Anyone else come across this?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #59
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    4415
    Mine is manual but I installed valves as you have drawn. It gives you more control of the mixture at all pressures.
    A lazy man does it twice.

  20. #60
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    23
    Thanks, glad I hadn't done anything too wrong. Put the second valve in and the FB works as advertised!

    ex-egll

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