[lucas]

Good decision...

The chip is quite hot at currents above 2.5Amp and some other components also heat up depending on the supply voltage.
Best solution is a small breeze from a fan to keep everything cool, same applies to TB6600.
Cables can be several meters long if a decent gauge is used, I normally use shielded 0.75mm².

[JohnMiller]

Thanks lucas. Now I am prepared to continue wiring.
Just for double checking: Arduino(grbl) ports need to be high in idle state? Factory init is low (measured with scope).

BTW: I just bought at eBay 3 PC coolers Pentium 478 socket for the drivers with fan (for about 10 bucks!) That might be an opportunity for others as well along superiour cooling.

[_ID_]

I received my driver this week. I ordered it on ebay from Rattm Motor. First thing I checked is the contact of the driver chip with heat sink. There was a gap of 2mm! between them. They put some silicon pad in between. I shortened the spacers to make contact between heatsink and driver chip. Then I added a heat conducting paste an mica in between.
Attachment 264558

Next I added a base resistor of 330 Ohm to the transistor. Then I changed the 10k resistor in the RC time constant circuit for 20k. This way I gained a bit more delay before driver goes to 30% of current set by trimmer.
Attachment 264560
Measurements are done on the capacitor of RC time constant circuit. Settings on oscilloscope were 2ms/div horizontally and 0.1V/div vertical. The fed frequency was 1ms.


I also checked the output voltage on the V_REG pin and measured 4.67V. This is probably because driver can not supply current for all things that require 5V on board.

Then I changed the resistor for alert (pin1) from 510 Ohm to 3k9.


As last thing a looked to the output current. I took the measurement across the resistors on the R_NFA pin. There were no spikes or artifacts seen.
Attachment 264564
It's quite hard to take a good picture of this because the oscillogram is not steady. The settings on vertical were 0.2V/div so 1 division is 1A. I set it to 1.5A because I don't have larger motor at my hand. The feed frequency was 1ms. For a brief moment I set it to 4A just to see the output, but the motor went fast to hot. But the heat sink was at the end only a bit warm to the touch. Supply voltage to the board was 20V.

For now I can say that driver board is working good. Tomorrow I'll do some more tests at higher step frequencies.

[dmalicky]

I had a number of problems with the RATTM TB6600, detailed int this post: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/steppe...ml#post1233542
In particular:
1. The gap/pad, as you already corrected. It seems they put random length spacers in there.
2. Terminal block quick-connects can have intermittent contact, easily frying the chip and PS. I'd suggest gluing them in place permanently.
3. The amp pot turns opposite of how it should.
4. Motor hiss and whistle.
Have they fixed 2, 3, 4? If not, the Hayou is better for a 6600.

[_ID_]

2. Terminal block quick-connects seem good. You can not easily disconnect them (like pull on one wire), but they are not a good choice in general for a good contact. Gluing is recommended or change them for better ones.
3. Amp trimmer still turns counter clockwise for increasing current.
4. There is no signifficant hissing/whisteling comming from the motor.

I tested the board a bit more. I increased step frequency from 10Hz to 5.8 kHz. Driver was in 1/8 stepping mode and the voltage supplied was 20V. Above this frequncy motor started to loose steps (lack of torque). My motor is size nema23, 1.5A, taken from A3 old needle printer. I was unable to stall the motor with bare hand- had to take the pliers to stop it . I've runn it at 1.3A/20V.

[Carniflex]

Has anyone used this version of TB6600 ebay/aliexpress board?:
Attachment 264896
Attachment 264898
Attachment 264900
Seems different (smaller PCB) than the previous posts in this thread and claim "stepless" current regulation with a pot resistor. As it does not mention idle current reduction I have to assume it has none? So for that an external circuit should be used on the enable pins of the PCB? At least from the images it seems that for this version heat-sink has been attached properly with screws. So any comments on this version?

I am planning to do my first CNC desktop machine for learning the ropes and are considering using these because of reasonably low price and should be adequate for driving some steppers (currently thinking about using just 12V for 2.55V, 1.7A rated Nema17 steppers to be dr).

[H500]

The links didn't work.

For motors needing less than 2 amps, these looks interesting.
DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver FOR Sanguinololu RAMPS1 4 Reprap Prusa Mendel Delta | eBay

[Carniflex]

The links didn't work.

For motors needing less than 2 amps, these looks interesting.
DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver FOR Sanguinololu RAMPS1 4 Reprap Prusa Mendel Delta | eBay

Hmmm That looks indeed quite decent driver and unlike the H-Bridges I was eyeballing at first says it is taking step+direction signal. Somehow I have missed this when looking around the ebay for stepper drivers. So Thank you - this is indeed useful information. With a additional heatsink this little driver should handle the drives I was planning to use adequately (they are rated at 1.7 A max but I will not be needing to run them at that level as the first machine I want to do is only about 500x400 mm so rather modest).

The driver I was asking about initially was 4 5A TB6600 Axis CNC Controller Stepper Motor Driver Board CNC Controls | eBay - seems like some kind of new revision of RATTM board based on TB6600 but I have no prior experience with stepper driver so my initial impression might be not correct.

[dmalicky]

The DRV8825 is a pretty good chip -- just be cautious about the voltage as they tend to fry easily. Put a capacitor on the power inputs to absorb backdriven EMF, and get some spares. 12V should be no problem.

That RATTM is the same as the one I tested a year ago -- I'd skip it.

[Carniflex]

The DRV8825 is a pretty good chip -- just be cautious about the voltage as they tend to fry easily. Put a capacitor on the power inputs to absorb backdriven EMF, and get some spares. 12V should be no problem.

That RATTM is the same as the one I tested a year ago -- I'd skip it.

Thanx for a clarification. For some reason I had managed to get impression this one was somehow different - as it is not then I will better steer clear of it for now and will go with DRV8825 for now for the first-learning-the-ropes machine.

[Pichi_Arg]

Hello Lucas!

Have a question....
Recently, I change the electronic of my CNC (TB6560 to a new TB1H+DIV268N-5A)
I have 4 drivers with a HY-TB268-N6 board and one with the HY-TB268-N2.
The problem was 2:

1- I can´t disable the step motors when I pressed the ESTOP.
Tested all!, configuration ACTIVE LOW/HIGH, ports, wires...I just don´t know what´s up.

2- The N2 board has more power than the other N6...why?

I been waiting for you response, and, thank you very much!
Best regards

[JohnMiller]

Just an update:
My drivers from Lucas arrived , did well after assembly from the vey first moment. No noise at all. I monted the drivers on heavy PC-CPU heat sinks(cheap surplus) for dead effective cooling. I will come back soon with pics.

BTW: Glad you guys get Chineese drivers running well! :-) I was not so lucky.
Just a hint: If you get the HW running well please study in detail the polarity of signals. I observe many of you having problems with reversed signals. It is essential e.g. to have the clock signal in real inactive state while changing direction. Some drivers behave unpredictably when not operated as required.

[H500]

1- I can´t disable the step motors when I pressed the ESTOP.
Tested all!, configuration ACTIVE LOW/HIGH, ports, wires...I just don´t know what´s up.

2- The N2 board has more power than the other N6...why?

Measure the voltage on the enable pin when disabled and enabled.

Note that the China made drives tend to have different design faults, depending on which version you bought. Most require mods before they perform well.

[adytt]

The drive has arrived yesterday, I ordered a TB1H from First-Supply to have it fast (they deliver from the UK).
The one I received is a HY-DIV268N-5A witch looks exactly the same.

I couldn't wait to have a look at the inside and removed the cover.
The board is floating inside, it has no screws holding it in place. The chip is fixed to the heatsink and the board is held in place horizontally by the cover screws wich go through the holes but these have some play. See picture.
The chip pins experience all the mechanical stress when the plugs are installed or removed.

Next I removed the chip to have a look a the bottom side of the PCB. There's no thermal paste or pad..... and the mounting holes have some burrs, the chip will not make good contact with the heatsink.
Deburred the holes and remounted with thermal paste for testing.

I use a 33V supply, 4Amp Sanyo Denki bipolar motor and did set the drive at 2.5A and 1/8 microstepping.
The drive works but the stepping rate seems wrong, checked the swicth settings again .... Short story: the microstepping table is wrong, looks like 2 colums need to be swapped.

To be continued...

Hello I would like a little help from you guys if possible.
Last week I have brought a Hy-DIV268n-5A (N6 board type). (revision 3 as they claim)
I have brought online it locally in my country so I think I can exchange it for something else in 30days or so if it's not good.
If this also works at only 30% won't be any good for my project.
Currently I don't have the option to test it as I'm still awaiting for the stepper motor to arrive.

I have opened the case and I see there are some slight differences from the ones posted here.
- It looks like they added thermal paste between the chip and radiator and used some different parts instead of the 6N137 and build the PCB circuit a little bit different.

Could you tell from the pictures I attach if it will be OK to keep it, or should I exchange it for another driver.
Hope to get your help as my electronics knowledge is very thin, I'm just a beginner and I would like to know if I have the same bad product or this could be an improved one.

Looking forward for your kind reply.
If one needs more clear pictures I will use a better camera - just let me know.

[lucas]

1- I can´t disable the step motors when I pressed the ESTOP.
Tested all!, configuration ACTIVE LOW/HIGH, ports, wires...I just don´t know what´s up.

2- The N2 board has more power than the other N6...why?

1: This is a problem with your BOB or wiring, the drive should be disabled if the enable input is activated, but can't remember if I checked this.
2: The N2 board is the one I have tested here and only has 30% torque, you are saying that the N6 has even less torque???
I don't know why without having one here to compare.
The newer versions are even worse if this is correct.

Last week I have brought a Hy-DIV268n-5A (N6 board type). (revision 3 as they claim)
I have opened the case and I see there are some slight differences from the ones posted here.
- It looks like they added thermal paste between the chip and radiator and used some different parts instead of the 6N137 and build the PCB circuit a little bit different.

I can see some minor differences but can't read the printing on the 2 chips.
The revision 3 is even worse than the previous one if Pichi_Arg is correct.

[adytt]

Lucas first of all thank you very much for taking time an answering me.
Oon a closer look the 2 chips are labeled still as A 6N137 M 1402 RJ - yet the chips doesn't have sockets anymore - they are soldered it on the PCB itself, so I guess I have my answer is the same crap probably.
Anyway I'm looking to exchange it with one of this two, so any advice on these two is highly appreciated.

DM556D 50VDC 5 6A 256 Microstep High Performance Digital Motor Driver | eBay
Stepper Motor Driver 4.5A, 50V CNC Microstepping CW5045

I have a stepper motor Nema23 1.4Nm / 3A / 380g/cm / 2.4 mH inductance
will drive it in 1/8 (1600 steps.)
My power supply is 24V / 10A

Once again thank you

[lonewolf55]

hey Admin what happened to my last post in this thread ????

it was my first post here and when I selected the "Post Quick Reply" button, I got a message that said Pretty much... you post will appear after being approved by Admin, I assume this is normal for a new user at these forums.

should I re-post my information as it may actually be of interest to some ?

[A_Camera]

The revision 3 is even worse than the previous one if Pichi_Arg is correct.

Do you think that the information given by him is enough to say that the latest versions are "even worse"? Personally, I don't think so, since it can actually be his implementation or configuration.

[lonewolf55]

Do you think that the information given by him is enough to say that the latest versions are "even worse"? Personally, I don't think so, since it can actually be his implementation or configuration.

Hello... just before your post, I replied trying to give some info on the "New" N6 rev of these ebay drivers. I am in process of disassembly of one of these drives.

I'll wait for Admin to reply as maybe they don't want the info ???

[A_Camera]

Hello... just before your post, I replied trying to give some info on the "New" N6 rev of these ebay drivers. I am in process of disassembly of one of these drives.

I'll wait for Admin to reply as maybe they don't want the info ???

One thing which is definitely wrong with this card is the use of those five diodes. They should be removed and one of them replaced by a fast fuse.

Attachment 269506

Anyway, why wait for the Admin to reply? Of course they don't mind you publishing your findings, even if they are not personally interested. There are other members who would appreciate to see your findings.