[Bubba]

Jack,
If you want a simple reliable switch, stick with the earlier design. Personally, I have halls on my router and NO Leds. When I trip a limit, the controller says "Limit Activated" and the machine stops. Looking at it usually shows which limit is tripped. Back off that limit and away we go.
My story and I sticking to it. :}) LOL

[ger21]

Use the switches from post #39.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_s...tml#post758009

These are what I use, and they work perfect. I think most others are using the same switches.

Don't reference page numbers, as users can configure the # of posts/page, so it's different for everyone (I only see 24 pages, and your pointing to page 77).

[RicknBeachcrest]

Use the switches from post #39.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_s...tml#post758009

These are what I use, and they work perfect. I think most others are using the same switches.

Don't reference page numbers, as users can configure the # of posts/page, so it's different for everyone (I only see 24 pages, and your pointing to page 77).

What Gerry and Bubba said. This is what I put together. I have a few post about these in my build thread (later posts)
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wo...ter_build.html

[john-100]

Hi Jack

not knowing what breakout board your using , the components you have
or if you intend to use Vero board ( perf board) or just solder the component wires together

its not easy to give you a definitive answer but the modified pictures from posts 2 , 3 and 39 may help


Attachment 191650 Attachment 191652


John

[hollisin]

Thanks everybody you've been a big help.

I have an old Zylotec Hobbie CNC board. And mechanical limit switches now. I have a switch wired up and it looks exactly like the first picture from John. I am using 3 mm super magnets. They seem to work at about three or 4 mm. I'm going to RadioShack to pick up some of that board and try that. My plan is to cut out some of the plastic holders on the CNC machine and use the epoxy just like in the example. I just solder everything I've tried using connectors in the past and they just take up a lot of room much easier just to solder an shrink tube everything.

[john-100]

If I remember correctly boards like the old Zylotec boards have a screw terminal block
to connect your limit switch wiring directly to the computer printer port input pins

if you copy the switch in the first picture and the PC does not see the switch open
you may have to add a 2200 ohm pull up resistor , it all depends on the PC mother board

to save cutting open the switch assembly the resistor can be added at the Zyrotec terminal block
( one end to +5v the other to the hall switch output wire )


Attachment 191666


John

[ger21]

I use an older Xylotex from before they had screw terminals.
I use the LED version from post #39 wired directly to the parallel pins that pass thru the Xylotex.

[hollisin]

What Gerry and Bubba said. This is what I put together. I have a few post about these in my build thread (later posts)
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wo...ter_build.html

Rick,
I looked at your build thread and I ordered some of those deans connectors might give them a try since they're so small and it looks like they're an ideal fit for this project
Thanks
Jack

[riche543]

Yep same here post 39 is fail safe been running mine since that was posted & never failed me.

[Mick Gannon]

Hi all
new to the forum, my machine is small 400x600mm working area, my limit switchs are RS normally closed reed type wired straight in to 5 axis break out board (UK design board) when tested the repeatability was with 0.001" cost cheap but it works.

[hollisin]

Turns out I have a hobby CMC board not a xylotec. Above the 11 12 13 and 15 connectors there if there's a screened sentence that says pulled up with 10K (RNS). The home and limit switches were wired normally closed.

There is a small capacitor wired from ground to each one of the pins it has a value of Y5U 104M. What are these for and do I need them with the proximity switches here?

Aren't these proximity switches wired normally open?

There was a choke coil on each end of the wire is that needed?

[Falcon69]

my guess would be the capacitors are being used to help limit noise. My switches all have the capacitors in them.

[hollisin]

Finally got the circuit in post 964 wired up to a perfboard and connected it to my hobby CNC controller board. Tried a few different things to verify that it was working none of which worked. Finally went into Ports and pins , inputs, automated set up and just picked something and activated the detector. it picked it right up. After that I did a manual home Operation and it worked perfectly. I downloaded the DXF file and cut out some sample mounting brackets still trying to figure out how and where to mount everything.

[edoctoor]

Hi I have read the first five pages about these open source homing switches and I am very interested in the current list of electronics and the schematic. I think my cnc would look great with red and green flashing leds on my sensors and on my panel.

[ger21]

Imo, remote LED's for limits and home switches are a waste of time and money. They add nothing to the functionality of the machine. I never understand why DIY machine builders add a myriad of useless devices to their control panels just so they look cool.

I do like the LED in the switch to easily see when it's triggered, though. Nice for troubleshooting and setup.
I'd stick with the schematics in Post #39.

But, if you insist, look through Falcon69's posts, as I believe that he's the only one making switches with remote LED's.

[Mick Gannon]

I have not read all the posts on this posting and have to agree to the last poster that the limit switch is what it is, a switch, yes an LED to say it has been tripped and reset is good but not really needed, My opinion, keep it simple and it will work for a life time, don't add gimmicks, buy good known parts at the start of the design and ask questions to get the job done, or am I wrong?

[Al_The_Man]

I agree with the basic philosophy of KISS, but I must admit that the commercial Prox switches with the LED indicator are very useful for quick trouble shooting, especially when you get into the likes of tool changers etc.
Al.

[Falcon69]

But, if you insist, look through Falcon69's posts, as I believe that he's the only one making switches with remote LED's.

It's just not the added visual indication the control panel mount provides, but it also provides a duel led, green for normal operation, red when tripped. Also, there is a switch as well to trigger all LED's on to make sure they all are working.

I want to make a note here. Romanlini's ideal of these switches I got the idea from. John100 has helped ALOT in the designing of the schematic, as well as some others. So most of the credit needs to go to him. I merely took the idea from his schematics and help, and modified them slightly by adding protection circuits, and then actually making the parts.

Anyone can look through this thread and see the schematics and do it themselves, however, it's costly to have one-off boards made, and buy the components. For what I am selling them for, I feel is well worth it, after you add in the cost of labor as well. The new kits will have the switches cased in resin also. So that is a large part of the labor eliminated.

Again, the credit for my kits, should mostly go to John100 for the design of the Dual LED kits, and Romanlini for opening this thread and giving the kit life.

Jason

[edoctoor]

It's just not the added visual indication the control panel mount provides, but it also provides a duel led, green for normal operation, red when tripped. Also, there is a switch as well to trigger all LED's on to make sure they all are working.

I want to make a note here. Romanlini's ideal of these switches I got the idea from. John100 has helped ALOT in the designing of the schematic, as well as some others. So most of the credit needs to go to him. I merely took the idea from his schematics and help, and modified them slightly by adding protection circuits, and then actually making the parts.

Anyone can look through this thread and see the schematics and do it themselves, however, it's costly to have one-off boards made, and buy the components. For what I am selling them for, I feel is well worth it, after you add in the cost of labor as well. The new kits will have the switches cased in resin also. So that is a large part of the labor eliminated.

Again, the credit for my kits, should mostly go to John100 for the design of the Dual LED kits, and Romanlini for opening this thread and giving the kit life.

Jason

Yes, Jason you have dominated this thread since 05-25-2012, 05:55 PM and did the exact opposite of
of what this thread started out to be...
*This thread was open source but now appears to be your product.
*This thread was about the SS411A device but you disagree based on the ambient temperature of a AC shop :stickpoke
*This thread was about "Electronic home switches made easy!" now it is about your product; as a result, some of the
contributors are quiet, or in debate mode.
Jason, I am directly asking you to make a web page to market your product and to contribute to the other MAcGyvers that find this thread.

What happened, I just ask for the current schematic and part list and I get a debate; what is up with that?

I see that Romanlini hasn't written much since Jason turned this open source thread into a thread to market John's design... and OMG, I don't want to debate, about the debate.

I would just like to get past the marketing and get some expert open source information. I hope that I am not asking too much, but it would be nice if the marketing of Jason's product wouldn't be so overwhelming that it derails the thread. Is it possible for the others (ME) that are interested in the first five pages to continue Romanlini quest?

Congrats Jason for successfully designing and producing your product ;-)
However, I am not interested in your product; as this thread for me, is about "open source", the "SS411A", and
most importantly "do it yourself" home made homing sensors... please consider that would like the same experience
that you have had, thanks a million.

My question to you Jason, is your design open source?

If not, please let me get the open source information from John, Romanlini, and the experts.
If your design is open source, please provide your updates to your open source product and contribute back to
this thread.

I am interested in Romanlini open source do-it-yourself homing sensors based on the SS411A device
and I wonder if I can get some advice as I would like to have the same experience as Jason has had?

That said:

(1) The design to be using the SS441A device; because the experts that use and know how to debug electronics
and read the datasheets know that there is a major difference between a SS441A and clones. I would gladly
take their advice over those that haven't completed a electronics course.

(2) I have this Break-Out-Board

(3) I would like a bright green led to signal at the SS441A device

(4) I would like to contribute to open source

(5) I don't want any usb connectors as I am building a do-it-yourself 36 x 36 cnc that somehow ended up being twice the size as I did not have the heart to cut down the extra long linear rails that I found at Toronto Surplus; secondly, it is my opinion that usb connectors may be ok for homing sensors. But they are not ok in my opinion for limit switches. I would like to keep my homing sensors connections the same as the limit sensor connections.

(6) I would like two leds on my panel (red, green, not bright) to impress the ladies.

(7) I would like to use Romanlini mounts as they are perfect for me and I assume that there is gcode
somewhere as I don't know how to generate gcode from a cad file yet. I will be using MachIII until
I learn the linux version.

(8) I would like at least one capacitor to be used in the design

(9) I will be using 2 wire microphone wire with non-braided shielding

(10) Please, "No marketing" as I want to learn and experience from the team effort of this open source thread.

I hope I haven't hurt anyone feelings... (wedge) but it would be nice if other ideas could be shared here.

[Al_The_Man]

(10) Please, "No marketing" as I want to learn and experience from the team effort of this open source thread.

I hope I haven't hurt anyone feelings.. but it would be nice if other ideas could be shared here.

You can always start an independent thread with your questions in say, the Electronics Forum?
And let this thread carry on for those that want to follow it.
Al.