[Mr.Chips]

depends on your browser. Generally, right click the mouse and choose "save page as ..."

Thanks I’ll try that later.
Hager

[Mr.Chips]

If you are using an LED with less than 20mA supply current, you can use any (preferable a XOR GATE in this situation) Logic Gate. Simply wire the cathode to the output of the LED and wire the Anode of the green LED to the Output of the same logic gate. When the switch is on, it will show as green, supplying the Green LED with current, when the Switch is tripped, it would allow the Logic gate to 'sink' the current of the Red LED.

The input to the Red LED would be just powered from 5 volts or whatever voltage you have, with respect to the proper resistor in line to supply the proper forward voltage of the LED.

The Hall Effect Sensor output would got to one of the A or B inputs of the Logic Gate, (instead of the Anode of the LED as before), and the other input of the logic gate would be connected to ground. Most CMOS Logic Gates will Sink or Source up to 25mA, any more than that, you'll destroy the logic gate. But Your LED's will most Likely reach enough (if not full) brightness at around 10mA anyway.

Could those red and green leds be located on the console, a pair fro every switch this would show at a glance that all switches were on line and which ones were at the limit or home? This may have already been addressed as I just found this excellent way above my head topic. I need to add these switches to my DIY twelve year old CNC, been running manual way too long.
It would be nice if someone took all this information and put it in book form it sure would save many people a lot of time from going down dead end rabbit holes.
Thanks

[Mr.Chips]

The SS400 series need a pull up resistor from output to 5v+, if not provided.
5k to 10k

I had some A 3144 HE sensors and I connected one up on a breadboard and it works according to the LED.
Now I want try it on the C25S BOB PORT 1 PIN 10.
I have marked up the drawing showing where I think it needs to be connected, but I’m not sure, is it correct or do I need to make a different connection?

The other diagram (no led) is from the manufacturer and with that configuration it a digital output. Is it still a digital output the way the one with a LED is configured?

The A3144 pin out just like the SS441 pin out in this thread. In that case should I be able to follow the same wiring layouts, is that true????.

[mactec54]

I had some A 3144 HE sensors and I connected one up on a breadboard and it works according to the LED.
Now I want try it on the C25S BOB PORT 1 PIN 10.
I have marked up the drawing showing where I think it needs to be connected, but I’m not sure, is it correct or do I need to make a different connection?

The other diagram (no led) is from the manufacturer and with that configuration it a digital output. Is it still a digital output the way the one with a LED is configured?

The A3144 pin out just like the SS441 pin out in this thread. In that case should I be able to follow the same wiring layouts, is that true????.

I know you are having fun and learning, but why are you messing this primitive switching, for your machine you can buy ready to use proximity switches from eBay Etc. for little money that are ready to mount use 3 wire connection job done NPN or PNP NC depending on what your needs are

[Mr.Chips]

I bought two different styles and was unable to make them work.unable to find any wiring diagrams for them for a mach based CNC, seems like they are Arduino only???
Could you venture a guess how to connect them?
Here’s a photo of the two.

[Mr.Chips]

Better photo of connection details

[Al_The_Man]

I had some A 3144 HE sensors and I connected one up on a breadboard and it works according to the LED.
Now I want try it on the C25S BOB PORT 1 PIN 10.
I have marked up the drawing showing where I think it needs to be connected, but I’m not sure, is it correct or do I need to make a different connection?
.

They should work as shown, in fact if the input is a typical opto input you do not need the resistor as it is internal to the opto.input.
Those in the last two posts seem a little overkill.

[Mr.Chips]

They should work as shown, in fact if the input is a typical opto input you do not need the resistor as it is internal to the opto.input.
Those in the last two posts seem a little overkill.

Thanks AL, I’ll give it a try.
Hager

[mactec54]

Better photo of connection details

These are not the normal Proximity switches you would buy for a machine, they are very primitive at best not sure why these zone posters are leading you up the garden path

Here is an eBay number 142392448188 there are hundreds just like this, the choice is yours

[Al_The_Man]

they are very primitive at best not sure why these zone posters are leading you up the garden path

What zone posters would they be???
I don't see anyone recommending the ones in #1219 & #1220 ??

[mactec54]

What zone posters would they be???
I don't see anyone recommending the ones in #1219 & #1220 ??

Well there have been plenty of posts none of which gave him any help with what he should be using, just information on what he was trying to use which is so primitive and totally not suitable to be used for what he is wanting to do

[Al_The_Man]

Well there have been plenty of posts none of which gave him any help with what he should be using, just information on what he was trying to use which is so primitive and totally not suitable to be used for what he is wanting to do

The device MrChips describes in post #1217 is virtually identical to Romans original post of 11 years ago with almost half a million views!!
You appear to be against any DIY approach which would virtually negate the 1200+ posts where member's here, who are mainly DIY'ers would prefer to devise solutions in the course of building their machines, for maybe nothing more than the academic experience.
Yes, there are many commercial solutions out there and if you are a MTB who intends to equip a machine shop, then the expedient way would be to buy a ready made machine.
Many of those that come to a forum like this, are home shop DIY'ers and might take pleasure in the fact that they build a machine from the ground up as a learning procedure, rather than buy an off-the-shelf M/C.

Incidentally the subject of this whole thread is based around a magnet sensitive sensor, the one you quote on ebay is an inductive variety! .:tired:

[mactec54]

The device MrChips describes in post #1217 is virtually identical to Romans original post of 11 years ago with almost half a million views!!
You appear to be against any DIY approach which would virtually negate the 1200+ posts where member's here, who are mainly DIY'ers would prefer to devise solutions in the course of building their machines, for maybe nothing more than the academic experience.
Yes, there are many commercial solutions out there and if you are a MTB who intends to equip a machine shop, then the expedient way would be to buy a ready made machine.
Many of those that come to a forum like this, are home shop DIY'ers and might take pleasure in the fact that they build a machine from the ground up as a learning procedure, rather than buy an off-the-shelf M/C.

Incidentally the subject of this whole thread is based around a magnet sensitive sensor, the one you quote on ebay is an inductive variety! .:tired:

Remember Mr Chips his machine is10 years old he just started 2 weeks ago to add limits and Home switches He started with a regular Micro Switch which would be way better than this exercise

Yes totally against using a switch like this even at a DIY level, 11 years ago I to built some of these magnetic switches and made a better job than the OP did, so know what guys should be using today

Yes It is an inductive unit, that is what they should be using, unless you have something that is better, a lot has changed in 11 years this is a very primitive approach, and is not suitable for someone even Hobby guys to use today, they want something that is going to be reliable, these used for a Hobby router are not

[Al_The_Man]

Yes It is an inductive unit, that is what they should be using, unless you have something that is better, a lot has changed in 11 years this is a very primitive approach,

The three common types of hall proximity sensors have been around for many decades, I can attest to that, I have used them since their inception.

they want something that is going to be reliable, these used for a Hobby router are not

You are entitled to your opinion.

[Mr.Chips]

The three common types of hall proximity sensors have been around for many decades, I can attest to that, I have used them since their inception.



You are entitled to your opinion.

Your right AL, I built my CNC from scratch with the help of many members just like you. My shortcoming is electronics. And I’ve got the DIY Hall Effect figured out and working thanks to you all. I ran my CNC for about twelve years without limits and homes or auto zero but in order to get Gerrys 2010 Screen set working I have to have them all. While I was figuring out the Hall Effects and wondering if it’s going to work I finished installing mechanical switches on my X and Y axis three switches each, had to order a couple more for the Y slave home and the Z home, I robbed thoes two when I added the third switch to the Y and X axis.in reading about the real value of the Hall Effect switches I will switch over to them after the 2010 screen set is running. I’m not abandoning you guys just pausing for a while. It was easier for me to do the mechanical switches just to get Gerrys SW running.
My two switches I’m short will be in Monday. So at that time I’ll be ready to get all of them adjusted and ready for the next step in the getting the 2010 screenset working. I’m gonna need help then, because the instructions assume a lot that just isn’t natural for me.
Thank you all in seeing me be successful with Hall effects.
Hager

[machinehop5]

Thanks Chips
...chicken or the egg of history
https://www.newscientist.com/questio...t-chicken-egg/

[mactec54]

The three common types of hall proximity sensors have been around for many decades, I can attest to that, I have used them since their inception.

You are entitled to your opinion.

Yes some of us know what is best for the hobby user, and some just pretend to know

Please tell us the last time you used a magnetic activated proximity switch, and on what machine, and why it was used

They all have there place, the use of a magnetic activated switches are normally only used for machine safety lockout panels, pneumatics also use them on the cylinder for stroke control and of course they are used everywhere in the home security mostly magnetic activated reed switch's

11 years ago this was a great project to make your own, as proximity switches of any type where to expensive to buy for the hobby user, but today with them being so cheap anyone can use them, buy them in a sealed unit which are reliable easy to install, and can be used in any conditions

[Al_The_Man]

Your right AL, I built my CNC from scratch with the help of many members just like you. My shortcoming is electronics. And I’ve got the DIY Hall Effect figured out and working thanks to you all.
Hager

Good luck with your endeavors.

[Mr.Chips]

Thanks Chips
...chicken or the egg of history
https://www.newscientist.com/questio...t-chicken-egg/

LOL,
In this situation it’s a functioning Chicken where the farmer (me) and the chicken (all the switches and switches and related wiring). Know what their job is to run the machine as it is now.
The the coming egg, when hatched will have all the Hall effect switches connected up and the 2010 software figured out and all the functions working. That’s the one I’m waiting for.
Meanwhile that egg is being formed and growing. So I have to keep it warm so it will hatch and be the new high tech chicken on this ranch.
I’ll be ending this thread and posting the next round of questions to keep this egg warm.
Thank you all
Hager

[mactec54]

LOL,
In this situation it’s a functioning Chicken where the farmer (me) and the chicken (all the switches and switches and related wiring). Know what their job is to run the machine as it is now.
The the coming egg, when hatched will have all the Hall effect switches connected up and the 2010 software figured out and all the functions working. That’s the one I’m waiting for.
Meanwhile that egg is being formed and growing. So I have to keep it warm so it will hatch and be the new high tech chicken on this ranch.
I’ll be ending this thread and posting the next round of questions to keep this egg warm.
Thank you all
Hager

I would not worry to much about the coming egg as it may not be what you would expect it to be

Here is a PDF for you, it may help the egg to hatch