[SSN Vet]

One of the mechanics in our maintenance dept. at work suggested using vegatable oil or non-stick cooking spray (i.e. PAM) for cutting aluminum the other day.

So I gave it a try on some small practice parts over the weekend and it seemed to work quite well....

but then again, it's not like I have a wealth of experience to base any judgement on.

I have several parts to machine as part of my X3 conversion and won't be able to set up any kind of mist or flood system for a while.

Is PAM a viable option for now?

Any other recommendations?

[Fastest1]

Why not? Seems like it should work. I have used WD40, tapping fluids, 3n1 and charcoal lighter. All have worked well. Kerosene/charcoal lighter fluid on flycutting aluminum is fantastic.

[Arich0908]

I love WD40 I have used 2stroke oil also just because ..

[Teyber12]

i brazed 2 lengths of cap tube to a small copper block (1/2"x.75" x .25" thick) with a hole in the block, with the block screwed into my mill head. then i brazed a 1/4" air supply female onto the other end so i just run 30-40 psi to it and run it right on the tip. Its unbelievable the difference in speeds i can run without having to worry about clearing chips and the finish is much better. its so much more convenient then flood or something as well.

just food for thought. i was breaking so many 1/8" end mills before.

cheers

[SSN Vet]

I liked the PAM (generic version actually) as it is kind of sticky and waxy like chain oil... so it even clings to vertical surfaces.

All I have to do is pinch a can from the pantry and I don't get any flack about "all the money" I spend on hobbies and tools. :cheers:

Kerosene/charcoal lighter fluid on flycutting aluminum is fantastic.

speaking of which... learnign how to fly cut is one of my next test projects....

I picked up this cheap little set @ Grizzly ...



any recommendation on spindle speed or depth of cut for facing 6061?

largest head dia. is 1.375"

how far out do you think I can run the carbide insert?

[fragger6662000]

GT85 is really good with ally. It don't smell too bad as well.

[3d GEORGE]

I have this set, works great. 1/4 IC triangular insert lathe tools of brazed turning tools work great. 800 to 1000 rpm .002" to .005" depth of cut with feed to control surface finish. I've found these fly cutters best for finishing rather than stock removal. Chatter and screeching can be a problem. Good luck.

[allenj20]

I use coconut oil in my shop in little jars with an acid brush.

The master machinist that taught me metalwork at the CU physics lab got me started using coconut oil. He used it throughout the shop as a tapping and cutting fluid. As he pointed out the Japanese in World War 2 used it for all their machining because petroleum was in short supply. It's non toxic and smells really good and in a pinch you can pop some popcorn in it if you get hungry. :rainfro:

[knudsen]

I run them a fast as I can, which depends on how well the cutter is balanced. Finish is usually best at higher speeds, shallow cuts and slow, steady feeds.

You probably want all the screws engaged in the tool holder, so you won't be able to have the indexed cutter sticking out too far. Also, if it sticks out very far, it will affect the balance and rigidity of the tool.

[ChrisPDX]

I never thought of using cooking oil, I'll have to give it a try sometime. Something like this may be useful if you want to save money on buying cans of spray: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Misto-Gourmet-Brushed-Aluminum-Sprayer/dp/B00004SPZV/ref=pd_sim_k_2"]Amazon.com: Misto Gourmet Brushed Aluminum Olive Oil Sprayer: Kitchen & Dining[/ame]

I would caution that you only use the finest extra virgin olive oil on your machines

-Chris

[knudsen]

I always wanted an extra virgin :rainfro:

Thanks for the link; I'm going to get two, one for the shop and one for the kitchen!

[slatronic]

The only thing I would worry about when using cooking oils is their smoke point. I know EVOO has a low smoke point compared to say regular old grocery store vegetable oil blend . Looks like safflower or avocado oil has the highest at over 500 degrees. Probably the easiest to find would be corn or canola oil. Gonna have to give it a try.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoke_point

slater

[fatal-exception]

Why not just get some water soluble oil coolant and mix it in a spray bottle? This is what the stuff was developed for in the first case! It's probably a damn side cheaper than wd40 or Pam.

Right tool for the job, right lube for the tool...

[Fastest1]

I liked the PAM (generic version actually) as it is kind of sticky and waxy like chain oil... so it even clings to vertical surfaces.

All I have to do is pinch a can from the pantry and I don't get any flack about "all the money" I spend on hobbies and tools. :cheers:



speaking of which... learnign how to fly cut is one of my next test projects....

I picked up this cheap little set @ Grizzly ...



any recommendation on spindle speed or depth of cut for facing 6061?

largest head dia. is 1.375"

how far out do you think I can run the carbide insert?

You will love flycutting! The finishes are great and when playing with overlaps you can make many different patterns. I find a slow rpm almost a chattering sound seems to work best on my Sherline. Oh yeah and patience.

[Teyber12]

Why not just get some water soluble oil coolant and mix it in a spray bottle? This is what the stuff was developed for in the first case! It's probably a damn side cheaper than wd40 or Pam.

Right tool for the job, right lube for the tool...

this way you can clear chips as well by squirting the mix at the cutter, when you pre-apply a cutting lube there is no chip clearing action

[allenj20]

Why not just get some water soluble oil coolant and mix it in a spray bottle? This is what the stuff was developed for in the first case! It's probably a damn side cheaper than wd40 or Pam.

Right tool for the job, right lube for the tool...

Big reason is toxicity many oil based lubes are toxic read the MSDS for them you are not supposed to breath them. There are also environmental issues sourcing and disposal. I know some machinist that avoid using cutting oil and cut dry because they worry about the long term effects of exposure to the cutting oils.

With something like coconut oil it works great is non toxic and there are no disposal issues so is better for the environment.

It is more expensive and so probably not for everyone.

[knudsen]

I use bees wax quite a bit, for reasons Allen has expressed, but also it performs very well, cheap and readily available. Also is a great rust inhibitor and does not need to be cleaned up right away. I started using it after reading about it for tapping in Machine Shop Trade Secrets, and it is indeed the best I found for hand tapping and cleanup of the tap is a breeze. I was using the wax stick band saw lube, mostly beeswax, until I burnt a batch of beeswax I was making hand lotion of. Now I use the burnt beeswax, which has a little baby oil in it, for tapping In the winter I use kerosene/beeswax mix for turning. Summer, mostly Castrol Safety Draw. I've also had luck with:

Alcohol
Kerosene
WD40
Crisco (prefer butter flavored)

Want to try bacon grease, but haven't gotten around to making and filtering it. Old timers swear by it. And now, coconut oil. I can just steal that from my wife while she's cooking!

I also make my own because it's fun, which is why I'm out in the shop anyway. Otherwise, I'm just out there making a mess and maybe getting a cool new scar. Hell, as HSM's, nothing we do out there's economical, unless you're getting paid for parts, even then, most probably never recoup the investment, much less their time.

[SSN Vet]

Hell, as HSM's, nothing we do out there's economical, unless you're getting paid for parts, even then, most probably never recoup the investment, much less their time.

Please delete this post ASAP b4 my wife sees it

Why not just get some water soluble oil coolant and mix it in a spray bottle?

Unfortunately, I don't have any kind of containment or drip tray set up and need to be careful about what I have spattering/dribbling all over the place.

[hoss2006]

Unfortunately, I don't have any kind of containment or drip tray set up and need to be careful about what I have spattering/dribbling all over the place.

Well you're going to have the same spattering/dribbling with whatever you squirt on there.
A gallon of synthetic dilutes to 30 gallons or more, enough for years worth of milling for $20.
Companies switched to synthetics to avoid the problems of stagnation and mold growth (and stink) associated with vegetable or animal based coolants.
They may smell good to start but putrefy in the nooks and crannies over time.
Just food for thought.
Hoss

[SSN Vet]

A gallon of synthetic dilutes to 30 gallons or more, enough for years worth of milling for $20.

Hey Hoss... got a recommendation? source? link?

yes... I'm extremely lazy