[Realmseeker]

Has anyone made a dxf of the Thien lid, say for a 5 gallon pail?

I just knocked this together in solidworks. Please excuse the quality, as I a m just starting to learn it.

I got some of the dimensions from around the web for the inside diameter of a pail, I need to go find one and actually measure. So take this as a work in progress.

Again I am still curious if anyone has used Thein's cyclone lid as opposed to a Dust Deputy. I am hoping to start putting together a vacuum system in the next few weeks.

[CarbonKevin]

Hah ! How did I miss that one ? Quality at PA is hit and miss (mostly miss) but at half of $199 a chance worth taking. Thanks.

They had a "web only" special awhile back...even I didn't know about it, and I consider PA to be Mecca...the holy land! My gf somehow knew about it and mentioned it to me.

And yes...quality is definitely questionable at times. I've had two of their heat guns self-destruct in my hand, while running. They do stand behind what they sell, though...I've not had them turn me away when I bring in a broken tool yet!

[CarbonKevin]

Realmseeker - you need to include the assembly file, PLUS the part files in the zip folder. Tried loading your assembly, no parts = empty assembly.

I've learned a bit of a trick recently - if you're sharing parts/assemblies amongst SW users, save the assembly as a STEP file. It can be opened by any version of SW, and saves everything in a single file.

Cheers!

Kevin

[Realmseeker]

Realmseeker - you need to include the assembly file, PLUS the part files in the zip folder. Tried loading your assembly, no parts = empty assembly.

I've learned a bit of a trick recently - if you're sharing parts/assemblies amongst SW users, save the assembly as a STEP file. It can be opened by any version of SW, and saves everything in a single file.

Cheers!

Kevin

BAH! As I said, just figuring this out. Much thanks for the tips. I'll re-upload soon.

[Realmseeker]

Ok hopefully this works now. I put the parts, assembly, and the .step. Thanks again Kevin for the help.

If anyone can post the the inner diameter of a 5 gallon pail at the top, and 3.25" down from the top, I can or someone can update the file.

Sorry I feel like I am hijacking this thread, I am going to start a new thread with my plans on my setup.

Jordan

[cyclestart]

Sorry I feel like I am hijacking this thread, I am going to start a new thread with my plans on my setup.

I didn't consider it a hijack, I'm interested. Here's the link to your thread for those trying to follow along down the road;
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=107483

One comment: A couple of screen shots would help those of us without SolidWorks.

[Realmseeker]

I was trying to be courteous

Here is a bit of a SS. If I may suggest a program:

http://www.edrawingsviewer.com/

Lets you view just about any Cad file type, and is free. You can't manipulate the file, but you can view it from any angle and such.

As you can see the my SW file isn't very robust. Then again, the design isn't very complex.

http://www.cgallery.com/jpthien/cy.htm (main site with link to forum)
http://www.cgallery.com/smf/index.php?topic=284.0 (nice mod)
http://www.cgallery.com/smf/index.php?topic=221.0 (another nice mod)

I haven't found anyone mention using their's on a CNC on their forum, but lots of people mentioning TS, sanders, and planers. What I like about it is that it seems much simpler to build then a Deputy, and seems to work as well.

[stevespo]

I'm with analogman on this one. I've build a number of shoes, but my favorite (so far) is the one that directs router air away from the cut and completely encloses the cutter with a shop vac brush.

I'm using the same design and it's proven quite flexible and effective for cutting primarily flat, sheet goods, shallow relief carvings, etc. For very deep carvings you would need a much longer brush or a different design. Haven't figured that one out yet.

Steve

[CarbonKevin]

This is my definitive dust shoe system.

Consists of two sections. The upper section deflects airflow from the router out to the sides and rear. This is screwed to the underside of the router; it stays on during normal use. A flange (black) is attached to the top, to attach the vacuum hose. Neodymium magnets are epoxied into the 4 holes around the edges prior to installation.

The lower section is the skirted portion. Neodymium magnets are bonded to this section, as well. Brush bristles, vinyl, or other material is attached to the outer face to form the skirt.

This design solves the problem of the router's airflow disrupting the vacuum's suction. Also, using magnets to hold the skirted section in place makes for very easy removal for tool changes, visual positioning, etc. This also means you can have a variety of different skirt lengths on hand to suit different situations.

[analogman]

I like the idea of the magnets for a quick change. In practise how well does it work?

[Dropout]

I like the idea of the magnets for a quick change. In practise how well does it work?

Excellent!

[CarbonKevin]

In my first attempt, it worked out to about .225" of space between the two magnets, which were a bit undersized (.038" dia x .095" thick) This was far too much space, the magnets held...but just barely. I wound up making it work by putting a magnet between the two parts of the dust shoe system, which was able to bridge the gap and hold the shoe in place.

For the latest variant (pictured above), I'll be going to a slightly larger magnet on the top (.038" dia x .24"), and decreasing the gap between magnets to .125" or less. I've already machined the two sections of the shoe, I'll be installing it tonight and I'll report the results this weekend!

[cyclestart]

This is my definitive dust shoe system.

Nice ! What material ? HDPE ?

Also, using magnets to hold the skirted section in place makes for very easy removal for tool changes, visual positioning, etc. This also means you can have a variety of different skirt lengths on hand to suit different situations.

Magnetic tape ?
http://www.custom-magnets.com/magnetic_tape_specs.htm
Enough holding power for a flexible skirt or a brush if it's not to stiff.

[CarbonKevin]

Nice ! What material ? HDPE ?

Magnetic tape ?
http://www.custom-magnets.com/magnetic_tape_specs.htm
Enough holding power for a flexible skirt or a brush if it's not to stiff.

I'm using MDF for the proto, haven't decided what to make the final variant from. Possibly MDF that's been infused with epoxy prior to machining.

I wouldn't use magnetic tape - to compare the relative strengths, the smallest magnets I'm using have a pull strength of 5 lbs each, in a .375" diameter. The strongest tape they list on that site would require 2.5 square inches of tape to achieve the same pull strength. The outdoor adhesive sounds interesting, but so far I've never seen a magnetic tape strip that hasn't started to detach due to adhesive failing.

When you stick two button magnets together, they always want to align in a concentric arrangement. Using two pairs of button magnets, you create two concentric mates, which gives very specific alignment between the top and bottom halves of the vacuum foot.

Tape will attract, but the shape of the magnetic field doesn't force the same concentric alignment. The other issue would be polarity. Button magnets can be flipped to change polarity. Tape can't, because the adhesive is on one side, the magnet on another.

As a side note, I already have to redesign this system, I bloody well forgot to leave access to the collet lock!

[Drools]

I made a simple design for my DS, it seems to work just fine with my Porter Cable router and my Craftsman shopvac. Here if the dxf and a picture.
I used a piece of plastic for the skirt, I will call it plastic because I really do not know what to call it. The shoe itself is made from Trex plastic decking, the Trex machines like a charm and is pretty rugged. There is a 1/8 wide groove machined into the bottom for the skirt.

[cyclestart]

I was thinking of magnetic tape around the outside perimeter of the lower half of the shoe, a way to quick change a variety of brushes.

Here's another 2 piece design;
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8ehFKTjZN4"]YouTube- Dust Shoe Demo[/nomedia]

Kent23 is a cnczone member. Doubt if I can build it for less than $100 worth of material and hassle searching for the parts

[CarbonKevin]

I've done a few modifications and tested my design this past weekend.

I'm using a shop-vac for the vacuum foot with 2-1/2" hose. It pulls a decent amount of air, but the problem was the router's downflow completely overrode the suction of the vacuum. Net result was dust blowing through the skirting, mess everywhere, maybe 15% of the dust made it up the pipe. I had to keep a second shop vac on standby so I could suck up everything left over periodically during a cut job - huge pain in the ass!

The deflector makes a night and day improvement to the situation - I'm going to say 95% of the dust and chips made it up the pipe into the vacuum. I didn't have to do any additional cleanup using my backup shop vac.

I'll be revising the design shortly so that the permanent half can actually bolt to the underside of the router, and allow proper access to the collet lock. I'll post my design once it's done!

[cyclestart]

It pulls a decent amount of air, but the problem was the router's downflow completely overrode the suction of the vacuum. Net result was dust blowing through the skirting, mess everywhere, maybe 15% of the dust made it up the pipe.

The video linked in my last post also mentions that problem. His solution was a small deflector but your idea of exhausting this air completely outside the shoe sounds more effective. My router LED lighting and it's a feature I really hate to give up.

[CarbonKevin]

The video linked in my last post also mentions that problem. His solution was a small deflector but your idea of exhausting this air completely outside the shoe sounds more effective. My router LED lighting and it's a feature I really hate to give up.

What is this LED lighting you speak of? Like, there's an LED that shines down onto the workpiece? If that's so, I would either drill holes into the deflector to allow the light to pass through, at the cost of a bit of air getting into the skirted section, or I would machine the upper from a clear lexan or polycarbonate type material.

Which router are you using? I'll take a peek and see if I can come up with a way of having your LED and, errr...airflow deflection, too.

[cyclestart]

Some of us make pilgrimages to PA, others can't resist the call of Crappy Tire.
(That sentence will confuse our non-canuck friends lol)

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

3 bright LEDs on a 2 1/4" diameter built into the bottom of the router. My eyes are old so the extra light helps a lot.

Edit/ Nothing to do with routers but kind of funny
http://www.theregister.co.uk/2001/07...e_loses_fight/