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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    202

    Painting my X2

    I finally took the time to tear down my X2, lap the ways, clean it up (it was used) and tram everything in. I thought I might as well put a nice clean layer of paint on it since it's in little pieces now and may never be again. I'm considering this:

    http://www.kpg-industrial.com/produc..._enamel_paint/

    It looks like a good candidate for the job. Any of you out there who have undertaken this task feel free to chime in with how you did it and with what type of paint/method. Thanks for any advice you can give!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    313
    Good old Krylon. Mine's stripped too. Last night I was cleaning the castings and found that carb cleaner does a really good job of stripping the factory paint although I don't think I'd use it with the spindle and bearings still in place. I've found body filler as well. When I get to the point of paint, I'll fill the casting defects with quality automotive putty, prime and paint, probably with Krylon. A couple of clearcoats too. I've yet to decide on a color.

    The factory paints the spindle housing with the spindle in place. I haven't decided yet if I will paint and install the spindle or install the spindle and then paint. Probably the latter.
    ~Don

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    202
    Quote Originally Posted by degreaser View Post
    Good old Krylon.
    I'm hesitant to use regular paint again. I used Rustoleum on my 4x6 bandsaw and even the slightest drop/brush against it by some other type of metal chips/scratches the paint. Very disappointed in how it turned out. Never used Krylon to paint shop equipment so I can't comment on it....

    Quote Originally Posted by degreaser View Post
    I've found body filler as well. When I get to the point of paint, I'll fill the casting defects with quality automotive putty, prime and paint, probably with Krylon.
    Wow...you're going all the way with this. I never even though about filling in the defects. I might do that as I have lots of time on my hands.

    Quote Originally Posted by degreaser View Post
    The factory paints the spindle housing with the spindle in place. I haven't decided yet if I will paint and install the spindle or install the spindle and then paint. Probably the latter.
    I haven't decided that either. If you paint yours first, let me know how you do it and how it turns out. Why regular paint though, when epoxy is available and would clearly outlast it? Maybe there's a good reason that I'm missing. I'm planning on painting mine white...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    313
    Quote Originally Posted by Nateg281 View Post
    Wow...you're going all the way with this. I never even though about filling in the defects. I might do that as I have lots of time on my hands.

    I haven't decided that either. If you paint yours first, let me know how you do it and how it turns out. Why regular paint though, when epoxy is available and would clearly outlast it? Maybe there's a good reason that I'm missing. I'm planning on painting mine white...

    I figure I'm going through all this effort on my X2 so it's gotta have a decent paint job that will last awhile. I have some body glaze putty that fills very well and is easy to sand. The size of the defects are pretty small and I didn't see them until I stripped the paint.

    You're probably right on the Epoxy paint. I've never used that particular paint but something more resistant to solvents would be a good idea. Some test strips might be wise to see how it reacts with oil/acetone/gasoline/MEK/alcohol and any other chemicals you use.

    [EDIT] - I just noted the HUGE color selection in that paint. White and Black.....
    [EDIT] - I found blue but from another manufacturer http://rndperformance.com/i-2882838-...-can-each.html
    ~Don

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    202
    I plan on doing some test painting on some old angle I have in the garage. Then I'll subject it to some chemicals, coolant, oil, etc. I'll see how well it cleans up and how durable it is. If I get around to the tests before you paint yours, I'll let you know how it turns out. By the way, where did you get your putty/filler you're going to use?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    313
    I think I got it at Kragen Auto although it could have been Autozone. It has the consistency of thin toothpaste, cleans up with acetone. It won't fill gaps like the bondo filler but does a good job on surface imperfections.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails glazing_putty.jpg  
    ~Don

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    91
    I'm currently building a flood coolant enclosure for my X2, and on one side it has a table for my monitor, keyboard, and mouse. I used two 3/4 pieces of MDF glued together and finished it with West Systems Epoxy, with graphite mixed in. It turned out nice and very hard, you would never believe it was made of MDF.

    I remember reading an article about mixing other pigments in epoxy. With fillers it usually sands really well, so you can get anything from a gloss to mat finish.

    Epoxy tends to have a little plasticity to it, so it can take bumps easily, and it might provide some dampening.

    The only problem I ran into was lack of viscosity. It is a little on the thick side with the graphite mixed in, and ended up showing brush strokes. So I ended up sanding it down smooth.

    But it looks like a million bucks. I will get some pics up of my enclosure when it is finished.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    202
    Another vote for Epoxy. I wonder how good the spray stuff is? Anyone out there ever use it?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    91
    If you really want to go all out, try looking for some of the antifouling stuff used on boats with epoxy. If it can withstand sea water, I doubt you'll find anything in a normal machining environment that would harm it.

    Though a milling machine with barnacles on it does paint quite a picture...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    202
    Quote Originally Posted by thudson View Post
    If you really want to go all out, try looking for some of the antifouling stuff used on boats with epoxy. If it can withstand sea water, I doubt you'll find anything in a normal machining environment that would harm it.

    Though a milling machine with barnacles on it does paint quite a picture...
    Interesting : ) Any idea where a guy could get a quart of epoxy paint? I don't need a gallon and the places around here seem only to sell in that quantity.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    91
    Quote Originally Posted by Nateg281 View Post
    Interesting : ) Any idea where a guy could get a quart of epoxy paint? I don't need a gallon and the places around here seem only to sell in that quantity.
    I get it locally at Fisheries Supply (http://www.fisheriessupply.com/), or West Marine (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...11151_10001_-1).

    You can order online from either of these, but check shipping costs.

    You also want to be careful and not get the stuff on you, because it can cause an allergic reaction. But as long as you use latex or nitrile gloves, and a dust mask when sanding, it is actually pretty nice to work with. No odor or harmful fumes. There are two different hardeners, a slow and fast. Slow for higher temperatures, fast in the winter. You could probably get away with fast unless your temps are above eighty.

    Though once you get experience with working with it, you'll find all kinds of uses and will eventually end up buying by the gallon.

    I've been toying with the idea of making the drain pan of my enclosure out of epoxy granite, to reduce vibrations.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    202
    Quote Originally Posted by thudson View Post
    I get it locally at Fisheries Supply (http://www.fisheriessupply.com/), or West Marine (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...11151_10001_-1).

    You can order online from either of these, but check shipping costs.

    You also want to be careful and not get the stuff on you, because it can cause an allergic reaction. But as long as you use latex or nitrile gloves, and a dust mask when sanding, it is actually pretty nice to work with. No odor or harmful fumes. There are two different hardeners, a slow and fast. Slow for higher temperatures, fast in the winter. You could probably get away with fast unless your temps are above eighty.

    Though once you get experience with working with it, you'll find all kinds of uses and will eventually end up buying by the gallon.

    I've been toying with the idea of making the drain pan of my enclosure out of epoxy granite, to reduce vibrations.
    Wow...that's really cool stuff. I might have to check that out or see if I can find something like it locally. Hmmm...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    313
    Another composite/epoxy supplier is http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html. Their products are a fair bit cheaper than West Systems. I hadn't thought about pigments.
    ~Don

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    484
    Isn't garage floor paint an epoxy paint? It sure is durable... and you may be able to find it at Home Despot.

    You may only be able to get grey and tan, though.
    Q: How many tools does it take before a simple task becomes a project?
    A: Just one. I'm the Tool that turns a simple task in to a project.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by TroyO View Post
    Isn't garage floor paint an epoxy paint? It sure is durable... and you may be able to find it at Home Despot.

    You may only be able to get grey and tan, though.
    Yeah, its the same thing. I looked into it and those are the only colors I could find.

    I found the article on adding pigments:

    http://www.westsystem.com/ss/adding-pigments-to-epoxy/

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    91
    Quote Originally Posted by degreaser View Post
    Another composite/epoxy supplier is http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html. Their products are a fair bit cheaper than West Systems. I hadn't thought about pigments.
    That's definitely a lot cheaper. Have you used their products?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    202

    Paint test

    So I think I've found the paint I'm going to use. I'm in the process of doing some durability tests right now. I'll keep you all posted as to my results should anyone care to follow in my footsteps.

    The paint I'm testing is this:

    http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

    So far I've tried a test on bare metal that I heavily sanded and it dried rock hard with a high gloss and very smooth finish. It's available in a can for those traditionalists out there who prefer to use a brush. My next test is to try it on the other side of my plate steel after I put on a layer of bondo and sand it. I'm not sure how it will adhere so stay tuned and I'll let you all know....pics to follow as well.....

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    313
    Quote Originally Posted by thudson View Post
    That's definitely a lot cheaper. Have you used their products?
    Yes. They work great. I'm getting ready to do some layups now that the weather has warmed.
    ~Don

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    313
    Quote Originally Posted by Nateg281 View Post

    So far I've tried a test on bare metal that I heavily sanded and it dried rock hard with a high gloss and very smooth finish. It's available in a can for those traditionalists out there who prefer to use a brush. My next test is to try it on the other side of my plate steel after I put on a layer of bondo and sand it. I'm not sure how it will adhere so stay tuned and I'll let you all know....pics to follow as well.....
    Sounds great!

    Are you using the two part bondo or the glazing putty?

    I saw that stuff yesterday. They also had black and white. Ace Hardware has similar stuff but in a store brand. Same colors. Summit Racing has a few more colors of epoxy paint. I'm going to give their local retail store a call next week to see if they stock it. I don't understand why so few colors are produced and why it's so difficult to find this stuff. Probably our wonderful EPA protecting us from ourselves...

    I've started stripping my base. I got some of the paint off but I think I'll need to use a wire wheel to clean it thorougly. Lots of bondo too.
    ~Don

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    446
    Im a commercial painter by trade.
    If I were to paint my mill Ide use a oil base paint. Or DTM (direct to metal)
    Its what I use on all metal .
    If you talk to one of the guys at glidden/icu , sherwin williams ect . They help you find whats right for you.
    Ide stay away from cheap rattle can paints.

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